Alright well here it goes, i am working at a place that makes 7.50 an hour and i get paid every two weeks at this sandwhich shop at a busy *** place. I get paid every

two weeks about 400 buks andi have a car payment of about 200. I have about 1300 saved up. So I am currently saving for the b18c5 block for my oo si with bolt

ons. The block cost about 2200 brand new from this shop. Now my question is, is the block going to make a huge differnce for how long i am saving, like is it worth

it to save for a brand new b18c5 block for how hard i am working? Like will it be a really noticeable differnce? Will i be happy with it for how long its gunna take to save?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdm_loser &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Alright well here it goes, i am working at a place that makes 7.50 an hour and i get paid every two weeks at this sandwhich shop at a busy *** place. I get paid every

two weeks about 400 buks andi have a car payment of about 200. I have about 1300 saved up. So I am currently saving for the b18c5 block for my oo si with bolt

ons. The block cost about 2200 brand new from this shop. Now my question is, is the block going to make a huge differnce for how long i am saving, like is it worth

it to save for a brand new b18c5 block for how hard i am working? Like will it be a really noticeable differnce? Will i be happy with it for how long its gunna take to save?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

The B18C5 block will make a difference, certainly. It's a 1.8L, so it will have more torque and more whp too.

But for the money why not get a Jackson Racing supercharger or a decent turbo set-up?

 

i was thinking about a JR sc but I dont know. The Turbo gets really expenisive imo because i like to do the stuff right the first time so i would save up for all the right **** and be spending about 5 grand i figured up to be safe with that and i just dont ahve the patience to wait that long. I dont know. I just like the fact of a brand new engine? over a supercharger .


i dont really know i just want to get some opinions on what people here would do.

 

yeah keep the b16 and slap on a turbo for that price or cheaper

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CivHizzle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah keep the b16 and slap on a turbo for that price or cheaper</TD></TR></TABLE>

But how do you figure cheaper??

2600 for a turbo kit brand new

400 for like a hondata

tunning

installation

....... and worrying wether or not its going to blow up.

 

If you're set on N/A (I don't blame you - I am too ) then the C5 block would be very nice.

 

i know this is a little off topic, but you are planning on putting your b16 head on a type-r block? i know ive heard of this set up before but what kind of power/advantages/disadvantages come from this "poor man's" type-r motor?

 

nitrous and spare bottom end

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by anothersickhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i know this is a little off topic, but you are planning on putting your b16 head on a type-r block? i know ive heard of this set up before but what kind of power/advantages/disadvantages come from this "poor man's" type-r motor?</TD></TR></TABLE>

a lil less power, most know that a itr head is just a ported b16 head, has the same flow patterns, i think even the same size cc (combustion chamber).

 

If it's just for the block (if you meant short block), then forget the ITR block. It's weaksauce. Get the block from a B20 VTEC motor. More reliable than drilling a hole for the oil line that you would need to do on a B18B1 (LS) block. My other personal option would be to get a hold of a block from a B17 VTEC motor. They have a nicely balanced crank. Good luck finding one used as they only made about 1700 2nd gen' GS-R's. Otherwise, buy it new.

 

I say go turbo---install it yourself though man, it's not that hard

You drive a Civic--they make turbo kits,

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you're set on N/A (I don't blame you - I am too ) then the C5 block would be very nice.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

N/A is the way to go its just more impressive imo to have a powerful N/A engine

 

Convert to OBD 1, build a turbo kit for under $2000, run Uberdata and a 13 flat. My friend's 00 SI ran a 12.9 with the afore mentioned. T3/T4 10 psi.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TallAzzFilipino &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If it's just for the block (if you meant short block), then forget the ITR block. It's weaksauce. </TD></TR></TABLE>

He's buying it brand new from the dealership. Also tell me how the B18C5 block is "weaksauce" and then you suggest a low-*** compression, thin cylinder walled B20 shitblock? The B18C5 shorty attached to the B16A WILL make MORE power than a B20 block attached to the B16A head. Tell me how it won't!

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Get the block from a B20 VTEC motor. More reliable than drilling a hole for the oil line that you would need to do on a B18B1 (LS) block. </TD></TR></TABLE>

WTF are you talking about? Both blocks require the EXACT SAME METHODS for making them mate with the VTEC head!



Where do you people come up with these "facts?"

 

If it were me, I would keep your block, get it sleeved, and get this package:

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=815614

I would probably get IB(good and pretty cheap) rods to attach to the LS crank too.

Steve(Tech43Racing) is a great guy, who really knows his stuff.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rochesterricer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If it were me, I would keep your block, get it sleeved, and get this package:

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=815614

I would probably get IB(good and pretty cheap) rods to attach to the LS crank too.

Steve(Tech43Racing) is a great guy, who really knows his stuff.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That is a great kit and all, but you will not top the reliability of an OE Honda-built brand new B18C5 shortblock. Plus that stroker kit has the same R/S ratio of an LS engine, which is not ideal for highrevving VTEC engines. Let's just say that it would not last as long as the B18C5 shortblock.

 

True.

 

if its just the block bare then get a gsr block it may be cheaper. exactly the same. either way the 1.8 liter vtec block is very good to start with. especially mated to a b16 or p73 head.

the b20 is a nice idea but they work alot better with the gsr head.

 

dude ur gay.

end of story.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2thousandcivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nitrous and spare bottom end </TD></TR></TABLE>

Already tried that.

 

i love all motor, but im in college and dont have the money. you sound like your strapped for cash too. i say get a decent turbo setup with the money instead and be making more power.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

He's buying it brand new from the dealership. Also tell me how the B18C5 block is "weaksauce" and then you suggest a low-*** compression, thin cylinder walled B20 shitblock? The B18C5 shorty attached to the B16A WILL make MORE power than a B20 block attached to the B16A head. Tell me how it won't!

WTF are you talking about? Both blocks require the EXACT SAME METHODS for making them mate with the VTEC head!



Where do you people come up with these "facts?"


</TD></TR></TABLE>

For the price of a B18C5 block you could purchase a B20 block, get it pinned, Z10 crank girdle, and some Wiseco pistons. This will net you a 2.0 liter block that has the same compression or higher as a B18C5 and has higher torque. The only downside is you don't have the reliability of a factory built block and you dont have the oil squirters ( which can be installed).

Also the B20 cylinder wall is not thin as you say in your quote. It is plenty thick to handle a N/A application. You can always get the block pinned if you are worried about the cylinder walls. I recommend this if you plan on revving to 9k+ anyways.

I will agree with you on the fact that most people posting here have no idea what they are talking about.

 

Rev Hard turbo kit and Hondata.

Great bang for the buck.

-Ben

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TallAzzFilipino &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

He said nothing about buying it from the "dealership." He said: "from this shop." If you've ever experienced any Type R motor (and I'm sure you have since it looks like you got the USDM version), you'd be quick to notice it's weak low-end torque. Only thing that pretty much helps it's low-end is the LSD it's tranny is equipped with. Keep in mind jdm_loser doesn't have much money to waste so just like GZR4DR mentioned: get a B20 block and work with it. Anything "Type R" is going to be expensive. It seems you were born just yesterday. You missed the whole era of the Frankensetein setup or LS-VTEC / B20-VTEC. The larger your displacement, the better your low-end torque so they're great for launching, yet they lack potential for top speeds. Just look at the Bonneville landspeeds. You'll never see any H22-equipped Honda's out there. And yes even the LS has a larger displacement than any other B-series VTEC engine other than, of course, the CRV's. (Oh, sort of out of the topic: a record was set for the world's fastest Civic reaching over 200mph with a B16).

If you didn't know, later CR-V's did have available a VTEC engine. This is why I mentioned getting a shortblock from the B20 VTEC (not B20-VTEC) engine as it would already have a hole. Correct? This would be for the reason if he were concerned about reliability. Why do you think the Top Fuel EK (here in the U.S.) even went with a B20-VTEC (Type R) setup (before they later added turbo)? Because the B20 block already did and had more potential to make up for a Type R's weak lower end-torque.


Modified by TallAzzFilipino at 3:25 PM 7/16/2004</TD></TR></TABLE>
Your posts are making no sense? Obviously this person is wanting something reliable and na. Throwing together a ls/vtec, or b20/vtec would net more power, but with a stock b18c5 block, you couldn't match reliability, expecially if that block hasn't been torn apart before. And where were these vtec crv's at? I have never seena factoy crv that came with a vtec b20? At least in the us.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2thousandcivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">a lil less power, most know that a itr head is just a ported b16 head, has the same flow patterns, i think even the same size cc (combustion chamber).</TD></TR></TABLE>

itr head also has better moving parts..ie valvetrain, lma's, cams, ect...