fuel pump doesnt come on when key is turned
So my fuel pump doesnt come on right away.. did an hour ago, did a tranny oil change and now it doesn't work.. go figure..
The engine warning light comes on right away, i got it to crank and almost start but then it died on me. Now it just cranks like there's no fuel.
All fuses checked, all good. There would be a 2 second delay before the check engine light comes on if it was coming on for the fuel pump specifically(least thats what the VTEC manual says, lol)
It's a B16 swap in a DX with a PW0 ECU, fuel pumps in the tank, relays under the dash where it's supposed to be. Yeah i might have this solved if my roommate didn't steal my volt meter.
So give me a direction because there's about 12 possibilities.
The most likely problem may be the ECU, because it should throw codes, 3 of em, and it doesn't right now. For that test i need to know which wire is 12V+ & Switched 12V+ on the harness for the PW0.
thanks techies!
The engine warning light comes on right away, i got it to crank and almost start but then it died on me. Now it just cranks like there's no fuel.
All fuses checked, all good. There would be a 2 second delay before the check engine light comes on if it was coming on for the fuel pump specifically(least thats what the VTEC manual says, lol)
It's a B16 swap in a DX with a PW0 ECU, fuel pumps in the tank, relays under the dash where it's supposed to be. Yeah i might have this solved if my roommate didn't steal my volt meter.
So give me a direction because there's about 12 possibilities. The most likely problem may be the ECU, because it should throw codes, 3 of em, and it doesn't right now. For that test i need to know which wire is 12V+ & Switched 12V+ on the harness for the PW0.
thanks techies!
did you switch out you DX fuel pump?
it will die out if you use a stock dx pump on a b16
Walbo fuel pumps 79$ with free shipping
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=298292
it will die out if you use a stock dx pump on a b16
Walbo fuel pumps 79$ with free shipping
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=298292
Yeah i thought maybe the Main relay might be it. i replaced it last week. But i thought the blinkers and headlights wouldn't work if that was the case? Isn't that right?
F.P. should work fine , but i'm not sure what type mine is.
Car is a theft recovery, all my old parts, all moved to a new chassis by some dumbf*ck. However the B16 and all components have run fine for the past 8 months like this so i doubt it's anything to do with a bad swap, infact i think it's the same tank from my old SI.
F.P. should work fine , but i'm not sure what type mine is.
Car is a theft recovery, all my old parts, all moved to a new chassis by some dumbf*ck. However the B16 and all components have run fine for the past 8 months like this so i doubt it's anything to do with a bad swap, infact i think it's the same tank from my old SI.
A DX fuel pump will work fine...Ive had my swap for almost 3 years and my 15 year old pump is still kicking... Next check to see if it even is your fuel pump. Yes you have an ECU made for a b16a...BUT the crx is not equiped with any fuel system detection ( such as fuel supply system, fuel tank pressure sensor, ect so it will not throw a code) http://www.hybridgarage.com/tech/codes.html . You said you had a CEL right? what code is it throwing? check for voltage at the pump.
My chiltons book contains very detailed ways of testing your main relay and such...but their is way to much info to post. i would suggest getting a book for your rex
Modified by Hybridcrx469 at 8:48 PM 6/30/2004
My chiltons book contains very detailed ways of testing your main relay and such...but their is way to much info to post. i would suggest getting a book for your rex
Modified by Hybridcrx469 at 8:48 PM 6/30/2004
First, get your ear next to the gas tank and have someone crank the engine. Are you hearing a buzzing sound?
If not, go to your fuel pump, disconnect the power connector, and check for voltage. With the ignition in the on position, you should get a 12 volt spike for 2 seconds then 0 volts (1st prime). THen cranking the car you should get a constant 12 volts. Now i don't recall how many wires go to the pump on your car, but typically, you should have 3 i think (remember black is ground).
Now if you have voltage, your pump is shot.
If no voltage then look at fuse. if fuse is good, then check if you are getting voltage at that fuse outlet for the pump.
BTW. An easy way to see if a relay is working. Put your finger on it and crank. You will feel it click.
fs
If not, go to your fuel pump, disconnect the power connector, and check for voltage. With the ignition in the on position, you should get a 12 volt spike for 2 seconds then 0 volts (1st prime). THen cranking the car you should get a constant 12 volts. Now i don't recall how many wires go to the pump on your car, but typically, you should have 3 i think (remember black is ground).
Now if you have voltage, your pump is shot.
If no voltage then look at fuse. if fuse is good, then check if you are getting voltage at that fuse outlet for the pump.
BTW. An easy way to see if a relay is working. Put your finger on it and crank. You will feel it click.
fs
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lol damn i wish i had my volt meter. i'm going to wire up a test light with a turn signal bulb
that should work for this test. lol
and what i meant by throwing codes was, it should be throwing 3 <U>other</U> codes. but its not.. which makes me think not only is it the fuel pump but the ECU might not be coming on as well. but i'll start volt testing. .
Which pin on a PW0 harness is 12V+? and is there a 12v+ switched too?
(test1: click test. no clicking at the main relay... hmm)
(test2: relay has power)
(continuity test from (-) to Fuel pump will have to wait until i have my damn volt meter) I plugged in a siren to the pos/neg on the fuel pump switch and it didnt go off so i think its the relay. These f*ckers are expensive too, gotta go to pick'n'pull.
Modified by NikoZai at 12:46 PM 7/1/2004
Modified by NikoZai at 2:51 PM 7/1/2004
that should work for this test. lol and what i meant by throwing codes was, it should be throwing 3 <U>other</U> codes. but its not.. which makes me think not only is it the fuel pump but the ECU might not be coming on as well. but i'll start volt testing. .
Which pin on a PW0 harness is 12V+? and is there a 12v+ switched too?
(test1: click test. no clicking at the main relay... hmm)
(test2: relay has power)
(continuity test from (-) to Fuel pump will have to wait until i have my damn volt meter) I plugged in a siren to the pos/neg on the fuel pump switch and it didnt go off so i think its the relay. These f*ckers are expensive too, gotta go to pick'n'pull.
Modified by NikoZai at 12:46 PM 7/1/2004
Modified by NikoZai at 2:51 PM 7/1/2004
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