Ya, I'm full of questions today, just trying to get a plan down here. I'm looking at making a max of 300whp as I don't really feel like ripping the block apart and I know anything more will kill my b16a2 stock block. I'm kind of on a budget at the moment, but I think this goal is do-able. In all reality I just want to be above 260whp. So, I guess the question is, what's the best turbo for this application that I can get in the cheap. I'm really not into dragging at the track or anything, it's more a fact of I like to drive, and I want some more speed and power I saw people on another forum talking about using an HY35 but I'm thinking that turbo is probably massive and will take forever to spool for this application (it is off a damn cummins turbo diesel after all).

Also, at this HP am I going to need a better head gasket and bolts? (arp studs).

 

the OEM gasket will be fine and yes ARP stup are a must...

If your not planning to be over 300 whp the best turbo for you would be a Precision SC50 .63ar....

I have this turbo on my D16... On your B16 the turbo would spool faster so perfect for the street.

The price of this turbo is really good too...

Dont forget a good fuel management too...

 

how much can you get out of the stock turbo's off of dsm's?

 

sc50 .63ar

 

ok im not to good in your language but what are studs? and do i need them for 220 boosted whp on a b16?
thanks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94gsr4dr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sc50 .63ar</TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RyanAutry &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I agree. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Me too.

The 50 trim is a nice street turbo.

 

annybody?

 

id go with one of our .86ar t3 turbined garret gt28rs.. great turbo for 300hp stock block applications, reaches 4-6psi at 3000 rpms on a stock b16

 

They are reffering to head studs. ARP is the brand of the studs. They work great on keeping your head from lifting from the block and warping under heat and stress from your extra hp. Hope this helps a bit

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by unsungsohc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">They are reffering to head studs. ARP is the brand of the studs. They work great on keeping your head from lifting from the block and warping under heat and stress from your extra hp. Hope this helps a bit</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have had heads lift using ARPS, i havn't tried the AEBS though. ARP is good stuff rhough

 

if the head lifts with arp studs you didnt install them right or got a bad stud.. we have seen over 40psi with no problems

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDogg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if the head lifts with arp studs you didnt install them right or got a bad stud.. we have seen over 40psi with no problems</TD></TR></TABLE>

Must have been shotty stuff then, i did install them correctly

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDogg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if the head lifts with arp studs you didnt install them right or got a bad stud.. we have seen over 40psi with no problems</TD></TR></TABLE>

I lifted a head with ARP studs because of a shitty tune before.

 

opps, i forgot to mention severe detonation will also cause that......