CRx rust problem....Primer or anti-corrosion
Hello ive been trying to fix up the trunk area of my CRX.. I have got must of the rust removed and used a rust remover to flush out any rust pits...I used a primer to cover some of the good areas, but should i use something like an anti-corrosion paint to seal off areas that were severe? For primer im using Rustoleum heavy metal rust primer which seems to have a good stick.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybridcrx469 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hello ive been trying to fix up the trunk area of my CRX.. I have got must of the rust removed and used a rust remover to flush out any rust pits...I used a primer to cover some of the good areas, but should i use something like an anti-corrosion paint to seal off areas that were severe? For primer im using Rustoleum heavy metal rust primer which seems to have a good stick.</TD></TR></TABLE>
If it was me, I would put a layer of rust protectant on and If you have any anti corrosion paint I would use it.
If it was me, I would put a layer of rust protectant on and If you have any anti corrosion paint I would use it.
Hybridcrx;
It may help to clearly define what different paint type materials are and what they do.
First off, I'm not sure what you use as a "rust remover".
Products like Por15 and Marhide are "rust converters" and they chemically convert rust to an inert covering that will not further rust and seal the surface. Both are great products but are limited to areas where they penetrate. In other words, if the rust is flaky, then they can't get to the lower area and it will stay as rust, and continue to rot! Think of it this way, if all the rust doesn't get "wet" with the product, it isn't converted.
Almost all paint products called "primers" are porous and water can soak through them!!! The do not seal out water and rust can form under them. Think of it as having a damp sponge taped to the metal surface. The outside surface of the sponge may dry out while the surface in contact with the metal is still wet.
A good "sealer" that I like to use is the "DP" primers by PPG. It will seal out water.
Rustoleum is a great product for lawn chairs. It seals out water and helps prevent rust. The only problem is that (as I understand it) it uses fish oil to help prevent rusting. If you want to use a quality automotive paint over it you will have problems (due to the oil).
Wes
It may help to clearly define what different paint type materials are and what they do.
First off, I'm not sure what you use as a "rust remover".
Products like Por15 and Marhide are "rust converters" and they chemically convert rust to an inert covering that will not further rust and seal the surface. Both are great products but are limited to areas where they penetrate. In other words, if the rust is flaky, then they can't get to the lower area and it will stay as rust, and continue to rot! Think of it this way, if all the rust doesn't get "wet" with the product, it isn't converted.
Almost all paint products called "primers" are porous and water can soak through them!!! The do not seal out water and rust can form under them. Think of it as having a damp sponge taped to the metal surface. The outside surface of the sponge may dry out while the surface in contact with the metal is still wet.
A good "sealer" that I like to use is the "DP" primers by PPG. It will seal out water.
Rustoleum is a great product for lawn chairs. It seals out water and helps prevent rust. The only problem is that (as I understand it) it uses fish oil to help prevent rusting. If you want to use a quality automotive paint over it you will have problems (due to the oil).
Wes
thanks for the help! i had no idea primer sucked that bad. but like i said before. its just my under trunk area where the spare tire is. so ill do anything i can to keep the rust out. as far as paint goes, nothing expensive is going in there because no one will ever see it
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Rywire
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
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Aug 2, 2004 07:44 AM



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