i have a 1998 integra ls and i am currently running a ported head on a factory block and i am at the point of either going full blown all motor ls with crower 404s custom manifold tb and ecu or just build the famous ls/vtec. it is daily driven and i take good car of it always check my oil daily. also the bottom end is fresh just turn 70 000 miles on it so i want to use the stock bottom end. for the ls vtec i was thinking type r oil pump, fully ported head from dh racing with dual valve springs, skunk2 manifold ,68 mil tb,either buddy club cams or just a set of ctrs or itrs, 2000 civic si ecu and mill the head a little to get 10.1 compression out of it. could you guys tell me what will run better for me against all these damn b16 hatchbacks and what will be more relaible as in headgaskets and stress on the motor i understand with either motor their is going to be usuall maitenece. THANKYOU

 

find a VTEC head and have it done properly. you wont have any problems if the conversion is done properly and it will make more power than a N/A LS head also.

 

thats what i was thi nking first i was gonna go threw dh racing for the head ans second i was wondering what is the simplist way to set up the pvc valve on an ls vtec

 

isn't there an insane amount of support parts required for the engine to be reliable? ive heard numbers anywhere from 4k to 8k for total parts cost.

 

now that i think about it im probally gonna go all out and run the 404s with full race head and custom manifold , i am running a bran new 98 type r tranny so i think this combo will pull pretty good. i drove a couple ls vtec this week and i don't like how they pull i felt like i waqs waiting for something when vtec kicked in don't get me wrong they re fast but i like the all ls broad powerband im still in the air.

 

if you do all the work you can properly build an ls/vtec for $6k, and that includes the cost of head/block/trans.

 

how come you need a new tranny?

 

Its not needed, but short gearing (b16 trans) really wakes up the acceleration.

 

if the tranny is not needed, what's probably the rock bottom price to convert a ls to vtec to simply use as a base for further modifications, without labor costs?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spoonb18b &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">now that i think about it im probally gonna go all out and run the 404s with full race head and custom manifold , i am running a bran new 98 type r tranny so i think this combo will pull pretty good. i drove a couple ls vtec this week and i don't like how they pull i felt like i waqs waiting for something when vtec kicked in don't get me wrong they re fast but i like the all ls broad powerband im still in the air. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Id just like to say, if your going "all out" n/a the 404s arent that much...get the 405s or even a custom grind...404s are streetable...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Phelixthecat &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what's probably the rock bottom price to convert a ls to vtec </TD></TR></TABLE>

please dont ever ask this question again, for 1. ive already answered it. for 2. the 'rock bottom' price will make your motor end itself very quickly.

 

im talking about the rock bottom price for an actual engine, meaning a stable one with all the supporting mods in order to prevent the engine from falling apart, but without all the mods to maximize performance. the tranny is one of the latter, so you didn't answer the question.

 

Take your time and do it right. My <U>opinion</U> on a decent set-up:

B16a pistons and rings, new 225-300
arp rod bolts 35
vtec oil pump 100
OEM t-belt, water pump 100
Vtec head/intake/dist 500-700
ecu 125-175
machine work, assembly...???
OEM head gasket 60-70
oil line, dowel adapter kit 100?

Just a few things to get started, figure more money for other seals and gaskets and crap, header, wiring, lots of stuff to think about .

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LsVtec92Hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you do all the work you can properly build an ls/vtec for $6k, and that includes the cost of head/block/trans.</TD></TR></TABLE>


yeah, i answered the question

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LsVtec92Hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


yeah, i answered the question</TD></TR></TABLE> ah your wrong, the best shop around here quality wise will do it for 4700 thats taking a stock civic to ls/vtec full swap

 

yeah we'll see how long that lasts.

 

ya well every one who has dealt with that shop has had no complaints, none nothing but praise, all of his swaps last ever heard of tybrid

 

do they put all new main and rod bearings in the block? how bout thrust washers? any sort of girdle to keep the bottom end stable at high rpm's? what kind of fitting for the oil line? Generic Tee fitting or a nice safe golden eagle peice? what pistons are used? stock LS? please... and if not stock, do you get a fresh rehone of the cylinder walls? what kind of bttom end work is done? balancing, blueprinting, any?!!?


Yeah, 4700. Right.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4g4drb17 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ya well every one who has dealt with that shop has had no complaints, none nothing but praise, all of his swaps last ever heard of tybrid</TD></TR></TABLE>

Please learn to use the english language properly when trying to convince someone of your point. It makes your argument oh so much more potent.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4g4drb17 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ya well every one who has dealt with that shop has had no complaints, </TD></TR></TABLE>

wow, congrats on being the first shop in existance to never have had one single complaint. I am seriously impressed.

 

lsvtec, you did not answer my question, because a transmission is not needed to run the setup reliably. maybe it makes it much more efficient, but i'm asking for a minimum reliable setup, with no concern for power as of yet. and don't be a little troll please; with the way you're acting i won't be surprised if you try to use your post count as a false indication of superiority.

 

Youre an idiot. Take $6k and minus $650,which is the going price for a decent b16 trans.

 

LsVtec92Hatch: It can be done reliably for less than $6K, but I respect anyone who argues for quality parts. I could do it quality for less, but I skip end retailers and go right to the industrial supplier of most of my knick-knacks - a proper remote tee'd oil line and fittings runs $35 from an industrial supplier, for example.

Phelixthecat: You're arguing over irrelevant ****. If you don't know how to build an engine, or the effect gearing has on a Honduh, telling you "the cheapest recipe" accomplishes nothing. The LS in question would be faster with a VTEC gearbox and semi-serious weight reduction than with building a "reliable" performance NA engine.

Now, kids, stop squabbling

 

J. Davis: Point well taken. If you know your stuff, you can build it for less, but i figured someone with the automotive know how to ask this sort of question does not have the connections or know how to get it done any cheaper. for a good reply.

Phelixthecat: Im not trying to be a dick, but an ls/vtec is not the motor you want to skimp on or cut corners. If you want something cheap and reliable that you can rev the **** out of, buy a b16.