How to change raditaor on a 94 LX
I have a friend who needs to have his radiator replaced. The local garage wants $400 for Parts & Labor. I found a replacement radiator online for $118 shipped. I was wondering how hard is it to change as I would like to do it for him ?? Would a regular ratchet set suffice or would I need to have any other / special tools besides the basic tools ?? Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. Thx. . . .
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by reefguy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a friend who needs to have his radiator replaced. The local garage wants $400 for Parts & Labor. I found a replacement radiator online for $118 shipped. I was wondering how hard is it to change as I would like to do it for him ?? Would a regular ratchet set suffice or would I need to have any other / special tools besides the basic tools ?? Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. Thx. . . .
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The book calls for 1.5 hours to R&R the radiator in your car. The radiator you can get from Honda for 220$ your cost. You should be able to get him down to 340$ plus tax. My labor rate is 79$ / hour x 1.5 = 118.50 + 220 = 338.50.
If you're going to install it yourself, get a shop manual that will tell you step by step so you don't screw it up.
If you have a little bit of experience with mechanics, it should be too hard for you. It's really just unbolt and bolt on.
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The book calls for 1.5 hours to R&R the radiator in your car. The radiator you can get from Honda for 220$ your cost. You should be able to get him down to 340$ plus tax. My labor rate is 79$ / hour x 1.5 = 118.50 + 220 = 338.50.
If you're going to install it yourself, get a shop manual that will tell you step by step so you don't screw it up.
If you have a little bit of experience with mechanics, it should be too hard for you. It's really just unbolt and bolt on.
Thanks, Escobar.
I just wanted to make sure that it was just an un-bolt / re-bolt type of a procedure. I do have some mechanical experience but have never really worked on this particular model so I just wanted to make sure that there wasn't anything too complex or something that would require a special tool. You never know with the auto manufacturers these days. I loved working on cars growing up and remember the days when you could actually see the ground under the car looking down from the hood. Nowadays, you are lucky if you can get you hand in there to check the oil, let alone find the dipstick !!
Thanks again.
I just wanted to make sure that it was just an un-bolt / re-bolt type of a procedure. I do have some mechanical experience but have never really worked on this particular model so I just wanted to make sure that there wasn't anything too complex or something that would require a special tool. You never know with the auto manufacturers these days. I loved working on cars growing up and remember the days when you could actually see the ground under the car looking down from the hood. Nowadays, you are lucky if you can get you hand in there to check the oil, let alone find the dipstick !!
Thanks again.
No prob. Just remember, after you bolt the new one up and add coolant, bleed the system of any air. Air pockets will cause the car to overheat. There is a bleed screw right on top of the thermostat housing. Good luck.
Escobar,
Do you know where the thermostat is ? Is it near the firewall in the back of the motor ?? I looked at where the hose from the top of the radiator connects to the front of the motor but did not seem to find any screws that looked like they were part of the the cooling system. I changed the radiator, filled it and ran the engine with the cap off for a couple of minutes. Then, added water until the radiator was full. Put the cap back on and drove the car. It did not overheat. So, do I still need to bleed the system or do you think it's okay ??
Do you know where the thermostat is ? Is it near the firewall in the back of the motor ?? I looked at where the hose from the top of the radiator connects to the front of the motor but did not seem to find any screws that looked like they were part of the the cooling system. I changed the radiator, filled it and ran the engine with the cap off for a couple of minutes. Then, added water until the radiator was full. Put the cap back on and drove the car. It did not overheat. So, do I still need to bleed the system or do you think it's okay ??
well, cooling system won't work well if there's air in it.
if i am not mistaken the thermostat is located around the upper radiator hose in the front of the engine block.
you will be need to look for the air bleed valve some what close by, size 12 bolt with a little male nipple sticking out(not gay sh-t, male nipple fitting to be exact), it's the highest point of the cooling system in the engine block(SO it's not the radiator valve).
MOST of the honda have an air bleed valve, mazda doesnt seems to like them too much
if i am not mistaken the thermostat is located around the upper radiator hose in the front of the engine block.
you will be need to look for the air bleed valve some what close by, size 12 bolt with a little male nipple sticking out(not gay sh-t, male nipple fitting to be exact), it's the highest point of the cooling system in the engine block(SO it's not the radiator valve).
MOST of the honda have an air bleed valve, mazda doesnt seems to like them too much
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by reefguy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Escobar,
Do you know where the thermostat is ? Is it near the firewall in the back of the motor ?? I looked at where the hose from the top of the radiator connects to the front of the motor but did not seem to find any screws that looked like they were part of the the cooling system. I changed the radiator, filled it and ran the engine with the cap off for a couple of minutes. Then, added water until the radiator was full. Put the cap back on and drove the car. It did not overheat. So, do I still need to bleed the system or do you think it's okay ?? </TD></TR></TABLE>
The thermostat is located in the thermostat housing on the back of the motor. The lower radiator hose connects to the housing. There is a nipple on the housing that you open to let the system bleed. Make sure the vehicle is at operating temperature (thermostat open) and put your heater on full blast before you begin. Keep the nipple open until coolant flows steady with no bubbles. Then close it.
Do you know where the thermostat is ? Is it near the firewall in the back of the motor ?? I looked at where the hose from the top of the radiator connects to the front of the motor but did not seem to find any screws that looked like they were part of the the cooling system. I changed the radiator, filled it and ran the engine with the cap off for a couple of minutes. Then, added water until the radiator was full. Put the cap back on and drove the car. It did not overheat. So, do I still need to bleed the system or do you think it's okay ?? </TD></TR></TABLE>
The thermostat is located in the thermostat housing on the back of the motor. The lower radiator hose connects to the housing. There is a nipple on the housing that you open to let the system bleed. Make sure the vehicle is at operating temperature (thermostat open) and put your heater on full blast before you begin. Keep the nipple open until coolant flows steady with no bubbles. Then close it.
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yeegsr
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