i am currently putting together a dohc zc and i cant find aftermarket parts for it anywhere.are any of you guys running dohc zcs? if you are could you tell me where you found parts at thanx.

 

Quite simply, you reuse a lot of OEM ****

Usual build consists of decking block 0.055" and milling head 0.030", use a set of cam gears to dial your mechanical timing back where it should be. That calcs out to 11.7:1 static CR. Sounds excessive, but your quench pads still have ~0.070" clearance (meaning they still arent being used properly, too much slop by 0.010-0.020" or so) and the otherwise excessive piston valve clearance has been cut down to what the average B16/B18C has.

If you use reground cams, just drop a set of B18A or B18B valves and seats into your head. If using stock cams, you'll only want to use LS intake valves and 3G Prelude exhaust valves; LS exhaust valves are 0.050" taller above the keeper notch, which offsets regournd valvetrain geometry but is bad when using stock ZC cams. Using *aftermarket* LS valvesprings is as easy as dressing the cam webbing down a few thousandths so that the springs clear as they are a few thousandths wider across than the ZC units. UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES should you try to use stock LS valvesprings; oddly enough, the ZC valvespring is superior to the LS.

I've gotten a way to sleaze LS onto D-series pistons, but you might just want to order a set of Scat/Eagle/cheap rods and have Tom J @ Arias modify your OEM piston to fit them ($11/per, includes spiralocs). I'm a big fan of reusing stock pistons if they are in good shape, and you can remove them from the pressed fit pin Honda rod without damaging them if you are savvy.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by J. Davis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Quite simply, you reuse a lot of OEM ****

Usual build consists of decking block 0.055" and milling head 0.030", use a set of cam gears to dial your mechanical timing back where it should be. That calcs out to 11.7:1 static CR. Sounds excessive, but your quench pads still have ~0.070" clearance (meaning they still arent being used properly, too much slop by 0.010-0.020" or so) and the otherwise excessive piston valve clearance has been cut down to what the average B16/B18C has.

If you use reground cams, just drop a set of B18A or B18B valves and seats into your head. If using stock cams, you'll only want to use LS intake valves and 3G Prelude exhaust valves; LS exhaust valves are 0.050" taller above the keeper notch, which offsets regournd valvetrain geometry but is bad when using stock ZC cams. Using *aftermarket* LS valvesprings is as easy as dressing the cam webbing down a few thousandths so that the springs clear as they are a few thousandths wider across than the ZC units. UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES should you try to use stock LS valvesprings; oddly enough, the ZC valvespring is superior to the LS.

I've gotten a way to sleaze LS onto D-series pistons, but you might just want to order a set of Scat/Eagle/cheap rods and have Tom J @ Arias modify your OEM piston to fit them ($11/per, includes spiralocs). I'm a big fan of reusing stock pistons if they are in good shape, and you can remove them from the pressed fit pin Honda rod without damaging them if you are savvy.</TD></TR></TABLE>

dam that is some good info....
also http://www.homemadeturbo.com did a build up of a turbo ZC&lt; with some aftermarket parts. check that out. i think its under the tech projects or something like that.

doesnt http://www.dh-racing have some ZC stuff to?

 

i'm pretty sure crower stocks cams for the dohc zc

 

Almost all the cam grind companies have grinds for dohc zc's web,jg,exospeed

 

I had a recent discussion with a gentleman who's name slips my mind at the moment who was recommending a cam regrinding company called Delta. Seems the guys at the ZC Resource like Delta cams pretty well. I have no experience, but he linked me to a few threads.

 

j.davis that info you gave me,did you do this to a zc befor? what kind of power did it add and what did it cost? thanx for the help

 

he's in the process of doing all this to a ZC with his new shop

should be mean as hell when it finally debuts

i, personally, can't wait

 

That's because there really isn't any. Thats an oem replacment motor. Just head work and nitrous is about your only option

 

There are alot of companies comming on board to help out the ZC fans out there. JG just came out with quite a few parts you may be interested in, as well as endyn will make you anything your heart desires. Pistons are same side as any d-series you just have to take into consideration the combustion chamber volume and deck height. Rods are same. JG makes single and dual valve springs with either magnesium or titanium retainers. Supertech has valves now available. Any place that grinds cams will be able to provide a more agressive cam profile delta, crower, crane, jg, exospeed, gude, ef-1, web, are a few ( though I reccomend one with experance with zc's) As far as I know only 2 places are currently offering zc cam gears JG ($110)pr and Jun ($300+)pr. Alot of peps dont thing there are many parts for the zc, they just need to get out an look more. About the only thing i can see the zc lacking is a quality billet cam company.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4door93civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i am currently putting together a dohc zc and i cant find aftermarket parts for it anywhere.are any of you guys running dohc zcs? if you are could you tell me where you found parts at thanx.</TD></TR></TABLE>

ask some folks in the EF/Civic forum to get more info

 

i did ask in the ef forum and got no response.

 

will the ls rods fit right in or do they need some machining?

 

i am working on a zc dohc motor for one of my customers and aftermarket parts are hard to find but a lot of that stuff is interchangable with other makes .it should be a pretty pimped out set up. give me a call ive got access to some parts (323)528-7653 my name is ricky

 

thanx but im just gonna do all the **** that j.davis said works.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by J. Davis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had a recent discussion with a gentleman who's name slips my mind at the moment who was recommending a cam regrinding company called Delta. Seems the guys at the ZC Resource like Delta cams pretty well. I have no experience, but he linked me to a few threads.</TD></TR></TABLE>


single cam non-vtec guys love delta regrinds... they are very inexpensive and seem to hold up quite well.

 

I have a set of DELTA's 272's on the way for my zc. Check out http://www.thezcr.com for some more info on the dohc ZC. I have some pictures posted under the gallery there under TWIZDEDTUNING. I was the one talking to j.davis about the delta's FYI.

 

i have a DOHC ZC , and win i bought it had had one STR cam gear on the intake side? what reasoning could there be behind this and also , i want to get another if for nothing more than looks. does anyone know were to find part numbers or really what can fit this D-series freakiod of an awesome engine?

 

if you were going for more than 6.5 pounds, what would you recommend?

 

I'd recommend 8.625 pounds as your next step after 6.5... any less than that and your JDM VTEC doesn't work correctly, and any more without using synthetic blinker fluid and your canooter valve leaks!

Uhm, you won't get a 90 hp jump from 6.5 psi unless you've got a pretty slick setup and even then I'm doubtful. D-series rods are crummy, so are the headgaskets, but you can work with them if you have some finesse. I was running my buddy's D16Z6 at 14 psi for the last six months until it blew, we were surprised the crummy D-series transmission didn't go first.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by J. Davis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'd recommend 8.625 pounds as your next step after 6.5... any less than that and your JDM VTEC doesn't work correctly, and any more without using synthetic blinker fluid and your canooter valve leaks!

Uhm, you won't get a 90 hp jump from 6.5 psi unless you've got a pretty slick setup and even then I'm doubtful. D-series rods are crummy, so are the headgaskets, but you can work with them if you have some finesse. I was running my buddy's D16Z6 at 14 psi for the last six months until it blew, we were surprised the crummy D-series transmission didn't go first.</TD></TR></TABLE>

soo umm ya back to my question, what would you do along the lines of internals, valetrain, ect... if you were wanting to run more than 6.5(not on a daily basis but when u wnated it). since everything d-series is so crappy?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 89HFlikeamutha &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">soo umm ya back to my question, what would you do along the lines of internals, valetrain, ect... if you were wanting to run more than 6.5(not on a daily basis but when u wnated it). since everything d-series is so crappy?</TD></TR></TABLE>

What does 6.5 psi have to do with the power you make, the amount of heat retained in your combustion chamber which encourages knock, etc? "Boost" is a sign of restriction, not power, unless everyone has the exact same setup. Wander over to the Uberdata forum, the Hondata forum, the AEMPower forum, etc, and see hoe a change of turbine housing AR *drastically* effects how much fuel you require "per psi," and ponder how a bunch of minute changes in flow snowball into wildly different setups that "look the same" and "run the same boost."

I'm a big fan of stock block boost. If you upgrade anything it should be the rods, they are weak past 200 whp. D-rods suck as badly as D-transmissions, but the rest of the engine is pretty decent for boost.

I could write you up a big fat list of other upgrades... about how stiffer valvesprings help transfer heat away from valve faces, how using the proper alloy of stainless helps conduct heat from the valve face, and how both these things keep intake valve face cool and thereby lessens the valve face's tendency to superheat incoming fuel/air charge, hold in heat, and increase cylinder temps leading to knock. About proper cam selection and cam timing, how preventing overlap vs encouraging overlap have their places in FI depending on how you wish to set up your engine, your goals, your desired power levels. About requiring a good P&P to sidestep pressure-ratio bottlenecks of most D-heads used with the most popular T4 compressor maps so you can exceed 380-400 whp without running off your compressor map. Big plenum intakes. Proper turdbo manifold design, which fyi is not a tubular mani feeding a turbine restriction.

Short story real long, I could write you a huge list of **** to spend money on, but none of it means anything to the average guy looking to go turbo safely for their first time, or just want a street car. Recipe is simple: take ZC, add boost, hit 200 whp. At that point you'll have to start working on your suspension. Get used to the working on suspension theme, you spend more time there than building power. Once you get the car running, look for simple upgrades like stock block w/ pistons/rods and headstuds and make sure you turbo manifold/turbo are higher flowing less restrictive pieces.

...and most people don't like hearing it, but ZC is king dick of the D-series. If you hear a little scorn when I talk about them, well, I hate cars in general. Just like most guys hate their gf sometimes. Exactly like that. Love, hate, drama, money spent, money wasted, hard work, dissappointment, that split second when you're on top of the world, etc.