CAN ROTORS WARP WHEN HOT AND UNWARP WHEN COOL?
I know this doesn't make sense but when i drive my car after it has been sitting for a while (everything is cold) my brakes feel fine but once i warm up the rotors, they feel like they're warped. They mainly feel warped around 30 MPH. What could be causing them to feel warped when hot and not when cold?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by omeara7 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I know this doesn't make sense but when i drive my car after it has been sitting for a while (everything is cold) my brakes feel fine but once i warm up the rotors, they feel like they're warped. They mainly feel warped around 30 MPH. What could be causing them to feel warped when hot and not when cold?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Maybe they are warped. Have you checked them?
Maybe they are warped. Have you checked them?
well I'm assuming that they are warped but they are less than 6 months old so I was thinking that they weren't. It just seemed like warped rotors would always be warped and not only when hot. How would I go about checking them? Or do I have to get them checked in a shop? Thanks
6 month old rotors shouldn't be warped..that seems a little premature to me. But it could be some shitty pads, high heat, excessive braking etc.
I would inspect the pads, rotor assembly and possibly the need for a resurface and replacement of pads. Also just to make sure your front brakes aren't being overworked make sure and check your rear brakes to ensure even wear and if they are disc check tension on springs etc
.
If you already purchased new rotors and they need to get honed, you may or may not want to consider getting some brembo blanks for the front and some decent pads...not only will it help with wear (should
)but should also provide better braking.
Anyone want to recommend any decent pads other than oem or the vatozone special? (sorry for the quasi-thread jack)
I would inspect the pads, rotor assembly and possibly the need for a resurface and replacement of pads. Also just to make sure your front brakes aren't being overworked make sure and check your rear brakes to ensure even wear and if they are disc check tension on springs etc
.If you already purchased new rotors and they need to get honed, you may or may not want to consider getting some brembo blanks for the front and some decent pads...not only will it help with wear (should
)but should also provide better braking. Anyone want to recommend any decent pads other than oem or the vatozone special? (sorry for the quasi-thread jack)
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The pads are Raybestos pads and are brand new. I did break in the pads by the directions. The reason for such early warpage might be because the rotors are from Ebay but they claimed to be Brembo-slotted rotors. Thanks for the advise. Are drums a hard to inspect?
Did you buy the rotors new or used? sounds to me like they just need to be turned at the local machine shop. What leads you to believe that they might be warped anyway?
I have disc in the front and drums in the rear. The rotors were new when I installed them. I think they are warped because I get a pulsating brake-pedal when braking hard around 30 MPH.
I have that same problem too, I dont know what it is but it only does it around 50-60 KPH ( I cant remember how many MPH that is) It does'nt do it any other time, and I dont even have it in the pedals, I can just feel it in the wheel a lot, Its actually pretty bad, the whole wheel just flyes around..Im pretty sure its air in the lines..Because ive changed the pads and rotors and its still happening, Im gonna bleed them this weekend see what happens..
I have re-torqued the lugs all to 80 ft lbs in the star-pattern and nothing changed. The lugs were unevenly torqued when the rotors were 1st installed so that could have caused the warpage. I could try bleeding the brakes again and see what happens. Thanks.
I thought my slotted rotors were warped also, but I changed out the piece of crap Autozone carbon metallic pads, to some Raybestos Ceramic Quiet Stops and now it's fine.
It was weird to even think that the brake pads, could be a cause of the shaking....but for me problem solved.
It was weird to even think that the brake pads, could be a cause of the shaking....but for me problem solved.
Yes please explain!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00ITR#756 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My 00 ITR has done the same exact thing from day one. My current rotors are brembos that I had cryogenically frozen. 10000 miles no problems yet. It was woth the $50.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00ITR#756 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My 00 ITR has done the same exact thing from day one. My current rotors are brembos that I had cryogenically frozen. 10000 miles no problems yet. It was woth the $50.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't want to interrupt the cryo-stuff, but...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by omeara7 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It just seemed like warped rotors would always be warped and not only when hot. How would I go about checking them? Or do I have to get them checked in a shop? Thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>Do you have a dial indicator with a clamp or magnetic fixture? Take off the wheel, caliper, & rotor. Clean up the hub flange where the rotor sits. Clamp the indicator to the knuckle & indicate the trueness of that flange. Clean up the inside of the rotor, the surface that sits against the hub. Bolt it up with a couple big washers under each lug nut, so it's clamped properly to the hub. You might put the caliper bracket back on, so you have somewhere to clamp your dial indicator. Indicate on the rotor's braking surface, towards the inside & again towards the outside.
If they indicate real close to being flat, then maybe you've got pad material transferred & burned into the rotor surface. That stuff might behave differently cold vs. hot.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by omeara7 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It just seemed like warped rotors would always be warped and not only when hot. How would I go about checking them? Or do I have to get them checked in a shop? Thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>Do you have a dial indicator with a clamp or magnetic fixture? Take off the wheel, caliper, & rotor. Clean up the hub flange where the rotor sits. Clamp the indicator to the knuckle & indicate the trueness of that flange. Clean up the inside of the rotor, the surface that sits against the hub. Bolt it up with a couple big washers under each lug nut, so it's clamped properly to the hub. You might put the caliper bracket back on, so you have somewhere to clamp your dial indicator. Indicate on the rotor's braking surface, towards the inside & again towards the outside.
If they indicate real close to being flat, then maybe you've got pad material transferred & burned into the rotor surface. That stuff might behave differently cold vs. hot.
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HondaEconoBox
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