will they crack for daily driving? or is that only if you road race?

 

Sure, why not.

 

You dont need anything over stock for your street driver.

 

Those aren't cracks, they're speed vanes!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boostage &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">will they crack for daily driving? or is that only if you road race?</TD></TR></TABLE>

any rotor can crack for any kind of driving, but the chances are slimmer that these will crack under normal driving.

is this a bling thing or what?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bad-monkey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

any rotor can crack for any kind of driving, but the chances are slimmer that these will crack under normal driving.

is this a bling thing or what?</TD></TR></TABLE>

no not bling, I want to reduce unsprung weight

 

Are they cryogenically treated? Expensive cross drilled rotors are treated to prevent cracking, cheap cross drilled rotors will crack with nearly any kind of use. I use PowerSlot rotors for street/autocross and I am very pleased with them.

Consider getting a set of aluminum 1984-87 CRX HF brake drums to effectively reduce unsprung weight.

Scott

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boostage &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no not bling, I want to reduce unsprung weight</TD></TR></TABLE>

so you are getting these for the track...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ITAcelica &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You dont need anything over stock for your street driver.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Exactly. Most of these kids who do brake "upgrades" for their street-only cars just end up doing more harm than good.

 

I made the mistake of buying Stillen cross drilled rotors. They cracked at a track day. I wouldn't waist my time or money buying cross drilled rotors again. FWIW, the rear disks are still on the car, no cracks.

If you want to reduce unsprung weight look into other things like wheels and even tires. http://www.wheelweights.net/

 

Crossdrilled rotors do have a chance of cracking. However there are many things that can help reduce the risk of cracking.

1. cryo treating
2. buying a high quality rotor
3. buying a rotor that is cast with the holes, versus actually drilled; like the
wilwood units.

for track days and racing I prefer a solid or slotted rotor, because you have more contact area with the pad and less chance of failure.

Just my $.02

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DTMotorsports &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> 3. buying a rotor that is cast with the holes, versus actually drilled; like the wilwood units.</TD></TR></TABLE>

This doesnt really have any performance benefit, Porsche rotors (well, SHW) are not cast with the holes in them.

I'm sure you can take steps to reduce the failure of cracking, but I dont think it'd be worth it.

 

didja yall catch the quote from the Performance Friction engineer in the brake article this month's SportsCar: "Anyone that thinks drilling rotors improves cooling is smoking crack". I may not have it word for word, but you get the idea.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

This doesnt really have any performance benefit, Porsche rotors (well, SHW) are not cast with the holes in them.</TD></TR></TABLE>

This is true, but it can help reduce the chance of cracking because the metal is not being stressed; where drilling can fatigue the metal.

 

Here is a brake question I have that is semi-topical.

I was at a local Audi dealership last night as part of a promotion for the dealer's employees (of which I am not, but I was able to get in anyway ) involving the Champion drivers and their race cars. Anyway, I was looking at the brakes on the RS6, and I thought they were cross-drilled, but when I got closer, I realized they weren't. They looked like cresents, and didn't go all the way through the rotor. What does that do?

And as a side-note, my friend who works at the dealership and I were talking when I mentioned the term autocross, and Randy Pobst's ears perked. "Did someone say they autocross?" he said. We ended up having a pretty good conversation about autocross and how Randy got his start, etc. Him and Galati snuck out of the showroom for a few minutes to sign my friend's toolbox back in the service bays. They were both very cool.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sean O’Gorman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here is a brake question I have that is semi-topical.

I was at a local Audi dealership last night as part of a promotion for the dealer's employees (of which I am not, but I was able to get in anyway ) involving the Champion drivers and their race cars. Anyway, I was looking at the brakes on the RS6, and I thought they were cross-drilled, but when I got closer, I realized they weren't. They looked like cresents, and didn't go all the way through the rotor. What does that do?

And as a side-note, my friend who works at the dealership and I were talking when I mentioned the term autocross, and Randy Pobst's ears perked. "Did someone say they autocross?" he said. We ended up having a pretty good conversation about autocross and how Randy got his start, etc. Him and Galati snuck out of the showroom for a few minutes to sign my friend's toolbox back in the service bays. They were both very cool. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Oh man I would of love to meet Randy pobst!!!! He's one of my favorite drivers!!! Speaking of autocross, he used to run a 87 Toyota corolla GTS hatchback.

To answer your question concerning the rotors, they were most likely slots.

 

Were they like this? Stasis/Alcon brake systems use these rotors, but they may not be the only ones.



The crescent-shaped 'holes' are actually slots. Instead of traditional straight or slightly curved slots that run the width of the rotor surface, those small crescent-shaped slot are supposed to be superior in letting gases escape. Forgot where I read that from...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by genxguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">those small crescent-shaped slot are supposed to be superior in letting gases escape. Forgot where I read that from... </TD></TR></TABLE>

Well, modern pads don't have degassing problems like they used to. The only real advantage now a days to having slots is to prevent glazing of the pads.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by genxguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Were they like this? Stasis/Alcon brake systems use these rotors, but they may not be the only ones.



The crescent-shaped 'holes' are actually slots. Instead of traditional straight or slightly curved slots that run the width of the rotor surface, those small crescent-shaped slot are supposed to be superior in letting gases escape. Forgot where I read that from... </TD></TR></TABLE>

No, they weren't like that, but I did notice those on the Realtime TSXs today. The "cresents" were actually the size of normal holes in a cross drilled rotor, its just that they were shaped differently, and did not go through the entire rotor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boostage &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no not bling, I want to reduce unsprung weight</TD></TR></TABLE>the amount of weight you save is so miniscoule once you factor in exactally all of that "unsprung weight" like the axles, wheels, tires, transmission etc.

IMO blanks work fine. why risk cracking them at all? there are no performance gains you will ever see.

 

was it like this?



ive wondered what was the point in that as well

 

No, they were rounder, and there were none of the long grooves.

It should figure, that with so many of us spectating at Mid-Ohio this weekend, that none of us would take the time to take a picture of the RS6 brake rotors!

 

I know what your talking about, it's called Dimple Drilled, not drilling the holes all the way through, only half way. They say this helps the rotor from cracking but i haven't seen any cracked rotors from normal driving ever.

 

luudog55 got it. they're "dimpled" which I also heard is supposed to prevent cracking while also aiding in a slight reduction in unsprung wait as well as allowing more gases created by the friction of the pads and rotors (?) to escape.

 

Well I was going to start my own thread but I figured I'd just drop it in here. I have a 94 Civic dx hatchback and I just got a free 4-wheel disc setup from my friend's 99 integra LS that he wrecked. I got the rear trailing arms with everything (calipers/hubs/rotors) attached, the front spindles also with everything (calipers/hubs/rotors) attached, the master cylinder and the prop valve.

Now obviously these brakes aren't as bad-*** as getting an ITR 5-lug but I think its pretty good especially since it was free. Now I want to get 4 high-quality rotors (blank or slotted but def. not drilled), some good pads for 95% aggressive street driving/5% track day use, and some braided steel lines. What I am looking for is recomendations for what brands to buy and also where to get them. I.E. what pads, rotors, and lines do I want and where can I buy them? Ideally I would like to order everything from one place if possible.

I figured you RR heads would know cuz you probably order these parts all the time.

Thanks in advance for any advice.