...and I've read all of threads I found in this forum and look forward to doing it soon! I've only got a few questions.

First of all, I only plan on ccorrecting my toe, since my car is stock. Would adjusting toe create a "bind" while the tires are on the ground the entire time? Would I need to use a set of slip plates, such as these?

http://racerpartswholesale.com/align1.htm

also, for future reference, does everyone like the caster/camber guage described in this thread?

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=466001

Finally, my Accord does have a wider track in the front than in the rear, and I know how to "square the box" as described here:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=267237

Are there any other tips/tricks that you all would like to share? Should I try using toe plates along with the strings?




Modified by LX4CYL at 3:40 AM 6/25/2004

 

TO prevent binding of the suspension I just roll my car back and forth a couple of times. Although the slip plate would save you some time.

 

ah, I'll just get the slip plates anyways. All of these tools will pay for themselves after a few alignments...

 

duh, I could just use 2 metal plates with grease between them. DIY slip plate!

Also, do you guys know of a cheap turnplate I can use to measure how many degrees I've turned the wheel?


Modified by LX4CYL at 6:35 AM 6/26/2004

 

I do these all the time, with no special equipment. It is however, an extremely iterative trial and error process........

Roughly, here's how:

1. Center steering wheel. Leverage something to hold it straight. I've found a rattle can with the cap on works great and will fit on most cars, leveraged upright between the bottom of the wheel and the seat.

2. With a helper to hold the stupid end, or something to wedge it in place, use a measuring tape to get the dimensions of track at the front and rear of the tire, using reference points on the tread as close to center as possible.

3. Do your math. This is your starting toe setting.

4. Assuming everything is straight a square with no funny pulls to one side to begin with, adjust each side equally. Remember you are going to have to lengthen or shorten the tie rod depending on toe-in or -out, and which side of the car you're on. I forget where I found it, but a full turn on a tie rod end is supposedly equal to about 1/4" of adjustment.

5. Go for test drive. If all is well, you're done. If not, repeat from step 1.

If this is to fix a pull, do it the same way but vary side to side. Say if the car drifts right, then add more toe-in to the right, but you still will have to conversely probably twist a little toe-out on the left to keep the steering wheel straight. See what I mean about trial and error? <Emphasis on error part>

I've been doing this long enough I can usually get what I want in one shot, but on the occassions that I don't, it is a 5 or 6 set up operation. YMMV.

 

My cars got some serious track differences.. i cant get the stupid box setup

 

Hey do you remember something?

If you are looking at the driver's side, which way do you turn the turnbuckle for toe in and toe out?

How about the passenger side? For some reason I must be doplic and don't know clockwise from counterclockwise when I am under the car.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Want2race &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My cars got some serious track differences.. i cant get the stupid box setup </TD></TR></TABLE>

if the front and rear track widths are different, what's the problem? The rear wheels will be further away from the string on each side than the front, but you can still do good toe meaurements...

In my case, I'm just going to set my toe to 0 all around, so it shouldn't be that hard...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CivicSiRacer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey do you remember something?

If you are looking at the driver's side, which way do you turn the turnbuckle for toe in and toe out?

How about the passenger side? For some reason I must be doplic and don't know clockwise from counterclockwise when I am under the car.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm thinking if it's anything like a regular nut and bolt, it's the opposite since you're facing the wheel from the inside out, so it's clockwise to toe in, and counter-clockwise for toe out...

 

Good luck getting the box square!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by siisgood00 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Good luck getting the box square!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks! I read about your unfortunate experience and hope I won't suffer the same fate

I just checked my last alignment sheet and I have some toe in on all 4 wheels

 

How are you guys squaring the box? I usually go from the ends of the axles in front and the rear hub cover caps in the rear. Also for toe i use the edge of the rim and not the tire as someone mentioned.

I also found that rolling the car back and forth after adjustments threw the whole thing off and you have to resquare the box. Slip plates might be a good investment.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sackdz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Slip plates might be a good investment.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I've seen guys use sheets of newspaper stacked up.

 

Or a plastic grocery bag.