There has been a lot of talk about a B20 series engine with a B16A head creating a crv-tec which, if built correctly, can be a powerful setup for a fairly cheap amount. However, I was under the impression that the B20 (whether B or Z) was a stong engine for a turbo because of the lower compression and torque throughout the powerband. If that is the case and forced induction was the path I wanted to take, which is the better motor B20b or B20z or the "crv-tec" hybrid? What turbo setup would be best if shooting for a solid 300-350 hp? How difficult is it to get performance parts for the B20 series engine considering its not your mainstream engine (i.e. B16 or B18)? Is it a worthwhile investment to go with a B20 series if looking to turbo? In help is appreciated since a lot of sites are not extremely forthwith informtion about the above.

 

I'm no engine guru, but I know the b20's definately have to be sleeved for any turbo application. the cylinder walls are thin.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Touch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm no engine guru, but I know the b20's definately have to be sleeved for any turbo application. the cylinder walls are thin.</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats right u are no guru. low boost application on a b20 block will be safe with decent management. just dont get too boost happy.

 

I believe a ls vtec will be more reliable under boost but crv-tec will do fine as long as you have some good tuning. tuning is always the key.

 

i just like to squeeze in some more info if you didnt know already
b20b has 8.8 CR and
b20z has 9.X CR

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bruceHungLO &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

thats right u are no guru. low boost application on a b20 block will be safe with decent management. just dont get too boost happy. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Most b20's survive until 6-7psi...from all posts Ive read on the subject........in other words...search!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMFreak &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i just like to squeeze in some more info if you didnt know already
b20b has 8.8 CR and
b20z has 9.X CR

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9:2.1 for b20z

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Touch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm no engine guru, but I know the b20's definately have to be sleeved for any turbo application. the cylinder walls are thin.</TD></TR></TABLE>

apparenly this is what i have been told by a few...i dont know from experience .. but this is what i have HEARD

 

I think your getting alot of your B20 turbo info from media back a few years.....at least it sounds like it.
FYI: an LS engine (B18A, B18B) shares many parts with the B20z and B20b engines. They are really the same engine except bore size and a few other items.
You are shooting for 300hp, with any stock bottom end tuning will be important. If I was to choose, I'd stick to an LS engine over a B20 engine. It is proven that you can make good power on an 81mm bore. Spend more time on your engine managment, tuning, and turbo set-up. Good luck

If it helps I currently run an LS engine with a 84.5mm sleeved bore (basically a B20 shortblock) with a Vtec cyl head. Turbo of course.....
You can make it as simple or as complicated as you want.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by J337_UNIT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

apparenly this is what i have been told by a few...i dont know from experience .. but this is what i have HEARD</TD></TR></TABLE>

Mine went at 10psi. Ran great, then just started idling funny, drove it for a little while longer, then a huge smoke cloud came out the back, and it would barely run...

You can see in the pic, where it cracked, looks like a design flaw.

 

just the limits of the b series w/ stock sleeves, IMO

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pdiggitydogg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just the limits of the b series w/ stock sleeves, IMO</TD></TR></TABLE>

ive seen them take way more for many runs . honda blocks are too inconsistant to say they all will go at 10 lbs......

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hella_JDM &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

ive seen them take way more for many runs . honda blocks are too inconsistant to say they all will go at 10 lbs......</TD></TR></TABLE>

we'll see so far me and my buddy are both b20 boosted and he's been afc hack untuned for about 2 months no problems. jsut run it pig rich until u get tuning

 

ima planning to go boost in a few weeks on my b20. so far i've heard 10lbs is death, but 7-8 will be ok, if ur not too pedal happy.

btw Mase will be tunning myc ar for 10lbs, but daily will be 7-8 and track...maybe 9?

 

The B20Z actually has 9.6 compression. (irev210 can verify this) The B20B has 8.8. As long as you have a good fuel sysytem you can boost to what you have it tuned for. B20turbohic is running 15psi daily on his B20 with stock internals. But he has it tuned with ZDYNE. As for more info on the CRVTEC, type it into the search function and then click archived and you'll get a ton of results.

Good luck

Blaze

 

b20's sleeves will crack sooner and easier. This is not to say its not worthwhile, it simply is not as strong as the 81mm counterparts's sleeves. Personally I would rather boost a b18b or a b16a if I had a low budget.

 

check this out: http://www.beeyond-engineering.com on B20/vtecs TURBOs

they also have a ls/vtec on full stock block and vtec head doing 13-14psi on stock ecu with a custom turbo chip t3/t4 custom turbo kit. the b20/vtec is very fast!!! The ls/vtec is also, but with smaller slicks it only turned in 12.2@115mph on 22x8x13.... They have a few other fast cars that are tuned the same way......seems like they still use FMU's. Guess if they are used correctly it's probably not a bad choice. People have asked what combos they use, but it's all kept confidential!!!

 

a stock b20 boosted to 300hp will not last very long...

how long do you plan on keeping this motor of yours? if my guess is right, you'd be having to boost somewhere in the 14-17psi range to make that kind of power...and with that much boost on that motor, things will start to wear and tear. not saying it's not possible, just saying it's not worth it IMO.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94goldjungsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">b20's sleeves will crack sooner and easier. This is not to say its not worthwhile, it simply is not as strong as the 81mm counterparts's sleeves. Personally I would rather boost a b18b or a b16a if I had a low budget.</TD></TR></TABLE>

hey if the sleeves crack u can always find a 1rst gen b16 for time being and build a monster crvtec sleeved and built block

 

My car has had a boosted japanese B20b in it for almost 2 years. I'm boosting anywhere from 8-10 lbs. So far no problems, running a hondata and 550 cc injectors

 

Re: B20 Turbo... (J337_UNIT) » 7:12 PM 6/29/2004 Reply Edit

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it looks to me like you had a slightly blown head gasket that could be why you cracked sleeves at only 10psi or maybe it was tuning


Quote, originally posted by J337_UNIT »
apparenly this is what i have been told by a few...i dont know from experience .. but this is what i have HEARD


Mine went at 10psi. Ran great, then just started idling funny, drove it for a little while longer, then a huge smoke cloud came out the back, and it would barely run...

You can see in the pic, where it cracked, looks like a design flaw.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1slowcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Re: B20 Turbo... (J337_UNIT) » 7:12 PM 6/29/2004 Reply Edit

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it looks to me like you had a slightly blown head gasket that could be why you cracked sleeves at only 10psi or maybe it was tuning


Quote, originally posted by J337_UNIT »
apparenly this is what i have been told by a few...i dont know from experience .. but this is what i have HEARD


Mine went at 10psi. Ran great, then just started idling funny, drove it for a little while longer, then a huge smoke cloud came out the back, and it would barely run...

You can see in the pic, where it cracked, looks like a design flaw.


</TD></TR></TABLE>

so ur saying that the guy's b20 was flawed to begin with? or the b20 design itself is flawed.

 

U have to remeber B20 pistons are wider and the sleeves are not as thinck

 

doesnt mean that they will crack under boost just means itll crack under higher amounts of boost lol. . they will suffice under good tuning.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by djdxm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Mine went at 10psi. Ran great, then just started idling funny, drove it for a little while longer, then a huge smoke cloud came out the back, and it would barely run...

You can see in the pic, where it cracked, looks like a design flaw.


</TD></TR></TABLE>

Like I said... I'm no guru but...
better safe than sorry with that kind of investment.