I know an incorrectly centered steering rack can cause issues with different levels of bump steer from left to right, but can a steering wheel come off center by itself, when you hit a curb?

A few months ago, I hit a curb with the LF wheel, and replaced a bent steel wheel, LCA, radius rod, and knuckle. The camber is now better than it was before, and it drives quite nicely on the road. However, I have 1.5* caster on the left, and 2.5* on the right. I THINK I put the thicker outer radius rod bushing where the thinner, inner radius rod bushing should have gone, causing the radius rod to "move" back the equivalent of roughly 2 shims (1* worth of caster). I'm checking this out tomorrow, and hope that was it (if so, I'll fix it).

Also, you can definitely see how the swaybar moved during the collision, as you can see the grease marks on the bar itself from the bushing. Perhaps I should consider replacing the front sway bar?

Anyways, the only problem I have, is that every time I accelerate hard away from a stop, the steering wheel wants to turn a *few* degrees left. As the front of the car comes back down and the front tires get more grip, the steering wheel stops and slowly comes back to center as the car moves straight, as it should...

I also noticed that as I jack the front of the car up, the wheels turn left a little. However, with the engine running, and the wheel centered, they do not turn left by themselves (read: no memory steer)

Do you think a bad tie rod end is to blame? A reputable alignment shop noted my steering rack was fine, and I felt pretty confident in the car's overall repair for about a month, but now this slight self steer at "launch" is pissing me off...


Modified by LX4CYL at 5:30 AM 6/25/2004

 

Now that I think of it, I think I noticed this problem after I replaced my lower ball joint and the brake pads at the same time...

If the radius rod bushings are in fact installed correctly, and the swaybar isnt bent, I will definitely get the frame checked. I just havent had time...

I also need to count the number of turns from center to each lock just to make sure the rack is in fact centered...

 

Well:

1. The radius rod bushings were put in the right order, but there was still a 1/8" thick shim on there, so I removed it. According to the service manual, one 1/8" thick shim decreases caster by 35', or 0.583 degrees, so I think I have close to 2.1* caster on the left, and 2.5* caster on the right.

2. I counted the same number of turns lock to lock, so the wheel is centered correctly

3. The swaybar doesnt seem bent, but I never actually took it off, to look over it. It seems fine I guess

4. The problem with the wheel turning a few degrees left on hard acceletation from a stop seems to have been reduced greatly. Although now, I think I'm going to have to do another alignment since it seems as the the toe is a little off...