Can you name all my winter goodies? (pics)
Z-10 traction bars. Spoon light flywheel, rota slipstreams(or actual spoonies), camera mount, hawk pads, and brake fluid, and braided lines?
Good stuff!
[Modified by ThePunk, 2:50 PM 11/14/2001]
Good stuff!
[Modified by ThePunk, 2:50 PM 11/14/2001]
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man your spoiled

Is that camera mount designed to fit on the headrest supports? And how does that brace work? Where does it attach?
Can you please post more pics of the Slips?
And how does that brace work? Where does it attach?
-Floyd
-Floyd
http://www.z10eng.com
Yea, gunmetal... darker then I expected but doesn't bother me... they're track wheels anyways.. heres some more pics:






man your spoiled
I'm not spoiled, but my car is
Is that camera mount designed to fit on the headrest supports? And how does that brace work? Where does it attach?
Yes. The pegs on the headrest slide through the holes. Here's the link I got the concept from: http://hybrid.honda-perf.org/contrib...t/buildit.html
Can you please post more pics of the Slips?
Sure. hang on
I'm not spoiled, but my car is

Is that camera mount designed to fit on the headrest supports? And how does that brace work? Where does it attach?
Yes. The pegs on the headrest slide through the holes. Here's the link I got the concept from: http://hybrid.honda-perf.org/contrib...t/buildit.html
Can you please post more pics of the Slips?
Sure. hang on
[Modified by R748, 6:45 PM 11/14/2001]
Please be very careful, that thing is awfully close to the head of the driver. If the car were to be in an accident of any kind, I would not want to be the driver. Reconsider using that setup. A safer place is to mount the camera between the rear seat belt anchors. It's a bit more expensive and will make the rear seats useless, but I think your life is more important that good footage.
thanks for you concern though...
[Modified by sackdz, 10:00 PM 11/14/2001]
It's a metal bar, near your head and neck, and it shaved on one side. Yes I agree that you will get hurt in any accident that is enough to either [1] disloge the bar from its mount or [2] move your body/seat enough to contact the bar. However, it may be the difference between decapitation and survival.
The bar seems to go between the headrest and the seat. The head-rest is NOT well anchored to the seat body, in fact, since you have the head-rest pulled up all the way to acomodate the bar, the force required on the head-rest to pry it loose is MUCH less than if the head rest was all the way down. If your car were to roll on the track and you din't have a 3-point harness you body will be thrown about in the cabin. I woudn't want that thing in the cabin, near your head.
I'd be very surprised if that passed tech inspection.
Hey it's your car and your life, I just don't want people to get hurt un-necessarily.
[Modified by R748, 7:11 PM 11/14/2001]
The bar seems to go between the headrest and the seat. The head-rest is NOT well anchored to the seat body, in fact, since you have the head-rest pulled up all the way to acomodate the bar, the force required on the head-rest to pry it loose is MUCH less than if the head rest was all the way down. If your car were to roll on the track and you din't have a 3-point harness you body will be thrown about in the cabin. I woudn't want that thing in the cabin, near your head.
I'd be very surprised if that passed tech inspection.
Hey it's your car and your life, I just don't want people to get hurt un-necessarily.
[Modified by R748, 7:11 PM 11/14/2001]
It's a 1 inch hollow aluminum box tube. The headrest is only raised up 1 inch. There is a significant amount of play at the end of the bar (enough that I think the video might be bouncy
) Also, the ball mount itself is just a clamped ball that will deflect over 90 degrees in any direction (with a strong force), making any impact from the camera much more absorbing.
) Also, the ball mount itself is just a clamped ball that will deflect over 90 degrees in any direction (with a strong force), making any impact from the camera much more absorbing.
i built that camera mount. it works ok. But I developed a better way.
I use one piece of the 1 inch box metal. Its about 18 inches or so. I drilled two holes in it that are about the same size as the headrest poles. It is ABSOLUTELY ESSENTIAL that the holes be spaced perfectly and holes must be ever so slightly larger than the pegs. It may seem to move a little bit, but with image stabilization, it is absolutely smooth.
Ask Yella Dragon
I use one piece of the 1 inch box metal. Its about 18 inches or so. I drilled two holes in it that are about the same size as the headrest poles. It is ABSOLUTELY ESSENTIAL that the holes be spaced perfectly and holes must be ever so slightly larger than the pegs. It may seem to move a little bit, but with image stabilization, it is absolutely smooth.
Ask Yella Dragon
It was such a pain in the *** drilling in between 2 pieces of metal. I would get halfway through, then the bit would always grab to the side. The holes are not very even at all, but with the plastic tubing, the pegs are in there tight. All the movement is from the pegs/seat itself. I know D made a bar that connected both headrests, but it would make moving the seats a pain in the ***. Which I suppose is alright for the track. I'm going to try this out first, if it is too loose, we'll see....
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