I am considering getting nos because i have the 10 lb tank at home and got it for doing a favor for a friend. For those of you who have used nos whats your take on it. I am not trying to do any fast and the furious **** only like a 50 or 75 shot on a cr-vtec in a 91 hatch. Also am i going to really get my bang for my buck or is it a chance of blowing some **** up. i also heard that even a 50 shot is dangerous because it tears down your engine over a period of a few months

 

your engine has to be built for nitrous, you cant just take a stock POS d series and spray the **** outta it all the time, you have to build internals etc

 

only like a 50 or 75 shot on a cr-vtec in a 91 hatch

 

why would u want to risk blowing or wearing the crv bottom end? like if you want it'll do the trick but it wont last long

 

So basically the advertisers who say 50-75 shot on stock motors is ok are full of **** then.

 

not completely full of ****.they say you'll be fine assuming that you hook it up right and dont rag the **** out of your motor by spraying a shot of nos every few miles you drive.This is an on going debate about nos tearing things up.So yes it does if you have a lead foot and you dont know what your doing when you hook it up and while you have it.But no it doesnt harm your motor if you know what your doing and dont over use it.for example I know a guy with a 89 crx si stock d16a6 that has jrsc and 100 shot.he has never had a problem with it but, he takes the extra time to make sure it stays tuned and set up right so he wont run into any problems.

 

i did a 55 shot on my prelude stock engine ALOT, somtimes excessivly a bottle in like an hour or 2. but my prelude was a f22a1 (low compression) thing was a tank and it took it like a champ with 140k + miles on it. but thats a bigger engine. and it was a wet kit, i used colder plugs, and always 92+ octane.

my take on nitrous is it was fun kinda and more of a novlety, for real, its not that cool, and its a waste of money at $40 a tank. id boost it next time.

 

I have never used nos but I have used a zex NITROUS kit before.. Worked fine on my d15b7/z6 mini-me until I forgot to do something..

 

So in a nut shell it depends on how well I take care of my car and how well I make sure my system stays in optimum shape.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tgreaves &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> until I forgot to do something.. </TD></TR></TABLE>

hahahaha.. what did you forget?

once upon a time, i put a wet kit on my car once, and forget the jets, ran it full bottle pressure.. it was insane.. 3rd gear, 2K RPM broke the tires loose like a top fuel dragster.. it was increadible.. sad to say.. on the way in, hit it once more, and broke about 1/4 inch off each piston top.. it was insane.


needless to say.. at safe amounts you can run nitrous on stock motors relaibly for some time. i would go no higher than 60 on a stock motor.. 1.8's and higher.. maybe 70.

Hence my HT login, BUILT B16A, i built my B16 from the bottom up, and ran 100 wet and made 12's.. thats normal for that much power.

but for cruzin around, i ran a 70 shot dry, for about a year, never had a problem, and that was on stock plugs.

 

another thing.. nitrous has the same effects as a turbo car.. exept the pressence of alot more heat.

nitrous setups can run lean, and lean fuels create heat... heat melts things.. tend to blow up things.. lol

turbo's.. can also run lean, take alot longer to heat up.. but at the high boost, will create heat quick.

either way.. you need to have it tunned.. you can take the values the kit tells you, but ultimatly like any running engine needs to be tunned.

you have to find out where that fine line is.. IMO.. i think 60 shot is the fine line on stock engines.. built..? sky's the limit...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Built B16A &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
hahahaha.. what did you forget?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well, funny thing really.. I didnt quite have enough vacuum line to reach over to my fpr from the zex box so I put a joiner inbetween 2 shorter pieces of line.. The vacuum line didnt quite fit snug and it fell off when I was spraying and started detonating really badly.. I think my wideband was showing 30:1 air/fuel or something like that..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Built B16A &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hahahaha.. what did you forget? </TD></TR></TABLE>

To shift?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Built B16A &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
once upon a time, i put a wet kit on my car once, and forget the jets, ran it full bottle pressure.. it was insane.. 3rd gear, 2K RPM broke the tires loose like a top fuel dragster.. it was increadible.. sad to say.. on the way in, hit it once more, and broke about 1/4 inch off each piston top.. it was insane.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Holy ****..... What is that like a 1000 shot or something.. Damn.. When I leaned mine out I melted 4 valves and 2 spark plugs.. Thinking that was all it did I put a new head on it and kept driving and didnt use the juice again on it...... Then came the boost(see below).. Ripped the rod and wrist pin right out of the piston..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b18CrxSi91 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

To shift? </TD></TR></TABLE>

At least I hooked up the vacuum lines, unlike "someone" I know


Oh by the way, If your out tonight stop by tsr, where putting my 3" exhaust on my crx and Steve just got a turbo kit for his car..

 

I just checked my compression like 5 mins ago, every cylinder except the 3rd one has ~190 but the 3rd one has 30 and when i put a little oil in there it had 45 so i guess i need some rings. This happened after a sprayed it for about a 16th of a mile(not over reving or anything) with my 55 shot dry zex system so yes it is bad in a way! But after i fix it im getting rid of the kit! It was fun though, the ***** in some riced probe thought he could embaress me infront of his girlfriend!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tgreaves &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Holy ****..... What is that like a 1000 shot or something.. Damn.. When I leaned mine out I melted 4 valves and 2 spark plugs.. Thinking that was all it did I put a new head on it and kept driving and didnt use the juice again on it......</TD></TR></TABLE>

the funny thing was... sounded like it was a timming belt issue.. but it was still intact. no compressoin at all.. which made me wonder.. did leak down, and ****.. it was comming out of everywhere!

got the head off, and 1/4 of each piston shattered and laying on top of the piston, and wedged in between the valves and seat.

long story short... lol.. honed the CYL. got some 10.5 JE's with Crower rods, and built my 1st FULLY BUILT B16! the head was fine, and at that time, did the whole valve train. now it runs 12's.. all cuz it blew up! hahaha

 

30 going to 45 with an oil shot is a burned/stuck valve, not rings.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Labor_of_Love &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">30 going to 45 with an oil shot is a burned/stuck valve, not rings.</TD></TR></TABLE>

negitive.. it can be either.. youde be surprised what oil in a cyl can do.

leak down compression is the only answer you ALL your questions... it will tell you exactly where its going.. intake, exhaust, PCV. (rings)

oil only makes air harder to pass through cracks.. doesn't pinpoint where leaks form.

 

my manual says its "defenatly the rings" if it does that and anyway i took the valve cover off and got someone to bump the engine a few times and all the valves seem like they are running right(they all are moving the same). I did this problem because the cylinder was not firing , burnt valves would not make it just stop firing would it?

 

am i on the right track

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tgreaves &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

At least I hooked up the vacuum lines, unlike "someone" I know


Oh by the way, If your out tonight stop by tsr, where putting my 3" exhaust on my crx and Steve just got a turbo kit for his car..</TD></TR></TABLE>

I didnt spray without it, i just started the car

damn got it too late, yeah steve showed me pic's

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Built B16A &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">leak down compression is the only answer you ALL your questions... it will tell you exactly where its going.. intake, exhaust, PCV. (rings)</TD></TR></TABLE>

take that to the bank.. ive been in the game for a while.. trust me.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b18CrxSi91 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
damn got it too late, yeah steve showed me pic's</TD></TR></TABLE>

All good.. I was suppose to go down there about 8:30 last night but I fell asleep and didnt wake up till this morning..

 

As failsafes on nitrous kits, i would recommend the following...

MSD RPM activated switch hooked toyour solenoids so nitrous can only be activated over a safe rpm (3000 rpm ATLEAST before spraying)

WOT switch so nitrous can only be activated when the throttle is wide open

ARM switch so you cant spray at unexpected times.

with this setup, there is no "fast and furious" BUTTON to push, plus you get reliable and consistant spray every time.
Arm the nitrous setup, and when you go WOT and over the set rpm, the nitrous automatically sprays.