Street to race conversion questions about CRX?
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Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,596
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From: Between Willow, and Button Willow, CA, USA
I am having a problem getting my gauge cluster to function. I am just about done with re-installing everything after putting the cage in, and it wont work.
I took all the heater and climate control stuff out of the car, and everything else under the dash is hooked up were it should go.
Is there something I am missing?
The gauge cluster does not work at all except for the battery light. When you turn the ignition to the on position, the battery light stays on as it should, but nothing else comes on. I don't have a working temp gauge, and the tach does not work either.
The hazard lights are not working as well...
The clock works though.
I checked all the fuses in the car under the hood, and dash, and all my connectors under the dash.
The only thing I can think of is that something needs to be "jumped" where I took all the heater core and climate control stuff out.
I also removed all the wiring for the seat belt crap.
Anyone have an idea? I am hoping someone has had the same problem when they took all the crap out!
Thanks
I took all the heater and climate control stuff out of the car, and everything else under the dash is hooked up were it should go.
Is there something I am missing?
The gauge cluster does not work at all except for the battery light. When you turn the ignition to the on position, the battery light stays on as it should, but nothing else comes on. I don't have a working temp gauge, and the tach does not work either.
The hazard lights are not working as well...
The clock works though.
I checked all the fuses in the car under the hood, and dash, and all my connectors under the dash.
The only thing I can think of is that something needs to be "jumped" where I took all the heater core and climate control stuff out.
I also removed all the wiring for the seat belt crap.
Anyone have an idea? I am hoping someone has had the same problem when they took all the crap out!
Thanks
Do you have a voltage tester? I would poke around with that and see where you're getting power and where you aren't getting power. Did anything get sprayed with paint after the cage install?
Not to seem stupid-but what kind of racing are you planning on? If Improved Touring you are NOT allowed to remove ANY of the heater controls from the dash. In fact the heater itself MUST stay. THe complete AC unit underhood can go along with the wiring for it only. If you are drag racing that could well be different. If you run SCCA production or even SOLO the rules are different. Be sure that you follow the rules for the sanctioning body very carefully. Get yourself the rulebooks.
Now to your problem-check Grounds first. This is a point that get overlooked a lot. If you have 12 volts at the underdash fuse panel input terminal you should also see it at each of the fuses. Check the fuses in the MAIN panel underhood as well. There are 3 there. The 50 amp one controls Ignition and a lot of other things.
Hope this helps
Now to your problem-check Grounds first. This is a point that get overlooked a lot. If you have 12 volts at the underdash fuse panel input terminal you should also see it at each of the fuses. Check the fuses in the MAIN panel underhood as well. There are 3 there. The 50 amp one controls Ignition and a lot of other things.
Hope this helps
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,596
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From: Between Willow, and Button Willow, CA, USA
I am building the car for HC, so I'm good there.
I covered all the wiring when I painted the cage. The grounds are a good idea. Wiring problems are the biggest pain in the ***. I would rather deal with anything else other than a wiring problem!
I do have a voltage tester. I just don't know where to start because there are so many places to check. I guess I will start at the fuse panel as mentioned...Not sure where else though...
I covered all the wiring when I painted the cage. The grounds are a good idea. Wiring problems are the biggest pain in the ***. I would rather deal with anything else other than a wiring problem!
I do have a voltage tester. I just don't know where to start because there are so many places to check. I guess I will start at the fuse panel as mentioned...Not sure where else though...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by prkiller »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I covered all the wiring when I painted the cage. The grounds are a good idea. Wiring problems are the biggest pain in the ***. I would rather deal with anything else other than a wiring problem!</TD></TR></TABLE>
if you live a little closer I would help out... I love fixing electrical problems..
if you live a little closer I would help out... I love fixing electrical problems..
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,596
Likes: 0
From: Between Willow, and Button Willow, CA, USA
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95tegLSS »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
if you live a little closer I would help out... I love fixing electrical problems.. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Maybe you can give me a few pointers then, because I hate it.
Figure that, an electician that hates electrical problems! At least in cars I do, but if you have a problem in your house, I'm your guy!
if you live a little closer I would help out... I love fixing electrical problems.. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Maybe you can give me a few pointers then, because I hate it.
Figure that, an electician that hates electrical problems! At least in cars I do, but if you have a problem in your house, I'm your guy!
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,596
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From: Between Willow, and Button Willow, CA, USA
Update!
I figured out why the cluster was not working and the hazard lights. There was a plug for the fuse panel that was loose, that fixed the hazards.
The cluster was a bit more complicated. It had a burnt spot on the circuit board on the back that was not allowing current to flow. I put a jumper on it, and now it works. But, the temp gauge is screwy. I have the stock sender running both my autometer water temp gauge and the stock gauge. It's worked fine for the last 2 years, but something is wrong.
I will try to be more precise with my next post as far as voltage drops and increases and such. Maybe I can get some help after I post what it's doing!
I figured out why the cluster was not working and the hazard lights. There was a plug for the fuse panel that was loose, that fixed the hazards.
The cluster was a bit more complicated. It had a burnt spot on the circuit board on the back that was not allowing current to flow. I put a jumper on it, and now it works. But, the temp gauge is screwy. I have the stock sender running both my autometer water temp gauge and the stock gauge. It's worked fine for the last 2 years, but something is wrong.
I will try to be more precise with my next post as far as voltage drops and increases and such. Maybe I can get some help after I post what it's doing!
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