what is the best swap for a 92 - 93 integra?

 

depends on what you want.

compared to a b18a:

b16-more power, less torque, vtec, cheap, easy to swap

b18c-more power, more torque, vtec, a little pricier and a little harder to swap

b20- more power, more torque, no vtec, cheap, easy to swap

ls/vtec- alot of power and torque, vtec, expensive and alot of work involved

i personally would go with the b20 or b18c...i prefer mid-range power for around town and pulling out of the apex on a canyon road.

and, then there is turbo for your b18a.

 

type R ......nuf said....

 

B17
Almost like it was made for g2 tegs

 

ls vtec

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4crx4me &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">B17
Almost like it was made for g2 tegs </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yea if you can find one. Those things are harder to find than Micheal Jackson at a strip club. Not to mention how much one would cost after you ended your quest finding one.

Put my vote down for B20.

 

Ls/Vtec

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SoKleeN69 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ls vtec </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

go for the xsi engine, it'll be a simple swap since its obd1 and u can probably ask to lower the price by takin the halfshaft/axles etc. off since u can use the ones on your current car. should only be around 1500-1700, cant beat the price. plus you'll be getting the best cable tranny for hondas, Ys1...but it all ends up on how much you willin to spend.

 

my vote goes for a b20 cheap, and tourqey. just got mine in sunday

 

b18c - power, plus 8k rev (safely)
b20 - the most torque, but no power (not smoggable/bar if ur in Cali) or you can careless about it.

 

mmmmMm.. B16B

 

i just put a B18b out of a 94+ integra in my 93. the swap was easy(as far as swapping out a motor goes) and i started on a Friday at 6 pm and was driving by Sunday at 1 am. i have a GS so i had to reuse my tranny cuz it is cable. motor had 60k on it and was in an automatic car so i knew it hadnt been ragged. i also had to put my 93 throttle body back on because of idle issues. no further problems

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TEXNTEG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


b18c-more power, more torque, vtec, a little pricier and a little harder to swap

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Just wondering, what makes a b18c harder to swap than a b16, lets assume they are both obd1 versions.

 

I just finished a B20Z swap into 93 civic hatch and it gets my vote hands down!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by silenttones &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">go for the xsi engine, it'll be a simple swap since its obd1 and u can probably ask to lower the price by takin the halfshaft/axles etc. off since u can use the ones on your current car. should only be around 1500-1700, cant beat the price. plus you'll be getting the best cable tranny for hondas, Ys1...but it all ends up on how much you willin to spend. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I agree...i put a 93 XSi B16A engine in my DA and im happy with it. As long as you keep revs over 6,000 the engine is quite spunky even bone stock. Cant go wrong...170hp and i got mine for $1600.

 

just buy a b16a toss the head on your b18a and use the b16 tranny... toss in some pr3 pistons and now you have a high compression ls/vtec with a high gearing tranny.

i smell low 14s

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tegasaurus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just buy a b16a toss the head on your b18a and use the b16 tranny... toss in some pr3 pistons and now you have a high compression ls/vtec with a high gearing tranny.

i smell low 14s </TD></TR></TABLE>

it's not as easy as "tossing the head on your b18a".

make sure you do this build up correctly and professionaly if you plan on doing it at all, because failure to do so will lead to a fast, quick, and short engine life.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by The HamsterBall &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

it's not as easy as "tossing the head on your b18a".

make sure you do this build up correctly and professionaly if you plan on doing it at all, because failure to do so will lead to a fast, quick, and short engine life.</TD></TR></TABLE>

you want me to do an entire ******* write up? i didn't want to humor the man by doing this, but i guess i have to. i appologise for making the assumption he knew that you can't duct tape a b16 head on a block and make it work...


well you'll need to obtain an ls/vtec oil feed kit, ls/vtec dowels, a new head gasket and have the b16 head's main oil supply tapped and plugged. Purchase the appropriate set of head studs (and i recomend head studs because you can retorque the head, pull the head, put a new one on etc and not have to buy another set).

Now start the disassembly of the bottom end. remove the rods/piston assembly and he main caps, remove the crank now. Clean all surfaces with brake clean and let drip/air dry. Now take your bare block to a machine shop w/ your pistons and have them bore/hone if necessary. Now bring your block back home. take it out of your car, put it on an engine stand. Re-clean all parts. put the rings in the block and measure the clearances. Now take the rings back out and file them down to the appropriate size clearances - consult the helms for the correct size. Now put the rings on the cylinders and attach the cylinders back onto your rods -- using your ring compressor, slide the ring/piston/rod assembly into the motor.

make sure you clean the cylinder wall prior to installation and spary the walls down with a light coat of wd40 for minimum lubrication that will not wash the oil off the walls upon engine start up.

set the crank in the mains (wiuth new bearings) and check for correct clearances by torquing all the mains down correctly after placing plastigauge between the crank and the bearing. Now remove the plastiguage and install the bearings correctly (make sure the dimples that hold the bearings in are facing the exhaust ports - this is very important).

now bolt the rods to the crank and your short block should be complete. install the correct new gaskets all around as well as an upgraded vtec oil and water pump.

now slap that ******* b16 head on and you're good to go

here's a few reference links to the assembly of the motor.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=765604
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=773739

 

Unless you are conpletely reinforcing the bottom end of the engine along with the head studs..DON'T do LS/VTEC.

 

the best swap for the g2 is probably the B16A. Came with them in JDM models. The swap that will make you the fastest? Well...thats different.

You cant just say "whats best?" and not have alot of disagreement. I vote b16 for ease and price, and b20Vtec for all out power.

 

i have had a b20 and b18c1 i do beleave it is and i really liked the b20 with lsd tranny it really spanks some ***

 

4 reiability go with the b18c youll be pleased

 

i have a B16a with the B16 cable S1 trany with just iceman intake, mugen 4-1 header, test pipe HKS hi power cat back,tuned VAFC, and mugen variant ecu and i spank up 94 and up GSR with bolt on's. I say don't rule the B16A out of the picture Honda enginers in japan put them in the XSi and RSi integra's for a reason.

 

b16 is the way to go.... faster than a b20 swap w/ LS gears which you prolly have. the b16 trans is pretty crazy and makes the car pretty quick. plus b16 full swaps are 1400 shipped to your door. the only thing you need besides the swap is 1. obd1 vtec ecu, 2. obd1 injectors (your stock ones work great), 3. obd 1 distributor ( yours will work if you saw a leg off it). then use your stock harness and wire the knock sensor, vtec solenoid, and vtec oil pres. safty switch outside the harness.
done. easy swap. b20 is the same motor w/ a little more torque i guess. just cause it has 84 bore over the 81 bore. they both have the same block and crank. just to let people know 92-93 integra b18a's have 140 hp stock, unlike the 90-91 that have 130 stock. and the b18c gsr would be stupid slow on your tranny since you can't really use the hydro tranny that comes with it (you could cable to hydro swap or just swap final and blah blah blah, but thats hard.) not to mention the b18c is a pricey motor. the ITR motor would be same story, the b17 is awesome, but just as fast as a b16, and ls/vtec done cheaply is dumb, built LS/vtec is one of the best motors if built right, but expensive because building motors is expensive. i'd say get a b16 since they're cheap, easy, reliable, and low mileage.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SoKleeN69 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ls vtec </TD></TR></TABLE>

13's all motor... well worth it