Hey all,

I've noticed this a couple of times in the past, but today it actually got to the point where my car won't turn off. When I start the car it's cool, but when I turn the car off it actually *coughs* and doesn't stop running. I'm talking like 100 rpms maybe; just enough to keep it barely running. Does anyone know why it may be doing this? I'm going to try to adjust the idle speed because I think it's a little high, but other than that I have no clue.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Regards,
Dustin J. ***
Diapsid

 

idle speed wouldnt be it... its something with ur ignition... an electrical problem or somethin... i was driving a customers car out one time, and i just pulled the key out of the ignition while it was still in the on position....it was pretty funny...kept runnin and everything.

 

Thanks for the information. I thought that's what it may be. Oh, I know no one would look here for this information, but I thought someone might search for it. If you leave the hazard lights either on or in the half-way position, your blinkers won't work anymore. It even states this in the Honda Owners Manual.

Thanks again,
Dustin J. ***
Diapsid

 

Just a few words.

Dunno if your 87 is FI or Carb, but if it's carb, read on:

If it drops to about 200 RPM's and runs real rough, it's probably dieseling, enough fuel getting dumped in the combustion chamber and is igniting after the compression stroke, even though the key is off. Note that this is only if you have a carberateur.

This is from a rich fuel mixture, it may be leaking past a gasket, or the float is damaged, carb could have an air leak. You should check the color of your spark plugs to get a little better idea of the mixture (black is rich, white is lean, or was it the other way around?

In one case, the lower plate on my 81 Accord carb was loose and the rubber gasket that sits between the carb and the plate was partially sucked in, allowing too much air in.

OR your secondary throttle plate is sticking open. That happened to me, had to take the carb out and clean off all the varnish build up. 200k+ miles will do that from time to time.

Good luck

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IanCT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it's probably dieseling,</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's what it sounds like to me.

 

Thanks guys. I'll check the carbeurator (sp?) tomorrow and check the float. My idle is a little high so I have to get in and adjust that anyway.

Once again, thanks!

 

Before you go in and start adjusting the idle, you need to make sure there are no vacuum leaks, kinda hard with these engines, but take a good eyeballs look around and look for disconnected hoses, check the ignition timing, spark plugs/wires, cap/rotor, especially your timing. It could be more than likely out of adjustment than your idle set screw. That, and loose/cracked vacuum hoses.

 

Damn; now I have to learn how to adjust my timing... Oh well. Anyone know of any good places to start learning? I do have the Haynes repair manual to my car...

Thanks again,
Dustin

 

The Helms manual seems to be the way to go, I have a Haynes manual which is a POS !

Our '88 Accord (Automatic w/ the carburetor) does the same thing. After driving for at least 20 minutes(this varies) the idle RPM will increase to 2.6k; of course the engine cannot be shut down with out "running on" or Dieseling.


I cannot cause the car to stall by adjusting the throttle stop all the way out - as is possible with most cars .
The dealers seem to be unable to fix this problem - they know about fuel injection but not the obsolete carburetors with the horrific vacuum system.

Adrian
97 and 88 Accords
89 Volvo 740