i have been told 3 diff part numbers from ARP

i have a b18a block, b16a head, what studs do i use?

Please dont reply if you are not 100% certain. I know some of u here got this swap with head studs...

 

Get them for the GSR/ITR.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WAFFLES &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Get them for the GSR/ITR.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

ARP # 208-4303 (GSR headstuds) .

 

Use ARP part number 208-4303. I am 100% percent because i am reading the number right off the box.

 

You may want to consider AEBS GSR studs. Very nice too.

Sellers such as Camp1320.com and Kteller.com can help you if you are interested.

These are killer! I heard GE is coming out with some too.

 

sold arps for aebs..

 

ARP studs for a gsr or type r

 

I personally don't think it matters whether you get ARP or AERB, seeing as how I've never heard of a failure attributed to either. I use the ARP GSR head studs on my ls/vtec and they work great.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chad174 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I personally don't think it matters whether you get ARP or AERB, seeing as how I've never heard of a failure attributed to either. I use the ARP GSR head studs on my ls/vtec and they work great. </TD></TR></TABLE>
If you have never heard of someone lifting a head gasket, then you dont know to many people who tune cars. Failure doesnt mean a broken stud when it comes to this kinda part, it's having the head gasket lift or let go. I run arp's, but I will switch to the aebs one's on my next build or use the ball bearing trick with my arp's.

 

ARP part# 208-4303 GSR studs

 

someone told me LS head studs are fine with LS/vtec. IS this true??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr.DC2TurBo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">someone told me LS head studs are fine with LS/vtec. IS this true??</TD></TR></TABLE>

no

 

i am going to be running golden eagles head studs in my new b20/vtec. dfe enterprises (donf) on the board is doing the engine..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by non-VTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

no</TD></TR></TABLE>
yea i was told they can be used except the middle 2 longer ones need to be gsr studs.

 

LS/B20's, have 8 short bolts, and 2 long.

you can use 10 "short" bolts on an ls/vtec

i believe its completely pointless to use studs in a n/a application. what are people worried about? lifting the head? LOL.... people make 400+ hp on stock bolts, so why would an n/a engine ever need studs?

i know why! see "3" below.

-----&gt;http://dictionary.reference.com/search?q=overkill

 

It's also nice to not have to worry about stripping out the threads in the block during multiple removals and installations. I'd rather spend the $100 up front and have that extra piece of mind and eliminate that one potential weak point/problem.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RenoRacing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's also nice to not have to worry about stripping out the threads in the block during multiple removals and installations. I'd rather spend the $100 up front and have that extra piece of mind and eliminate that one potential weak point/problem.</TD></TR></TABLE>


9 yrs and counting..........ZERO head stripping incedences.

 

gsr arp studs y0

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TECH43 RACING INC. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


9 yrs and counting..........ZERO head stripping incedences.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Who said anything about heads stripping? He's talking threads.. How many old ls motors have you worked on in those 9 years? Personally I have one block that lost threads, but have seen alot of guys strip all 10 when pulling the heads off of old ls motors. Thats with the proper removal sequence.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tbone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Who said anything about heads stripping? He's talking threads.. How many old ls motors have you worked on in those 9 years? Personally I have one block that lost threads, but have seen alot of guys strip all 10 when pulling the heads off of old ls motors. Thats with the proper removal sequence.</TD></TR></TABLE>


thats what i meant. i've worked on quite alot of ls engines, and i've had zero thread problems. i've fixed problems for others with inserts, but i believe it was from poor core block selection (overheated bad).

if you've seen "alot" of guys strip "all 10" threads using the proper sequence, then i guess you guys have REALLY bad luck, because I have never experienced this like you have (frequency)

 

Good point on the overheating though.. I forgot about that one.. it could explain alot. When I say I have seen alot I mean at least 7-8 times in 9 years, not including the one on my old block. I consider that alot.

 

i hear ya....

i know that once in a while, block threads go bad, but my point was, aside from damaged threads. n/a cars do not need studs!

you and i both know..that heads don't lift in n/a applications. i see all kinds of setups all over this board, where guys have MAYBE, 190-200 whp n/a engines, and they are using main and head studs! lol.....

i've watched FWD cars go 8.1 , and it always used stock head bolts! 40+ lbs of boost.

btw, one can usually tell that a block has been overheaten really bad, when the factory sleeve starts to rise, and seperate from the aluminum around it.