ITS and H3 GSR needs a new exhaust system
As many of you know the GSR is being transformed and it is now time to put on a new header and exhaust combination. I can't believe it, but the stock 95 exhaust is still on the car and working!
Anyways, what are people running for exhaust setups on their Honda/Acura racecars? Most tracks these days have db restrictions, so I imagine finding a muffler that is quiet enough as well as least restrictive is best. Please submit your ideas!
Also what are people using for headers? Is the DC JDM 4-1 enough or are people going all out with SMSP or Hytech. I would thing torque would be better than peak hp, but then again we are always revving the **** out of our poor Honda motors, so maybe peak hp is better. Any opinions?
Thanks in advance!
Anyways, what are people running for exhaust setups on their Honda/Acura racecars? Most tracks these days have db restrictions, so I imagine finding a muffler that is quiet enough as well as least restrictive is best. Please submit your ideas!
Also what are people using for headers? Is the DC JDM 4-1 enough or are people going all out with SMSP or Hytech. I would thing torque would be better than peak hp, but then again we are always revving the **** out of our poor Honda motors, so maybe peak hp is better. Any opinions?
Thanks in advance!
I should probably also mention that the car will be towned shortly, so street sounds and emissions is no longer a problem.
I have a H3 Integra and I have no idea what the exhaust is or what it measures at on the db meter. I just took it to my exhaust guy and told him to call me when he was done.
I *think* it's a single glasspack. I know it's a rear exit and it's 2.5" diameter. It's leaking thanks to an off now - when I get it reworked, Imma get one of those Flowmaster "Hushpower" mufflers and a downturn in the middle of the car. The earplugs thing is getting irritating.
I *think* it's a single glasspack. I know it's a rear exit and it's 2.5" diameter. It's leaking thanks to an off now - when I get it reworked, Imma get one of those Flowmaster "Hushpower" mufflers and a downturn in the middle of the car. The earplugs thing is getting irritating.
I used a DC header for a couple of years but found improvement with the Delta Group (AKA Puckett) header. IIRC after Phil wrecked my old car and destroyed the header he decided to get another Delta Group piece.
I hear the JDM ITR pieces also work well and can be had cheap, but I have no first hand experience.
My exhaust was a straight 2.5 inch pipe with a fitting for the o2 sensor. I used a dynomax bullet muffler and an adjustable turndown so I could point it away from sound control. On colder days it would register in the low 100s but most of the time it stayed in the mid 90s.
The trick is to point the turndown between the floorpan and the gas tank (the stock exhaust runs through this area to the right side of the car). That way you get minimum reverb off the bottom of the car and its quieter inside.
Too many people point their turndowns at the ground, which is a no-no. Thats really really loud in the cockpit.
I hear the JDM ITR pieces also work well and can be had cheap, but I have no first hand experience.
My exhaust was a straight 2.5 inch pipe with a fitting for the o2 sensor. I used a dynomax bullet muffler and an adjustable turndown so I could point it away from sound control. On colder days it would register in the low 100s but most of the time it stayed in the mid 90s.
The trick is to point the turndown between the floorpan and the gas tank (the stock exhaust runs through this area to the right side of the car). That way you get minimum reverb off the bottom of the car and its quieter inside.
Too many people point their turndowns at the ground, which is a no-no. Thats really really loud in the cockpit.
I don't race on the track just yet, but from what I have noticed while at the tracks, most people use whats on the market. I have noticed alot of Skunk2 and Apexi on cars. I would image these work out pretty decent, and don't have problems with the Db level. Im not sure if these are cat-back systems, but anything would work out just fine. --as far as piping. most cat back systems are 2.5'' in diam. so you can go off of that. Most exhaust shops will mandrel bend you the pipe and you install it for a pretty inexpensive route to go. then mated with a 'universal' skunk2 would be the way to go in my eyes.
check out http://www.inlinefour.com or http://www.wholehyper.com they both have pretty decent prices, and also on wholehyper.com look at the specials, you can find open box items really cheap. they go fast though...
anyone else have anything to add??
check out http://www.inlinefour.com or http://www.wholehyper.com they both have pretty decent prices, and also on wholehyper.com look at the specials, you can find open box items really cheap. they go fast though...
anyone else have anything to add??
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Im using a Comptech header for a GSR on my 91 Integra for ITA. I had the O2 sensor extended and a bung put on the exhaust, which is custom 2.5" with two Magnaflow mufflers, one in the tunnel right under the shift linkage and one at the back right after the rear suspension, with a straight pipe out the rear bumper. The exhaust is pretty much the best setup for my car from what Ive been told as far as power/sound levels, I chose the Comptech for better mid range/top end power, some people like the JDM ITR header also, which has a 2.5" collector.
I have been looking at buying a DC JDM 4-1 with a 2.5" collector. Re-welding the flange and removing the spot welds inside the header for improved flow and bolting on some kind of straight pipe with a muffler and perhpas a resonator with a downturn. How does that sound?
I have a 95 LS with Stock header and strait pipe all the way back to the stock location (I have audio/video if you would like to here it). At sears point my car only registered 94-95 dB.
What kind of prices have you been receiving from muffler shops for an exhaust? I got a quote for $300 for just a B-pipe with resonator. They also claimed you can only do crush bends, so I am currently looking for a used system. I will consider looking at other shops if my experience (Monro) was not typical (ie. $$$).
As for sound, I'd really like to know how many dB my car is running at. Since my entire exhaust was ripped off about 5 weeks ago, there's no resonator, muffler, or piping. It's F'ing awful. I'm thinking around 130dB (using the 120dB FSAE car as a comparison), which is not even humerous driving from Indiana to Ohio/Michigan every weekend...I apologize if you live near me.
As for sound, I'd really like to know how many dB my car is running at. Since my entire exhaust was ripped off about 5 weeks ago, there's no resonator, muffler, or piping. It's F'ing awful. I'm thinking around 130dB (using the 120dB FSAE car as a comparison), which is not even humerous driving from Indiana to Ohio/Michigan every weekend...I apologize if you live near me.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GSpeedR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">They also claimed you can only do crush bends. </TD></TR></TABLE>
This is true, I don't know of any muffler shops that can do a mandrel bend because the equipment to do so is extremely expensive.
This is true, I don't know of any muffler shops that can do a mandrel bend because the equipment to do so is extremely expensive.
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