I have recently purchased a 1995 Accord Coupe 5spd. When I got the car I knew that I was in for some work because I bought it at an As Is lot for cheap. The check engine light, SRS airbaglight, and ABS lights were all on. I really dont care about the airbag and abs, i just pulled the bulbs, but the engine light is bothering me. I did the test where you short that wire on the passenger side and the ECU blinks the code on the panel. I got a code 1 for the test. So I went and bought an O2 sensor to replace the old one. I bought the bosch general fit O2 sensor and wired it up. I tried pulling the 7.5 amp fuse and disconecting the battery. THE LIGHT WILL NOT TURN OFF. It is still showing a code 1. I double checked my wiring on the sensor and made sure of connectivity all the way from the senor to the wire bundle going into the firewall. Everything seems to be ok, but that light will not go away. The car seems to have been in a fender bender before and the engine was replaced. If that can help tell anything. Could someone please help me with this before i pull all my hair out. Thanks. Nick.

 

First thing, remove power to the ecu to reset it.

When you start it up after, you should be okay until the engine starts warming up.
If you get the cel again, jump it to fetch the code.

If it is a 1, then you need to test the circuit again. Because in my experience, code 1 is tripped when your circuit/sensor are bad.

To test, do the following:

note: the sensor will not give a reading unless it is at least 600 degrees farenheit.

Take the sensor out. hook up a voltmeter. Heat the O2 Sensor with the torch and observe your volt meter. You should see the voltage climb to .6V in 15 Seconds, then on up to .8V in the next 45 seconds. Remove from flame and voltage should drop to less than .2V in less than four seconds. Repeat this test two more times. If it meets the voltage and time specifications, then you're good. If not, either bad sensor (even though it is new, it may happen) or broken circuit.

fs

 

I will try your method of testing the sensor. However, I have already tested the sensor with the volt meter while the sensor was in the vehicle running. I stuck pins in the wires and attached the voltmeter and started the car. Now, the voltmeter seemed to be reading 0.6 volts when the sensor was cold and the ignition was on. That didnt seem quite right. Im not sure if the meter was not calibrated corectly or if the sensor is reading wrong. After the engine ran for a few minutes, the voltmeter began fluctuating between zero and 0.9 volts. I still feel lost with this. Is it possible that the ECU is bad?
Thanks. Nick.

 

P.S.
The check engine light doesnt even wait 2 minutes until the engine heats up to come on.
After you reset the ECU the engine light goes of for 2 seconds and then right back on.

 

Man, if your sensor is fluctuating between 0 and .9 volts, don't you think that would be a problem. Can you get a replacement sensor from a friend to try out.

fs