ITR swaybar install on GSR-how to get tack welded nuts off
I tried putting a bolt in half way and hitting it head on, but the sheet metal started to dent so I stopped. I tried going at it with a chisel, but I didn't have enough room to hit it hard. Any other ideas? Oh yeah, and I need to bend my sheet metal back, heh
did you try removing both tires in the rear and jacking up the car to hammer?
you wouldnt have enough clearance otherwise.
Personally, my itr rsb was installed while the car was on jackstands.
you wouldnt have enough clearance otherwise.
Personally, my itr rsb was installed while the car was on jackstands.
Air hammer owns! Just be carefull with it...it will easily gouge your subframe. Took each nut off in about 2 seconds for me.
I am not graced with a compressor, so it took me 3 days of after work working to get those things off. I used a GOOD chisel from Lowe's and just kept going. It takes FOREVER to get those off, but they do come off. And worse case scenario you can drive the car without a sway bar. Just take it easy.
yeah take it slow, try to get the car up as high as you can on jackstands. with a chisel/hammer mine came out in less than 5 mins. try hitting them in different directions and directly on the spot welds. good luck man
Modified by B18Flip at 11:39 AM 6/18/2004
Modified by B18Flip at 11:39 AM 6/18/2004
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18Flip »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">try hitting them in different directions and directly spot welds. good luck man
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this worked for me..
</TD></TR></TABLE>this worked for me..
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by aeon »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah i did what you did, screwing in the bolt half way and then hitting it in. took a little while but eventually it the nut came out. </TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by aeon »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah i did what you did, screwing in the bolt half way and then hitting it in. took a little while but eventually it the nut came out. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I love it when that happens.
I love it when that happens.
I removed the LCA's and then used a dremel to cut the welds from the back. I had to do this because the welds on mine were too strong and banding them out was bending the subframe. They came off very easily after using the dremel though.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TRuST »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I love it when that happens.
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lmao...
I love it when that happens.
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lmao...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boofster »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think I just drilled mine out. Don't you have to enlarge that hole anyway? Don't remember.</TD></TR></TABLE>
thats what i did... i drilled them out till they were thin... then i just used a hammer and chisel
thats what i did... i drilled them out till they were thin... then i just used a hammer and chisel
ok, so what I ended up doing was chiseling off one weld, and then hitting the protruding bolt with a hammer. I think if you take off one weld, the forces are no longer distributed evenly, so it makes it easier for the nut to pop off. To pop out the dent I made, I just put in a longer bolt and used the claw end of a hammer to pry.
bringing this thread back from the dead. i got all of the nuts off besides the top one. any tips for that because its not easy to reach
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