Hey guys, I keep blowing the #14 fuse in my car, labled on the dash fuse panel as the alternator solenoid fuse. As soon as a turn the key over it pops the fuse, even if i put a 30 amp in (supposed to be 10). Can anyone tell me where i can find diagrams of every circuit run off that fuse? Chiltons doesnt help too much. Any pointers would help, thanks.

 

get an ohmmeter and check the circuit.
Could be anything.
Loose wire, damaged insulation, faulty alternator.
i just looked at a chilton schematic.
it was pretty self explanitory.

 

yeah the chilton is easy to understand, it just doesnt tell me what i need to know. I did however find some wiring diagrams saying that fuse is connected to:
the voltage regulator
emission control solenoid valves
PGMFI main relay
PGMFI ecu
fuel pump
eacv

does anyone have an idea what the emission control solenoid valves are?? any help on this topic is greatly appreciated

 

There's more stuff than that.
what year/model is your car?
you may now have multiple problems since u increased fuse size.

 

its a 91 civic dx with a y8 so i did the multi port swap. i just put the 30 amp fuse in for a second and it just blew right away, would that really have increased my problem???

 

Sounds like you have a short, check the wiring for continuity.

 

bump for a good guy who puts way to much time into his car

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90blackcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sounds like you have a short, check the wiring for continuity.</TD></TR></TABLE>

could you explain this a bit more to me please...i dont have any experience with testing electronics, only installing and extending wires, thanks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hatchback_al &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

could you explain this a bit more to me please...i dont have any experience with testing electronics, only installing and extending wires, thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>

Continuity means a complete electrical path.
shorts occur when there is no load.
Load could be grounded, bad insulation on a wire, winding to winding short.
It's the same thing as placing a jumper across your battery + to -.
Fuses are installed in series with the load to open the circuit upon a short or overamperage.
Fuses prevent fires and **** exploding

 

where and how do i check the wiring. with a test light? sorry im still a bit clueless as to what i should do when it comes to checking the wiring with any sorts of electronic tools aka. testing for continuity. but basically i should find the circuit off that fuse that is getting electricity when it shoudnt be?

 

bump

 

did this start happening out of the blue?

 

it happened a month or two after i did my swap. one day it basically fixed itself for another 5 months then the other day it just started blowing again. every now and then it wont pop the fuse immediatly after turning the key to the before crank position (which it usually does), it will only blow once i try to crank the car. VARY rarely it will let me start it and drive for a block or two before blowing but that only happened twice...ive gone through like 15 fuses so far....however when it WAS working correctly it worked flawlessly for months....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eda6 hb &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Continuity means a complete electrical path.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yep, but if you have a short to ground it will still show that the path is there and everything is fine. You could hook up a multimeter and see how much resistance there is.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90blackcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yep, but if you have a short to ground it will still show that the path is there and everything is fine. You could hook up a multimeter and see how much resistance there is.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You're right. I told this to him in an instant message.

 

read the top paragraph: http://www.inliners.org/tech/tech6.html
also explained here: http://www.ponypics.com/spitfi....html

 

god damn people are morons. why would you put a bigger amp fuse in. when obviously the one that is meant to be there from the factory is popping. obviously something isnt right why would you want to make it worse.

 

i just wanted to see if enough voltage was flowing through it to pop a 30 also, i didnt drive it or even intend to.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 88DXCRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">read the top paragraph: http://www.inliners.org/tech/tech6.html
also explained here: http://www.ponypics.com/spitfi....html

</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks thats some great info

 

bump

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90blackcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yep, but if you have a short to ground it will still show that the path is there and everything is fine. You could hook up a multimeter and see how much resistance there is.</TD></TR></TABLE>

not necessarily. Think about it.. there is a wire between point A and point B if somewhere in the middle it's seperated and grounded to metal there will be no continuity. but if there is a bare piece of the wire exposed and it grounds that will have continuity and a hi amp draw (which blow fuses).

My bet is that you have a wire somewhere that touches metal once in a while. Jiggle your engine harness around and try it again.

 

I have herd of this fuse popping when a Walbro high flow fuel pump installed. I dont know what the guy did to remedy it tho. I think that he put in a bigger fuse because the new fuel pump drains a bit more juice then the stock one does. If it does have an upgraded fuel pump, make sure that it has some good size wires going to it because the stock wires really cut down on the power that the fuel pump gets.

Hope this is it,

Blaze

 

Nope, no walbro pump here. At least not yet, i have heard the same thing and will install better wire to keep this from happening, still working on the current problem though....