I'll try to get a pic up. End of the O2 now hits the fixed shift rod ever so slightly. Makes a bit of noise at idle, and I'd like to fix it.

Sp00m 4-2-1, Carsound (I'll get the number, but ITR one), and Mugen Twinloop. Fits under the car perfectly - not too high or too low, and perfect fore/aft position.

:edit: This is vs the stock cat/header/catback O2 sensor fitment. It is the the rubber sheath for the rear O2 sensor wires, and the very end of the metal O2 sensor body that is so close.


Modified by Ill at 2:36 PM 7/10/2004

 

That is not normal.

 

How close should it be? This is worrisome. Having just done the clutch at the same time, and replaced the lower motor mounts, I'm thinking possible wear on the rear motor mount, something bent, or the exhuast mis-aligned. Everything drives perfectly.

<Sigh> I guess I'll get the carsound #.

My rear O2 (98R) has a blue grommit for the hole into the underbelly. Is this the stock color? Maybe it's not the stock O2.

This is a secondhand R, and the former owner was a dufus and did some strange mods to the exhaust.


Modified by Ill at 10:28 AM 8/4/2004

 

Not normal, the bung was welded into the wrong spot. I had the same problem w/ my 2nd Carsound Cat (first broke after a couple hundred miles), except I couldn't even get the car into fifth or reverse because of the o2 sensor. Return it.

 

I have the same problem in a way. My bung was welded on an angle facing upwards. I installed it in April and only drove it about 6 miles, back and forth from emissions testing and noticed the noise. I think I'm gonna have to send it back to Hytech to get fixed. Its a pretty loud rattling/thud noise.

I actually thought about this situation the second I read his post.

 

Thanks! Damn I love the Internet and HT!

Anyone know about my stock O2. Is the grommit blue on yours?

 

My o2 was hitting the bottom of the floorpan with my Carsound. I had to hammer in the floor pan some to get enough clearance. They need to move the o2 hole to the side a bit or sink the o2 bung lower into the cat to give some clearance.

Good luck with your problem. At least you know you're not the only one that had trouble with the Carsound o2 bung location.

 

Does it look something like this?



Its on a 2000 GSR but its a Carsound cat. I don't have problems getting it into gear but it vibrates pretty bad. Haven't got around to calling IPS Racing (where I got it from) to see what they say.

 

Yep, that's what it looks like. Hits the fixed shift rod & vibrates. Does not affect getting it into gear. Mine is tolerable, but still. Sounds like lots of problems with Carsound cats, O2 bung placement off being just one.

 

It's only been on the car for maybe a week and I hardly drive it to work. If I get the chance this week I'm going to give them a call and see what they can do. Is yours hitting about the same?

 

Yes, if that's the fixed shift rod in the pic, then mine hits exactly the same. 98 USDM R. However I also have a Mugen Twinloop exhaust. However I think that fits very well and very much like stock. Therefore, with the problems others have had, I think it's the cat.

Please let me know what Dave says. I may need to return mine also.


Modified by Ill at 9:55 AM 8/4/2004

 

I just installed my high flow cat, and i have the same problem. Did you ever find a way to resolve the problem?

 

damn.. i have exact same problem.

but i dont have a car sound cat.

i fugging hate it when it makes that sound

 

slighty ot, but what's the best method of removing that O2 sensor? any tips or tricks? im planning on replacing my dead cat. TIA!

 

Hi,

They make special sockets for O2 sensors that have a cut-out on the side to lead the wires out without breaking them. Some of the sockets are better than others due to placement of the wire slot and the heat treating. I know- 'cuz I own three of them, two were too 'springy' to work.

Have you guys tried slightly rotating the cat so the O2 sensor doesn't hit?

John

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by R1525 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">slighty ot, but what's the best method of removing that O2 sensor? any tips or tricks? im planning on replacing my dead cat. TIA!</TD></TR></TABLE>

wrench?

but yeah, they do make special sockets..

 

Yeah, the O2 should definately not hit the shift linkage.

for whoever designed this not test fitting before shipping to people. Although I am sure it will get fixed :-)

 

i tried using a 22mm open ended wrench but it wasnt an exact fit. used liquid wrench too. the O2 bolt started to strip a little b/c the 22mm didnt fit perfectly. ill go and grab a O2 socket and try that. i also found that heating it up might help as well. THANKS!!

if it helps any, i currently have a 53006 carsound cat i think and dont have any problems. this was the old adrian teo cats. ive since then purchased a 93506 carsound from smsp and hopefully dont run into this problem. sounds like bung placement problems to me.


Modified by R1525 at 9:50 AM 8/4/2004


Modified by R1525 at 9:53 AM 8/4/2004

 

No, never figured out how to take care of it. Maybe this weekend.

ShuaiGuy - What cat do you have, Catco?

I can't see how to rotate the cat to get clearance. The catback flange and bolts seem to prevent this. You could maybe get 1 degree of rotation, but that's not nearly enough.

It does seem to fit like a$$, and it kind of pissors me off. The noises are getting so irritating, and with all these complaints about the same thing, not to mention some people's innards rattling and coming apart, that I'm feeling ready to dump it. The cat exhuast note seems really loud inside the car too. I'm going to call Dave and see what's up. If the bung was just 5 deg either way, it would fit fine. I don't think this is an ITR-specific fitment, just ITR compatible length and flanges.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by R1525 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">slighty ot, but what's the best method of removing that O2 sensor? any tips or tricks? im planning on replacing my dead cat. TIA!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Autozoned has an O2 socket ('wrench') kit for rent for free that works great. Pay the deposit (like $20), and get it back in 24-48 hours and pay nothing. Hardended sockets with slots for the wires in a couple of sizes. Does not flex.

You could also use a giant size wrench or crescent wrench. Liquid Wrench or catalytic penetrant too, if necessary. I wouldn't soak it too much with the stuff unless you have to tho, as I could see the chemicals maybe damaging the sensor element.

Use anti-seize (not too much!) on the threads when you put it back in in case you ever have to remove it again.

 

yo need to drill the o2 bunge off to the side...check were your stock cat bunge is drilled

 

My cat is a car sound. I got it from Dave also. No luck so far. I ended up taking it off as a temporary fix.

 

Mine does the same thing but doesn't rattle.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HondaRcB &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Mine does the same thing but doesn't rattle.</TD></TR></TABLE>

amen..

the place that installed my kteller kit, didn't account for tilting the cat @an angle.

I have to take it back and have them readjust it.

 

I had the same exact problem like two years ago an no one posted any replies.

There are two ways to get rid of the rattle without replacing the catylitic converter.
1) This was my first idea, wrap the fixed shifter shaft with something soft. I wrapped the fixed shaft with wet suit material and use zip ties to hold the material around the shaft. I know it sounds shady but it actually worked for like two years

2) The second fix to this problem is remove the secondary o2 sensor since it doesn't effect performance, it only monitors the cat. and throws a code if your cat. isn't working properly. You can get one of those o2 boxes that trick the ecu into thinking the o2 sensor is reading proper voltage. What I did was just got an jdm motor and ecu and the jdm ecu doesn't looking for a secondary o2 so problem solved.

ips has slow server took them like 1 year to send my zeals and like 5 months for my car sound cat.

 

It was suggested to change the rear cat flange bolts to 3/8 (smaller). This would give a little room in the rear flange holes to rotate the cat slightly. Prolly have to change the front bolts also.

Installing my OBD1 setup would also rectify the situation, by eliminating the sensor. To bad I can't afford the ECU right now.

Someone also just posted a nice rear O2 fooler (eliminator) circuit / instructions on the ITR board last week. Easy to make and gives a radio shack parts list. Should fit up inside the floor pan hole too.

Anyone know if the rear O2 is the same as the front? (Maybe not heated?) My front is going, it would be nice to be able to use the rear O2 to replace the front if it's eliminated.


Seems like the real fix here is in manufacturing. Just move the cat bung a bit (deeper or more to the side), or twist the flanges 5 degrees upon welding, so the cat is at a slight angle, giving the O2 a little more room in the chassis. I think the cat bungs come factory welded tho, and it's just the flanges and tube length that SMSP builds on. Cocking the cat at an angle could be sketchy for ground clearance tho.