I think I need to start over with the NSX guys...
First off, id like to apologize for my posts in the NSX pop ups or not thread. Silly and juvinille. I look like a ricer.
Second is that I am looking at a 1992 White NSX with 34K on the odo. The dealership wants 34Gs for it. 1$ for each mile on it!!! The car looks good, drives good as well. Is the 34 they want for it too much? Only reason im looking at a dealership is so that I can finance it off in 5 years. I have a 2K Type R now and want to hold on to it as a daily driver for rainy days and the winter. But i am considering selling it for the NSX if i decide a beater is more apropriate instead.
After I get my hads on the car, where is the best place to start the mods? I wanted to put the bigger motor in it since its the 3.0L. But ive heard i can get some serious power from the 3.0.
I thought I saw a 6th gear kit from comptech for the older cars? Does it exist? How does it work? If at all? Would it be worth it?
Second is that I am looking at a 1992 White NSX with 34K on the odo. The dealership wants 34Gs for it. 1$ for each mile on it!!! The car looks good, drives good as well. Is the 34 they want for it too much? Only reason im looking at a dealership is so that I can finance it off in 5 years. I have a 2K Type R now and want to hold on to it as a daily driver for rainy days and the winter. But i am considering selling it for the NSX if i decide a beater is more apropriate instead.
After I get my hads on the car, where is the best place to start the mods? I wanted to put the bigger motor in it since its the 3.0L. But ive heard i can get some serious power from the 3.0.
I thought I saw a 6th gear kit from comptech for the older cars? Does it exist? How does it work? If at all? Would it be worth it?
Second is that I am looking at a 1992 White NSX with 34K on the odo. The dealership wants 34Gs for it. 1$ for each mile on it!!!

Is the 34 they want for it too much?
If you haven't already done so, you probably ought to look through the NSX FAQ, including the sections under the "Troubleshooting" heading. Most of these problems are minor or infrequent. In particular, check out the section for "Transmission (including Snap Ring)", a serious problem which afflicts most of the '92's.
After I get my hads on the car, where is the best place to start the mods?
I wanted to put the bigger motor in it since its the 3.0L. But ive heard i can get some serious power from the 3.0.
I thought I saw a 6th gear kit from comptech for the older cars? Does it exist? How does it work? If at all? Would it be worth it?
Don't forget to join the NSX Club of America.
Good luck.
[Modified by nsxtcjr, 3:12 PM 11/21/2001]
thats not a bad price diddy. my old boss is selling his for 37K its a 94 i believe.i think it has about the same milage as the 92 your looking at. not a bad price at all. but then again its a dealer...so talk down the price!!
[Modified by JunkeeCrx, 9:55 AM 11/21/2001]
[Modified by JunkeeCrx, 9:55 AM 11/21/2001]
Here's a list of things you definitely want to check:
1) does the AC blow cold, and does the compressor make noise (flip it on and off and listen). Check both driver's and passenger's sides for even air temp
2) make sure both power windows work smoothly.
3) make sure the stereo works
4) appraise the condition of the seats, and general condition of the interior
5) open doors, trunk, hood, engine bay glass, and look at all the bolts that mount the body panels, looking for evidence of whether they've been turned (indicating replacement). Not necessarily a big deal, especially if you're buy the car for keeps and to drive and enjoy it, but it could be a point to bargain the price on.
6) tires, get on your hands and knees and look at the inside edges. Just to make sure you're not gonna have to buy new ones right away
7) see if there's water in the tail lights
8) flip the sun visors around and look for places where the seams busted open
9) flip up the trunk matt and make sure the whole toolkit is there. There should be a screwdriver, scissor jack, compressor, and pressure gauge. I might have forgotten something.
10) look at the car in good light from various angles to get an idea of how many swirl marks and such there are, and whether there's any weirdness that could be attributed to a repaired ding.
11) of course, get the tranny number and see if it's in the snap ring range. I'd recommend writing the range down and bringing it with you, just to save time.
12) find out when the clutch was last replaced.
There's other things I've overlooked, I'm sure, but if you cover all those bases, you should be able to be reasonably confident you're getting a pretty solid car. And really, none of the things on the list would be reasons to not by the car, as long as you can get them to reduce the price accordingly. If there's something wrong with the A/C (even if it's just not blowing cold) get them to come down a grand, as there are some common leak-causing failures that are pricey to fix. If the compressor makes noise, get them to come down 2 or 3 grand, as it can get really expensive really fast, especially if you have to go to a dealer (as opposed to a good independant place).
As for where to start on mods.... Just leave it alone and get used to it for a while. You'll prolly find it's very strange to go from the Type-R to the NSX, and then back to the Type-R, because of differences in seating position (I had a GS-R when I got my NSX). After that, the first mods you'll prolly want to make, if you're into sound, are a Cantrell Concepts intake duct (you can get it at http://www.scienceofspeed.com) and a new exhaust, because the stock NSX is just too damn quiet.
Used exhausts go up for sale pretty often, might grab one of those. The exhaust won't give you a noticeable power increase, though. After that, you might want to get headers. science of speed has the best price on DC Sports headers, which I have in my car, and got a good boost out of. Only gave me a couple ft-lbs of peak torque, but gave a good boost down around 4000-5000, and a BIG boost up above about 6500rpm resulting in about +13hp peak.
If you want to work on the soft (but good) handling, get some 21mm Dali Racing swaybars (www.daliracing.com). I'd pass on new springs and shocks unless you want to lower the car.
Rims are a really popular mod, especially if it still has the factory 5-spokes. 17/18 is most popular. However, I'd *definitely* get the dali swaybars if you're gonna go that route, as putting that much meat in the rear will make you understeer, and the dali swaybars will help with that.
And of course, if you've got the cash, go for the Basch Boost supercharger (not quite yet available) and a big brake kit.
And yes, it's possible to swap a 6-speed into the older cars. It's expensive ($5000+ including clutch and tranny, and that's if you can find it used), and whether it's worth it depends on how much you can afford and what you want out of the car. However, I tend to think you'd do just as well putting a comptech 4.55 ring and pinion in the 5-speed with stock gears (but that's my opinion, some people prefer JDM gears with NSX-R 4.235 R&P). But if you want to get a supercharger and go 200mph, then get the 6-speed. 6-speed might also give better mileage, but it'd have to be a LOT better to make up for the extra cost. The way the 6-speed kit works is you basically get a clutch and transmission from a 97+ NSX (or a comptech powergrip II clutch), and install it, and then get the comptech part that does reverse lock-out. You don't actually need the reverse lockout, though. Some people choose to skip it.
If you have any other questions, don't hesitate to post.
Oh, also, you might want to visit the forums at http://www.nsxprime.com as they're better-traffic'ed, and also you might want to get on the mailing list(s), especially the one in your area, as you can probably get someone to check out the car with you.
-Mike
1) does the AC blow cold, and does the compressor make noise (flip it on and off and listen). Check both driver's and passenger's sides for even air temp
2) make sure both power windows work smoothly.
3) make sure the stereo works
4) appraise the condition of the seats, and general condition of the interior
5) open doors, trunk, hood, engine bay glass, and look at all the bolts that mount the body panels, looking for evidence of whether they've been turned (indicating replacement). Not necessarily a big deal, especially if you're buy the car for keeps and to drive and enjoy it, but it could be a point to bargain the price on.
6) tires, get on your hands and knees and look at the inside edges. Just to make sure you're not gonna have to buy new ones right away
7) see if there's water in the tail lights
8) flip the sun visors around and look for places where the seams busted open
9) flip up the trunk matt and make sure the whole toolkit is there. There should be a screwdriver, scissor jack, compressor, and pressure gauge. I might have forgotten something.
10) look at the car in good light from various angles to get an idea of how many swirl marks and such there are, and whether there's any weirdness that could be attributed to a repaired ding.
11) of course, get the tranny number and see if it's in the snap ring range. I'd recommend writing the range down and bringing it with you, just to save time.
12) find out when the clutch was last replaced.
There's other things I've overlooked, I'm sure, but if you cover all those bases, you should be able to be reasonably confident you're getting a pretty solid car. And really, none of the things on the list would be reasons to not by the car, as long as you can get them to reduce the price accordingly. If there's something wrong with the A/C (even if it's just not blowing cold) get them to come down a grand, as there are some common leak-causing failures that are pricey to fix. If the compressor makes noise, get them to come down 2 or 3 grand, as it can get really expensive really fast, especially if you have to go to a dealer (as opposed to a good independant place).
As for where to start on mods.... Just leave it alone and get used to it for a while. You'll prolly find it's very strange to go from the Type-R to the NSX, and then back to the Type-R, because of differences in seating position (I had a GS-R when I got my NSX). After that, the first mods you'll prolly want to make, if you're into sound, are a Cantrell Concepts intake duct (you can get it at http://www.scienceofspeed.com) and a new exhaust, because the stock NSX is just too damn quiet.
Used exhausts go up for sale pretty often, might grab one of those. The exhaust won't give you a noticeable power increase, though. After that, you might want to get headers. science of speed has the best price on DC Sports headers, which I have in my car, and got a good boost out of. Only gave me a couple ft-lbs of peak torque, but gave a good boost down around 4000-5000, and a BIG boost up above about 6500rpm resulting in about +13hp peak.If you want to work on the soft (but good) handling, get some 21mm Dali Racing swaybars (www.daliracing.com). I'd pass on new springs and shocks unless you want to lower the car.
Rims are a really popular mod, especially if it still has the factory 5-spokes. 17/18 is most popular. However, I'd *definitely* get the dali swaybars if you're gonna go that route, as putting that much meat in the rear will make you understeer, and the dali swaybars will help with that.
And of course, if you've got the cash, go for the Basch Boost supercharger (not quite yet available) and a big brake kit.
And yes, it's possible to swap a 6-speed into the older cars. It's expensive ($5000+ including clutch and tranny, and that's if you can find it used), and whether it's worth it depends on how much you can afford and what you want out of the car. However, I tend to think you'd do just as well putting a comptech 4.55 ring and pinion in the 5-speed with stock gears (but that's my opinion, some people prefer JDM gears with NSX-R 4.235 R&P). But if you want to get a supercharger and go 200mph, then get the 6-speed. 6-speed might also give better mileage, but it'd have to be a LOT better to make up for the extra cost. The way the 6-speed kit works is you basically get a clutch and transmission from a 97+ NSX (or a comptech powergrip II clutch), and install it, and then get the comptech part that does reverse lock-out. You don't actually need the reverse lockout, though. Some people choose to skip it.
If you have any other questions, don't hesitate to post.
Oh, also, you might want to visit the forums at http://www.nsxprime.com as they're better-traffic'ed, and also you might want to get on the mailing list(s), especially the one in your area, as you can probably get someone to check out the car with you.
-Mike
A couple more things are to make sure the alarm arms and disarms with the remote. Then arm it, and open the driver's door with the key and see if it sets off the alarm (should disarm the alarm and let you enter, but often the sensors fail). Repeat test for passenger side. Then make sure you can open the trunk without setting off the alarm.
And if you buy it, check the allen-head screws on the door that hold the latch in (I think that's what they do) as they often back out, and can scratch the doorjam.
-Mike
And if you buy it, check the allen-head screws on the door that hold the latch in (I think that's what they do) as they often back out, and can scratch the doorjam.
-Mike
... But i am considering selling it for the NSX if i decide a beater is more apropriate instead...
34K will get you a spankin new S2000 - with a warranty.
Not the mistique of the NSX, but near as fast, and any issues for 36 months are the dealers problems.
Im 25, and a 98-00 white NXS is in my future!
.02 shorter,
Demian
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