Vtec after dyno tune
Hi guys, I've done the dyno tune last thursday on my H22A Accord, and the tuner help me tune down the Vtec to 4500rpm.
After everything's done, I can hear the vtec kick in at 4500rpm, however, until the car go up to 5000rpm(stock setting), I finally can feel the vtec is pulling.
I was just wondering do they need to input more fuel or air if they tune down the vtec, or everyone have the same result after dyno tune? If so, there's actually no point to have vtec down tune. Am I right?
After everything's done, I can hear the vtec kick in at 4500rpm, however, until the car go up to 5000rpm(stock setting), I finally can feel the vtec is pulling.
I was just wondering do they need to input more fuel or air if they tune down the vtec, or everyone have the same result after dyno tune? If so, there's actually no point to have vtec down tune. Am I right?
how did he set it there ? vafc/feilds......if so it will never be right ..
thge proper way to do it is in the ecu itself....what happens is that the ecu changes fuel AND timming maps and the factory point......when you change via vafc all you do is change when the vtec solinoid engauges....unfortunitly it doesnt change fuel adjustments or timming ...
even with an a/f plot you can only match it up so much ...cause you cant change the timmign unless done in the ecu ..
so what your feeling is the cams changing over and getting lots of air (mabye even the right ammount of fuel) but untill you hit the factory vtec point its never right ....then bam all of a sudden it gets the fuel it needs and timming its all good ...
for instance my tuner runs the car to 6500 on the low cam...then runs to red line (from idel) on the hig cam ....sees where the power crosses and fine tunes from there ...HTH
thge proper way to do it is in the ecu itself....what happens is that the ecu changes fuel AND timming maps and the factory point......when you change via vafc all you do is change when the vtec solinoid engauges....unfortunitly it doesnt change fuel adjustments or timming ...
even with an a/f plot you can only match it up so much ...cause you cant change the timmign unless done in the ecu ..
so what your feeling is the cams changing over and getting lots of air (mabye even the right ammount of fuel) but untill you hit the factory vtec point its never right ....then bam all of a sudden it gets the fuel it needs and timming its all good ...
for instance my tuner runs the car to 6500 on the low cam...then runs to red line (from idel) on the hig cam ....sees where the power crosses and fine tunes from there ...HTH
move the vtec point to 4700-4800 and see if that smooths out anything. and if that dip in the AFR at 4600-5100 is still there, try pulling some fuel around there. whats happening is your engaging the hi cam too soon, and bogging the engine down. IMO sounds like your tuner is either a domestic guy, or doesn't know wtf he's doing.
and while an AFC is not the best way to move vtec around and tune the engine, its still a pretty good unit for basic bolt ons and what not. sure you can't move the timing around, but you can still make power with it and smooth out the dyno plot.
and while an AFC is not the best way to move vtec around and tune the engine, its still a pretty good unit for basic bolt ons and what not. sure you can't move the timing around, but you can still make power with it and smooth out the dyno plot.
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Thanks guys!!
So, waht should I do?
Should input some more gas at the vtec point?
BTW, do anyone know a good dyno tune shop in mid-west? IL, KS, IA, MN, etc.
So, waht should I do?
Should input some more gas at the vtec point?
BTW, do anyone know a good dyno tune shop in mid-west? IL, KS, IA, MN, etc.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4bidden »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Go to a different place to dyno....that graph looks like a baseline, not a tuned run.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Exactly, you shouldn't be adjusting settings unless your on the dyno ( seeing realtime results). I would set vtec to the stock engagement and put all the fuel adj. to zero. Then go a find a a tuner that knows what they are doing.
Exactly, you shouldn't be adjusting settings unless your on the dyno ( seeing realtime results). I would set vtec to the stock engagement and put all the fuel adj. to zero. Then go a find a a tuner that knows what they are doing.
I forgot about propulsion, they are newer, but they may be better. I tuned at Elite, but Isaac is no longer there, moved to Texas or something. I would try Propulsion......
You shouldn't "feel" a VTEC kick after a good tuning session. A good tuner can reduce the typical VTEC crossover drop in HP and torque. Search for some of the better dynos posted and you will see what I'm talking about.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Someone said auto engine with different cam, isn't it?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Both the JDM H22A 5-spd and AUTO are exactly the same engines, even cams except that the auto has a smaller throttle body.
Both the JDM H22A 5-spd and AUTO are exactly the same engines, even cams except that the auto has a smaller throttle body.
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gamby
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
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Jan 13, 2002 05:15 PM




