Wassup guys, well in about a week or two my gsr bottom end will be ready from the machine shop and i will be piecing my motor back together.

I have a few questions i was hoping could be answered for me. Got the bottom end rebuilt, pistons, rods, seals, all gaskets, bearings, etc. Got the crank polished and nitrated. Nothing to do with the bottom end but, i also went with a new clutch.

I know the ideal break in period for a clutch is 500 but that doesn't really matter because i'm breaking in the motor which is about 1500 miles. Now my question is, when will it be safe to open vtec and how should i increase rpm as more miles go by with the break in?

Also what should i look for/watch carefully while i'm breaking it in, should oil be changed a few times in the first 1500 miles?

Now i have a few questions about tuning. As soon as the motor is broken in i plan on going to the dyno and having it tuned. I'm running a chipped p28 with a vafc. What can i do to prep my motor before i go tuning besides the obvious checking my oil and coolant levels?

Any comments and or opinions are welcome, i'd like to do this the right way because i spent alot of money and wouldn't want to blow my motor


Thanks

 

thanks for the link

 

anyone else?

 

 

**** that ****. you might as well be driving miss daisy.

1. turn the car over without spark to build the oil pressure.

2. then run the engine for 5 minutes, or until at operating temperature.

3. pull spark plugs out, see if it is running lean.

4. start engine back up, and drive.

5. first run should not go past 50% throttle, thru all gears.

6. after running up thru all gears, run back down thru the gears, downshifting.

7. take the bitch to redline. closely watch your gauges, and listen to the engine.

ive watched guys build 2-stroke dirtbike race engines that when the engine was built they simply tuned it across the band, revved the **** out of it, then gave it to the rider to race with. ive built honda engines where i ran it for 5 minutes, checked for leaks, then went out and ran it just like i would if it had 12k, 36k, 72k miles. ive seen freshly built, very tight all-motor engines run hard even when they were running lean, which can be read with a heated o2 sensor and an ohm meter.

 

7. take the bitch to redline. closely watch your gauges, and listen to the engine.

 

check this site.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by import_trung &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">check this site.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm</TD></TR></TABLE>

good link, thanks bro!!

 

us tuners...kid, you couldnt tune a ****** flute.

that ************ jeff doesnt know ****. he is no smarter than the dumbass at your local honda dealership who will tell you to "drive with care" during the first 1000 miles. you want to stretch the rod out, seat the rings, and loosen the engine up within the first 50 miles.

you aint a tuner...ive been taught by guys that built race winning engines...that jeff bitch dont know ****. **** importbuilders!

 

^^^ alittle hostility there? lol

 

I am in total agreement about driving the motor a little hard to properly break it in according to Motoman. However I have a new clutch - Clutchmasters Stage 4 (metalic) and Clutchmasters recommends a gentle 500 mile break in. This is obviously contracting to my engine break in strategy.

What do I do? It is safe to ignore the clutch break in and run it to redline at WOT a few times but shifting slowly and gently?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RABHonda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">us tuners...kid, you couldnt tune a ****** flute.

that ************ jeff doesnt know ****. he is no smarter than the dumbass at your local honda dealership who will tell you to "drive with care" during the first 1000 miles. you want to stretch the rod out, seat the rings, and loosen the engine up within the first 50 miles.

you aint a tuner...ive been taught by guys that built race winning engines...that jeff bitch dont know ****. **** importbuilders!</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

no, break the clutch in properly. if you don't the life of the clutch is decreased. there are hundreds of different theories on how to properly break a motor in. it's gonna be up to you which you trust.

 

the way it was explained to me.. "do you think they are going to go drive a full drag car around for 1000 miles on the street? no, most race engines never see 1000 miles just running on the track.." depends on what pistons and rings you are running also.. i've been told that most aftermarket rings are really only made to last 50k+ miles, whereas honda/oe rings are made to last 150k+ and require a much longer break in.. but honestly.. i have been pondering your question for years.. its all in who you trust.... my LS with pr3 pistons and oe rings was BEAT after initial starting/idle period and i never had any problems.. but i wasn't so happy when i found out the builder did that with my car...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Muckman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am in total agreement about driving the motor a little hard to properly break it in according to Motoman. However I have a new clutch - Clutchmasters Stage 4 (metalic) and Clutchmasters recommends a gentle 500 mile break in. This is obviously contracting to my engine break in strategy.

What do I do? It is safe to ignore the clutch break in and run it to redline at WOT a few times but shifting slowly and gently?</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's more like 5 mile break in period. When i got lightweight flywheel and act clutch,
I couldn't resist. No problems (knocking on wood). I like rabhonda's view on this.
i'll probably do the same with my next swap.