On my 88 crx, I have done a rear disk brake swap from a 90-93 integra, new rotors front and back, (fronts are brembo slotted), AEM pads, and 4040 prop. valve. So why does my pedal feel sorta mushy unless the brakes heat up and I pump the pedal a few times then its really stiff until they cool back down again. Oh ya and also if im going above 60 or so and then hit my brakes the car shakes really bad...i think that might be my front end alignment tho. So what do you guys think....i have bled the system the correct way several times. Should I drop some more cash on a MC and booster?

 

you could have warped the front rotors/pads...when you put your from rims back on, did you torque each lugnut the same, or did you just crank it on? because if they the lugnuts all have different torque, it will cause hot and cold spots on the rotor and cause it to warp...

i would also get at least a 7/8 master cylinder from the crx si, or a 15/16 from numerous amounts of cars...

 

if the pedal is easy to push down, then the brake booster is fine. How to check and see if your brake booster is fine... unplug the vacuum line to it and then try to drive about 10 feet and hit the brakes. If there is no change in the pedal to what you're used to (it should be VERY hard to push) then the booster is good.

I had this problem not too long ago and couldn't figure out why... all new rotors and pads and a new master cylinder and still the brakes were mush. I finally traced the problem to my passenger side front caliper. the caliper slide was locked up and so the caliper was engaging, but it wasnt clamping down all the way.

You might try checking out your calipers.

 

# of reason could be the probs
I'd start on the basics, like re bleeding, TWICE

get the Proportioning valve to STOCK settings if possible

get alignment back to STOCK

check if tires aren't over heat cyled (if they're street tires, then don't worry bout em)

 

make sure that when you bleed your brakes, you bleed them the proper way, not the hillbilly way.

the proper way consists of getting a jar or bottle, filling with about 2 inches of brake fluid, then get a hose that will fit onto the bleeder nipple and submerge it in the jar of brake fluid. that way, every time you open the bleeer, you can actually SEE if there are any air bubbles.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91civicDXdude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
the proper way consists of getting a jar or bottle, filling with about 2 inches of brake fluid, then get a hose that will fit onto the bleeder nipple and submerge it in the jar of brake fluid. that way, every time you open the bleeer, you can actually SEE if there are any air bubbles.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I too do it this way, but where can I find a hose that fits the bleed nipple? I bought one at an auto parts store and it was too small, so I had to cut the end of the hose. Ne idea?

 

just go to lowes or home depot and buy some various size silicon hoses....