I own a 2000 ITR with suspension mods and Comptech replacement air filter. This is my Christmas shopping list for the engine mods. What are your opinions of this combo. Thanks.

DC S.S. JDM 4-1 header
2.5" Random Cat. (stock after the cat.)
Toda B cams
Toda cam gears
Toda springs
Titan. retainers
Toda 81.5 mm pistons
Toda 1 mm head gasket
Apexi a-vfc
fuel pressure reg.
Godspeed custom ecu OBD I
and of course dyno tuning.

This set-up will give a 12:1 compression.

What do you think? Also, would you think I'll need larger injectors, if so what size?

 

a lot of $$$$$$$$$!!

 

ditch the stock exhaust if you're getting cams.

 

****, they may not get any white christmas' down in florida
but at least they get green ones- the next best color


[Modified by BlueR, 1:55 PM 11/21/2001]

 

I'd look for somethign other than DC headers. JDM OEM headers are better but not as light. Weight savings are offset by the performance.

 

yeah..i agree with bpr...get a good exhaust

 

Random Tech cats tend to break apart. Go with a test pipe or Carsound or Catco free flow cat and get an aftermarket exhaust for sure.

 

get a spoon test pipe i have one for $210. also if you are putting close to 200 whp, you will want 310cc injectors.

 

DC S.S. JDM 4-1 header - Not a bad piece but like others have said you might want to go with the JDM Honda ITR 4-1 header

2.5" Random Cat. (stock after the cat.) Random Tech isnt that great and I dont believe they provide a bolt on 2.5" cat for this setup, Go with a Car Sound cat that is a bolt in unit (from yours truly )

Toda B cams - Good choice

Toda cam gears - again good

Toda springs -

Titan. retainers - Ferrea Retainers by far the best quality retainers I have seen.

Toda 81.5 mm pistons - I would save the money and just go with the CTR Pistons and spend the money you saved on some eagle rods and balancing of the pistons, rods and crank.

Toda 1 mm head gasket - Its the same as a stock gasket, Dont bother spending the extra $$

Apexi VAFC - Good choice but As i notice you are also looking to convert to OBD1 and want to have a chipped ecu (guessing you want a raised rev limit) I would say save the money of buying and installing the vafc, plus the price of the ecu and chip, and Just get a Power FC, which wont require anything but plugging it in. Note You will need an ECU adapter harness, But you'd need that with your obd1 ecu anyways.

fuel pressure reg. - Many good choices out there I wouldnt go with the B&M though

Godspeed custom ecu OBD I - You mean a YOSHIO chipped ECU - Not bad programs but they run a bit rich, and you dont want to run to rich when your breaking in the new piston rings, Again better off going with the Power FC

and of course dyno tuning.

Injectors - I would suggest some RC 310cc Injectors

Exhaust - I would say any free flowing exhaust will work for you, 5Zigen Fireball would be my choice, or maybe an Apexi N1

If your interested give me a call Monday and we can set up a nice package deal and get everything to you before Christmas

 

true... but the setup sounds good

 

no that's not a very good setup at all...I think when you get some of it, you have to give some to me

nice stuff...hope santa's good to you this year...

 

nice, mike..."The Bartender"...how'd those Red Deaths work out? did you try my recipe too?

 

I was considering the Spoon test pipe but I do not want to deal with any check engine lights. But if I am going with an OBD I ecu I will not have to worry about that. Also, someone told me that the Spoon test pipe is not a direct bolt on, that the USDM ITR B-pipe is shorter or something like that. What's your experience. $210 is retail price, are you a dealer?

 

false.

 

Spoon Test Pipe Will Not fit a USDM ITR B Pipe its about 5" to short
Price on one is $165.
Also there isn't an O2 Bung on the pipe, just a bung for the heating sensor, So a new bung would have to be installed, But a Power FC is OBD1 So you could just use the block off bolt on the bung and leave out the 2nd O2 sensor.

There were a few recipes being made, I think Brian liked his best when we ran out of OJ

 

So, what is suggested to make up the 5" gap?

 

I had very bad luck with the last programmable computer on my GSR. It was so bad I had to sell the car, it was impracticable to drive anymore. I would have to hope to get the best tuner to program the Apexi PC. I would have kept my GSR if it was not for that damm computer. I really don't even want to replace the ITR one but running the higher compression, the stock ECU I don't think will due the job. Toda racing deals with Godspeed and recommended me to them and since Godspeed chips the ECU according the equipment I have and knows the tolerances of the Toda cams. I feel this is the way to go.

 

You can either get a JDM Length Exhaust system (same as a USDM GSR's) or you can make an extension piece to mate between the test pipe and B pipe

But Austin has a dyno sheet comparing his car sound cat Vs a test pipe on his ITR with Spec B's and the test pipe did Not make any considerable gains So in my opinion its not worth it as it wont make any extra Hp and it would pollute the enviroment.

 

I can easily PreProgram the FC for your setup, and I can reccomend someone in FL that can fine tune it.

Ok I want to clear some of this up here.
Its AKH Trading (Todas official Importer to N. America) not Toda Racing, I Myself and also Dave at R&D both deal with AKH Along with about 9 other dealers of theirs across the USA.

Godspeed is Dan Ponze, Dan Does NOT Chip the ECU's, Yoshio of Japanese Automotive does ( http://www.japanese-auto.com/ ) Im not even going to get into Dan's "Shop". When Yoshio Chips the ECU's (Granted he does a good job) They are not quite on the money and run rich As its tough to come up with an ECU that is specified for a vehicle, without said vehicle being on the dyno in front of you.

Trust me and save yourself some aggravation and get the FC which has Much much more in ways of tunability.

 

So what is the difference between the DC JDM and ITR JDM header. I know the DC must be lighter and is less expensive also. They both have the 2.5" collector and both are 4-1 type. So the only difference must be pipe dia. and/or length. Anything I missed?

 

I realize the FC is more tunable but couldn't I use the Apexi V-AFC to lean it out. The thing is, how are you going to preprogram the FC without my car, the same as with the plug & play ECU. Then I have to go to another person to install and fine tune the car. Correct me if I am wrong but the car has to be rewired with the FC and then do numerous dyno runs to get it working correctly. With my last car, when the weather changed a bit the car ran differently (poorly) and the program does not compensate for these atmospheric changes. If it gets colder how does the FC compensate for these changes. I want something I do not have to mess with.

 

I'm curious, how muchis the Power FC?

 

Exactly what I think, how can you pre-program the FC without having the car in front of you on a dyno. If you can pre-program the FC, I would assume Yoshio can do a better job program a chip for his set up. Afterall, he has more experience on ECU chip than most of us here (If no all). But I guess with the FC, you can always fine tune it yourself later on.

But then it is not easy for an average person to program the FC if that person don't have any experience on ECU program before. I would recommend you to get the FC only if you have someone local that know their **** and able to tune it for you.

BTW, did anyone know if any body in Vancouver know how to tune with the Power FC?

 

Power FC is $1350 with Commander unit, Adapter harness for 00-01 ITR's is $225
Install is as easy as unplugging your stock ecu plugging in the adapter harness and plugging that into the FC.

I can preprogram the FC with a setup close to yours, however Im not going to argue back and forth, Im just trying to help you get the right parts, which will be upgradeable in the future.

 

Here If you want further proof, Check out the post here https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=91933