Edit: Disclaimer, These are only my personal opinions based on personal use....



Starting from left to right.

1. Mobil 1 5W-30
I used to use this oil exclusively in the tri-synthetic formula. It worked great but since the switch to super syn, my motor started burning oil like crazy. I probably will only use in the winter for the street. It does get the best fuel economy of the oils I have recently used.

2. Mobil 1 0W-40
I tried this oil a month ago. This was even worse. Burned up faster than the above. Will definitely not use this one again. My mechanic told me the same thing happened to him.

3. Motul 8100 X-cess 10W40 in 4100 bottle
Since my mechanic in Toronto buys this oil in bulk I needed a container to carry some back to Toronto. Out comes a used 4100 bottle to hold the oil. It turns out I did not need to top off my oil. The drive from Toronto to Long Island, NY is about 600 miles and I usually will burn at minimum a quart with Mobil 1 5W30. I did not burn any with the Motul . Fuel economy is slightly lower than the Mobil 1. If I can find a local dealer for this oil I would use it over anything else! Since I don't know of any local dealers, I did some research and purchased the below for my next oil changed.

4. Castrol 0W-30 German Oil
This is the so much hyped oil that everyone on oil drop seems to be buying. Just picked up some today from Autozone, 6 for $30 on sale. I hear it is green, I guess it will match my car. Hopefully it is just as good as the Motul, it definitely is cheaper.

5. Motul 300V 10W-40
I use this oil when I go to do HPDE's. This oil burns the least of all the ones I have tried. It is one of the most expensive oils I have used but works great! The car just seems to run better with it but it is so expensive to use on the street since I drive so many miles a year.


Here is another pic of other oils I use. Genuine Honda Power Steering Fluid and transmission fluid. Motul RBF 600 brake fluid. Not an oil but it was there, Motul Fuel system cleaner to clean those injectors.

Someone in Long Island must know of a local Motul dealer so that I can pick up these oils at a reasonable cost or I just might have to stock up next time I am in Toronto. The prices in Canada seem to be much cheaper than any price I have seen advertised online.






Modified by AW at 10:15 PM 7/8/2004

 

Uhhh H'mm... Nice Pics?


[waiting for Ken and RJ to join the festivities]


Fyi, this isn't a technical review, more your loose opinion than anything else.

Have you had any of your oils tested by a lab?

 

I have known for awhile now that I am going to start using either the German Castrol or the Motul 8100 on my next change - I just don't know which yet.

Now, what to do with all that Mobil1 5w-30 in my garage...

 

Sorry 1GreyTeg, added disclaimer to beginning of post. I have not had any oil analysis done. Just my opinion based on usage. I am not making any claims on protection performance, only how much burning I experience as well as fuel economy noticed. This is based on a minimum of 2 oil changes per brand of oil, with 3000 miles between changes. Full engine flush with Motul engine flush between Mobil 1 5W-30, 0W-40 and Motul 8100 change. No flush when using 300V as that was used mainly last year.

AW

 

Coolio.... won't be trying that Mobil 0W40 afterall.

I burn quite a bit of Mobil1 5W30 and Castrol Syntec 5W30. Switched to Castrol Syntec 10W30 and it burns a bit less but still burns too much for my liking. Tried Castrol GTX 10W30 and it pretty much burned off like the Mobil1 5W30. Now running Mobil1 10W30 Supersyn, 500km on the oil. Next to try are Amsoil and if I can find it Syntec 0W30.

If you don't mind... who's your mechanic and what kind of work do you get done?

 

I used to go to Gilman Auto in Scarborough before I moved to Long Island. I still visit them when I go back. They are a Motul distributor so they buy Motul by the barrel. Most of my maintenance and performance add ons were done there. Now I am stuck doing everything myself here. If you need a honest mechanic I would go there. They do everything except for machine shop work which they send out.

From what I have read, the Mobil 1 truck oil, 5W-40 seems to be a good choice and is available in Toronto. I don't think I ever saw the Castrol German oil sold anywhere. Amsoil or Redline are another good choice. They are available at Canadian Tire for around $10 to $12 Cdn a bottle.

AW

 

The interesting thing is that the on the mobil brand you used 5W30, 0W40 and on the other brands motul 8100K, motul 300V you use 10W40? the viscosities are different as the motul is thicker than the mobil, if you are going to compare brands at least compare the same viscosities. thicker oil will not burn off like the thinner oil because it cannot lubricate like the thinner oils can in a B18C5, thinner oil is better in this application. 10W40 is way to thick for a B18C5 the thickest that should be put in is 10W30, but like you said this is your opinion, and to each thier own.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1GreyTeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Have you had any of your oils tested by a lab?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats the only way to tell if an oil is good or not.
Whether or not an oil gets used by the engine like M1 does sometimes doesnt really mean anything.

 

Correct, my analysis is very unscientific. I was not able to use the same grade because Mobil 1 does not make a 10W-40 weight oil that is readily available. I switched to 10W-40 to reduce the amount of oil burning when I drive alot at high rpm.

 

Again I am not claiming that one oil is better at protection over another. Only how much it burns. I guess I am tired of topping the oil off so often. I assumed that the amount of oil testing that has been done by people here and on the oildrop website already is a good indication on how good each oil works at protecting the motor. From what I have read on there all the oils I have used are true synthetics and do a good job of protecting the motor. My main views were in regards to how much oil burns off.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jond &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Thats the only way to tell if an oil is good or not.
Whether or not an oil gets used by the engine like M1 does sometimes doesnt really mean anything.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

how about redline oils?
any plan on using it?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Gerhard_001 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">10W40 is way to thick for a B18C5 the thickest that should be put in is 10W30, but like you said this is your opinion, and to each thier own.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Actually Honda (JPN) recommends a 5w40 full synthetic oil (called Ultra Gold) for Type Rs

 

Amazing how people come in here and listen to a guy that doesnt even own an ITR and immediately say "up, wont be trying that one! this dude says it sucks!".

Flipping around to a billion viscosities and saying "bah motul is best" is just plain stupid.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Gerhard_001 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you are going to compare brands at least compare the same viscosities. </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

I use Pennzoil Full Synthetic in my ITR and the pennzoil is freaking great!

i hate mob 1

 

You should try and find Oil called Royal Purple, and Red line those are some of the best, better than castrol, moble 1, etc. I just put in Royal purple in my car and am impressed

 

MOTUL

Plus it smells good

 

Motul 300V 10W-40 every time for me.

 

I am running a ITR motor so I guess my comments should apply. The other point I was trying to do with this post is to show my findings with the various oils and how they did or did not burn in my motor. They are all good quality oils. I have always been aware that most VTEC motors burn oil and wanted to provide my personal experience with the various oils. Again I would have tried 10W40 Mobil1 if they made one. I am not against Mobil1. I have used M1 for the past 10 years but have changed because I don't want to keep filling the oil as often. I was using it in my BMW and it worked fine with no oil usage.

Mods, please lock this thread so that it does not upset anyone else. My only purpose was to share some of my experience with the various types of oils. Even if they were not the same viscosity.

For note I have also used 10W40 in Castrol Syntec and it burned as bad as M1.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KOALA YUMMIES &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Amazing how people come in here and listen to a guy that doesnt even own an ITR and immediately say "up, wont be trying that one! this dude says it sucks!".

Flipping around to a billion viscosities and saying "bah motul is best" is just plain stupid.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

[QUOTE=AW]
The drive from Toronto to Long Island, NY is about 600 miles and I usually will burn at minimum a quart with Mobil 1 5W30. [/QUOTE=AW]

You burn a quart every 600 miles at minimum? Thats ridiculous. So assume if you change your oil every 3k, that means when you were using Mobil 1 you had to add 5 quarts between oil changes. Theres something wrong with your engine not the oil.

 

how can you tell if the castrol syntec you buy is the "german" stuff or the domestic stuff? all the castrol syntecs i see at my local autozone all look the same

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98R-1144 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how can you tell if the castrol syntec you buy is the "german" stuff or the domestic stuff? all the castrol syntecs i see at my local autozone all look the same </TD></TR></TABLE>

It will say "Made in Germany" on the back label. The German castrol is only available in 0w30.

 

Does anyone have any experience or more info on the German castrol 0w30 oil? I use this oil and am pretty satisfied with it, it doesn't burn at all.

 

I'm using Amsoil 5w30. It burned a bit before the first filter change at the 6mos mark (with only about 4800 miles) but has burned barely any since then. I did an oil analysis so feel free to comment. FYI: I have a '99 B18cSpecR in my GSR.



I am coming up on 12mos on the same oil and when I change my oil and filter I will do another analysis. Remember Amsoil recommends a filter change at 12.5k miles or 6 mos and a filter and oil change at 25k miles or 12 mos.

 

good post . any discussion on motor oils is a good even if your findings are unscientific.

the viscosity on the front of the bottle doesnt matter. redline 5w-20 is thicker than mobil 5w-30 at 150C. so to say that all 30wts. are thicker than all 20wts. would be a misleading statement b/c i can prove than a 20wt. can be thicker than a 30wt.

theoretically, you should see less oil consumpion and less mpg with redline 5w-20 than mobil1 5w-30.

castrol syntec 10w-40 is thinner than mobil1 0w-40 at 100C but the castrol 10w-40 has a higher hths (3.8 vs. 3.6) so it has a higher viscosity at 150C. this means that at some point between 100C and 150C, mobil1 0w-40 becomes thinner than castrol syntec 10w-40.

there is a difference of 1 micrometer film thickness between the sae viscosity grades. a 40wt. oil is 1 micrometer thicker than a 30wt. oil. a difference of 1 micrometer is not enough to make a statement like "10W40 is way to thick for a B18C5 the thickest that should be put in is 10W30".

oil with a higher hths number will has a thicker film at higher temps.

another good quote:
"The amount of oil flowing into the rod and main bearings has to remain at a high enough rate to maintain a film thick enough to "float" the journal so there is no contact between the bearing and the journal. As the oil temperature and/or bearing speed rise, the flow rate away from the bearing increases. In an automotive engine the top con-rod bearing and bottom main bearing is loaded during the power stroke. The force on the bearings push the oil out of the clearance area. If the oil is too thin, the pressure too high, or a combination of a lot of variables, all of the oil will be pushed out and the bearing will fail. The oil supply to the bearing has to keep up with demand, which rises with RPM, journal size, and lubricant temperature.
Now if you can imagine if at 5,000 rpm with the oil temperature very high, there is just enough oil flow into the clearance area to prevent a bearing failure, the following will cause a engine failure:
1. A further increase in lubricant temperature, which increases the flow rate out of the bearing's clearance area.
2. Oil supply problems caused by pump cavitation , lubricant foaming, return to sump delay ect.
3. An increase in engine speed which pumps the lubricant out of the clearance area more times per second." -userfriendly, bitog.