Finally got around to working on the heap. Had a bit of trouble getting the number 2 rod off of the crank itself, seems as if there was a lot of play and things were not nice. heres what the bearings look like, they are very thin.



and here is my crank...


Tomorrow I'm either buying ssome machinest tools, or going to a machine sho tp get some measurements. My rods look similiar to the crank, i got a pic around here somewhere if you wanna see that too.

Without having any measurements, does that look like I can use that crank and even rod again?

heres where the bearings went:


and found some debris in the vtec solenoid filter


That debris looks a little more like sand than it does chewed up bearings... im getting the block hot tanked before i reinstall it.

Also one more thing... here is my cam journal, is this normal for a 110,000 mile motor?



And heres everything.... see those poor bearings The mains looked pretty good though.




Please give me your advice.. thanks a lot

 

just by looking at it, I think yes its still savagable. Get a dial indicator and see if its still in spec

 

gona need some work done on it to save it.

 

you can have the crank machined, I probably wouldn't use the rods, and if you do machine the crank it will be hard to match the bearings, if you have the $ I would start over, just my .02 from my experience.

 

ill get some real numbers tomorrow but thans for your inputs.


any more opinions? haha it'll be a whiiiile before this runs again

 

If thats a vtec crank then I dont think there's any aftermarket oversized bearings for them yet... Just buy a new crank and be stressfree

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TURBO4drTypeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If thats a vtec crank then I dont think there's any aftermarket oversized bearings for them yet... Just buy a new crank and be stressfree </TD></TR></TABLE>

how much does a new crank go far, and can i be confident its not abused at all?

im off to the machine shop or sears to get some tools, im a bit on the broke side right now haha.

ill take the rod too... be back

 

It looks like you spun a bearing. Or were very close to it.

Ive heard from Earl that Honda cranks are heat treated and if you have any of the journals lathed you should have it heat treated again which alone costs more than a used crank. I havent been able to confirm that however.

If you spun a rod bearing your crank is toast, if you spun a main bearing your block and crank are toast.

You can get a used LS crank for ~$125 and a GSR crank for ~$150. I went with a LS crank in my built GSR block when I spun a rod bearing. Then I had it inspected, balanced, polished, and magnafluxed for $100 to make sure it was kosher.

Your cams look fine. Inspect the journals on the head. You can polish any scratches out with a dremel if you want but the cams look ok.

 

i wouldnt want to deal with it. i would just go with an ls crank and some forged internals

 

just take it to a machine shop. but you'll have to use oversized bearings. ACL makes them. did that on an ls crank. car has been running for over 3 months. its a built ls vtec. but rod's are not good anymore

 

MuckMan answered your question But hey, you might be lucky and find an R crank Anyhow B series crank will run about 100-200 depending who's selling them... Its not hard to inspect to see if a crank is good or not(just make sure there's no harsh scratches or grooves on the journals) and you can do that by running your finger nail all around to see if there's any bad grooves....

Goodluck

 

Can anybody confirm if Honda cranks are in fact heat treated from the factory or not?

 

okay got some numbers....

my bad rod journal is 12 thousandths under a good journal's measurement. I dont have a mic, and the guy who was mic'ing it for me told me i would have to pay him for his time if i made him do all the others, and check for out of round.

the bad rod journal measured 1.759". The machinest told me I could get 20 over bearings and grind all the rod journals down to that spec also.

new bearings (rod, main, thrust), inspected for cracks, and grinding down will cost $260.

 

Yeah its possible but at that price you can get another crank for less. Like I said I got my LS crank for $100 shipped + $100 for the balancing etc which really isnt nessecary. So save yourself the headache and buy another crank.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Muckman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah its possible but at that price you can get another crank for less. Like I said I got my LS crank for $100 shipped + $100 for the balancing etc which really isnt nessecary. So save yourself the headache and buy another crank.</TD></TR></TABLE>


I dont have any bearings that I can use. The 260 he quoted me included bearings.

Why should I avoid working with my crank, and how would I know a new (used) crank isnt in worse condition, or something I cant see?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18EG6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the bad rod journal measured 1.759". The machinest told me I could get 20 over bearings and grind all the rod journals down to that spec also.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Couldn't you just get a 20 over bearing for that rod then use normal on the others?

 

Yeah that would be the most logical.

B18EG6 if your willing to pay the extra money I say go for it.

 

Looks like a spun bearing to me also. The crank can be ground .020" under and ACL makes a .020" oversize. To be done properly, the crank would need to be re-heat treated after grinding. Heat treating runs about $200. You can always run without the heat treat and see what happens.
The big end of the rod that spun must be resized back to stock also.

 

well lets put it this way
Ive seen worse

But in my opinion Id say your not f#ck
Doesnt look that bad....but defenitly doesnt look good
Well anyway good luck

-Brian

 

What a pain in the ***. I'd just buy a used crank and new rod. Any clue why this occured?

 

no lubrication

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by earl &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no lubrication</TD></TR></TABLE>

Agreed.. You might be able to have the crank turned or micropolished(kinda hard to see how deep the scratch are from the pic).. Either way if your going to use the block I would have it hot tanked to make sure you got all the metal shavings out of there.. Also probably going to need to have your oil pump rebuilt..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by earl &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no lubrication </TD></TR></TABLE>
you got it. oil light came on, pulled over and towed it home.

this was the reason for the oil light


I took apart my motor and did the main bearings, but was told not to touch the rod bearings.... needless to say, last time i listen to my friend.

earl - should I get all the rod journals done 20 under? What disadvantages/advantages would be with doing one 20 under/doing all 20 under?

I dont think the rod is salvagable... ill get a pic of it. Where can I get <FONT COLOR="red">heat</FONT> treating done?

What are the disadvantages to getting just one more stock GSR rod and running with that (if any) ?

spork - i dont have much money now. Im willing to wait till as long as it takes to build again properly, but im looking for the less expensive way out.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tgreaves &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Agreed.. You might be able to have the crank turned or micropolished(kinda hard to see how deep the scratch are from the pic).. Either way if your going to use the block I would have it hot tanked to make sure you got all the metal shavings out of there.. Also probably going to need to have your oil pump rebuilt..</TD></TR></TABLE>

I was told I cant have the block hot tanked.. why was i told this? I was told the alternative to hot tanking is degreasing.

argh i think im getting fed some whack information across the different places I go... give me input guys.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18EG6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I was told I cant have the block hot tanked.. why was i told this? I was told the alternative to hot tanking is degreasing.

argh i think im getting fed some whack information across the different places I go... give me input guys.</TD></TR></TABLE>

If your going to change the main bearings just change the rod ones too..

Unless they throw the word hottank around but mean something else I dont know.. I know when I take my block to Fuzion to get my darton sleeves installed they said that they would hottank it..

 

I vote you to go ahead and get the crank turned, use over sized bearings and try it without the heat treatment. I want to know if that step is really nessecary.