Hi everyone

I have a mostly stock Integra Type R, and I'm about to put a turbocharger on it.

Is my motor going to melt down the next time I go out to a driving school at Road America or Gingerman? That is pretty much the worst-case scenario for a boosted motor, running for extended durations at mostly WOT.

Any tips? I've already decided on a bigger radiator and oil cooler, oil temp and oil pressure gauge to keep an eye on it. And I'll probably tune conservative at 8 PSI, rich and timing retarded. Enough to get 250-260 WHP but hopefully stay cool-ish.

If no one is running a turbo on a stock motor, what about on a built motor? Any heat and reliability problems?

Thanks,
Chris Fries
1998 ITR #1085

Here's what I'm planning to do to my Type R:

Turbo:
Greddy Turbo Kit (18G)
Greddy Large Front Mount Intercooler
Walbro Fuel Pump
Upgrade oil feed line(s) from GReddy kit.
Greddy E-Manage
Greddy Profec B Spec II Boost Controller
Greddy Type-S BOV

Gauges:
Autometer A/F gauge
Defi D-Gauge Oil Pressure
Defi D-Gauge Oil Temp

Cooling:
Fluidyne Radiator
Greddy Oil Cooler Kit

 

try the Type r forum

 

i think you might be living dangerously; if you really want to try that, i'd try to lower the comp some (thick gasket) and run race fuel (100+ octane) at the track. also, do you have some method for determining the knock status? that would be nice to know....

the last i might mention would be to look into a good water injection system; a properly functioning one should drastically reduce the incidence of knock when you are boosting...

hope you have good luck!

todd

 

My ITR is turbo'd on stock internals, and lap it often. On the track I run low boost (4lbs), and I still see oil temps of 250+. Even with my aftermarket oil cooler, it gets up there in about 15 to 20 mins. The one time I tried to run higher boost (7.5lbs) my oil temps shot up to 260 almost immediatly, and my egt's were DANGEROUSLY high.

With temps that high, I burn a liter of Mobile-1 15/50 oil in 30 mins of lapping. Oil looses alot of it's protective qualities when you push it that hard. Make sure your oil cooler is bigger than you think it should be, and receives adaquate airflow.

Adding a, EGT gauge to your kit wouldn't hurt either.

Edit: at the track I also run with 2.5 gallons of C16 in the tank.

 

Hey Pooface,

I responded to you in email but I want to put this out here too.

How high were your EGTs? Above 1600? Race gas might even make it worse. Does anyone know for sure what effect Race Gas would have on EGT on a setup that isn't detonating on 93 octane?


http://www.streetrodstuff.com/...ation/
Run lean: Higher EGT
Run rich: Lower EGT
Run extra rich: Higher EGT, burning slower/later (same as retard).
Detonate: Lower EGT, higher cylinder head temp.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forum....html (and others)
timing advanced: lower EGT (heat transfers to Pistons/walls/head), higher CHT.
timing retard: higher EGT (barely burned gas gets to exhaust), lower CHT.

http://www.grumman.net/~n4170n....html
Pre-ignition: Off-scale high EGT, empty wallet.
Fouling plugs: Higher EGT (same as retard)
Burned exhaust valve: Creeping EGT higher



-Chris



Modified by ccfries at 11:02 PM 6/16/2004

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ccfries &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How high were your EGTs? Above 1600? Race gas might even make it worse. Does anyone know for sure what effect Race Gas would have on EGT on a setup that isn't detonating on 93 octane?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

My EGT's hit about 1500, 8 inches away from the head, after the turbo. Race gas saved my engine. The stock engine gets real hot when you boost it for long periods, and will make a setup that "doesn't detonate" on 93 octane go pop.

 

Thanks Dylan.

------------------------------------------------

Maybe I'll be the first one on the block with these: Cylinder head temperature gauge(s), 4 in total.

http://www.bughaus.com/cylinde...1.htm

4 of these puppies will let you know (possibly in time to do something about it) if one of your cylinders is knocking or not getting oil, coolant, fuel, etc. The sensor replaces the washer underneath the spark plug.

Airplane builders sure do make reliable engines.

-Chris

 

I have taken my turbo LS to the track 8 times now and the engine is holding up great. On a hot day, I will have heat issues after a few laps, but the main problem is the front mount intercooler blocking air flow. My Fluidyne can't function any better than stock without good air flow.

I was on the track this past Saturday and Sunday... In preparation, I put 4 washers on the hood hinge bolts, removed the engine bay's rear weather strip, removed the plastic piece above the battery, added a lower radiator deflector plate, and cut 2 small holes in the top part of my front bumper. I also turned the boost up to 7 psi. I had far less heat issues than my previous road course adventures at only 6 psi of boost, but I still had issues. The coolant temp was fine Saturday (~80F and cloudy), but started to get hotter than usual after around 5 or 6 laps on Sunday (85F and sunny). On both days, I saw about 10 psi of oil pressure drop on Valvolene SynPower 5w40 oil when it got hot. I think that part of the problem on Sunday was that some bolts started to come loose (pre-turbo exhaust leak) and caused the turbo to work harder (ie more heat). The coolant temperatures were still much better than about a month ago in the same kind of hot weather.

I'm currently working on converting my two ghetto holes in the front bumper to a hopefully non-ghetto looking grill with a much larger opening (shaped and sized sort of like a Civic top grill). I'll also build a structure behind the opening to aim the air at the radiator, because it can currently go just about anywhere. I am also considering an oil cooler, and will probably go with thicker oil as well.

This is all at 5200 ft elevation (ie thin dry air), so I'm more prone to heat problems than you guys at sea level.

BTW: there was a similar thread in this forum a little while ago. It has more info.