Well the engine is pretty much ready to be yanked. All I have if the shift linkage and the mounts, besides this one blasted axle. For those that can't remember its the axle that doesn't have a very good place to pry since the pry area is a few inches wide. I've got this thing out before, but I can't remember the trick I used to pry it out. Thanks in advance.

 

You want to get the driverside axle separated from the intermediate shaft?
If so, take the 32mm socket you used to take the axle nut off, put it between the intermediate shaft and axle, and hammer. it'll separate after a few blows.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TypeR 599 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You want to get the driverside axle separated from the intermediate shaft?
If so, take the 32mm socket you used to take the axle nut off, put it between the intermediate shaft and axle, and hammer. it'll separate after a few blows.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ah that will pop the C clip loose. I'm dumb. Thanks!

If that doesn't work I'll just pull the intermediate shaft.

 

It will work

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TypeR 599 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It will work </TD></TR></TABLE>

Got it. Now I'm working on the blasted shift rod pin. I'll try again tommorrow though, won't have access to my hoist till then anway.

By the way the mosquitos at my house are mutant creations. After 7pm you can forget being outside.

I might have pics up later of these things. It's incredible.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ActiveAero &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Got it. Now I'm working on the blasted shift rod pin. </TD></TR></TABLE>

just to give you the heads up bro...theres a special tool for that. to make your life 1000 x easier..LOL..looks like a little short screw driver thats kind of pointy at the end. hope this helps. i know i could have used it when i was doing it all by myself.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Slow_Em1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just to give you the heads up bro...theres a special tool for that. to make your life 1000 x easier..LOL..looks like a little short screw driver thats kind of pointy at the end. hope this helps. i know i could have used it when i was doing it all by myself. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Roll pin punch.

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr...67000

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Roll pin punch.

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr...67000</TD></TR></TABLE>

I've just recently spent about $300 on an assortment of tools. Of course that wasn't one of them

I might just go fishing today. Screw cars

 

Leave that pin in, just disconnect the linkage at the shifter and drop it with the tranny. 1000x easier.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dr Pooface &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Leave that pin in, just disconnect the linkage at the shifter and drop it with the tranny. 1000x easier.</TD></TR></TABLE>

not dropping the tranny. I'm pulling the whole engine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ActiveAero &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

not dropping the tranny. I'm pulling the whole engine.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Same difference. By all means, do it your way. I just hate fighting that STUPID FU#^ING PIN. *pant...pant*

 

BFH and 8mm punch or 1/4" drive socket fits the pin. If you're a man the pin will come right out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Roll pin punch.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

thank you kind sir

 

The problem is there's usually not enough room under the car to swing a BFH if the car is on jackstands instead of on a lift.

I know I spent an hour trying to get my driver side axle off that intermediate shaft this weekend, and when my car was on a lift, I was able to get that thing off in about 2 seconds, just by swinging a dead-blow hammer at the inner joint.

Does that pin punch set from Sears have an 8.5mm size? I think that's what the Helms specifies to use to get that b!#ch pin out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I know I spent an hour trying to get my driver side axle off that intermediate shaft this weekend, and when my car was on a lift, I was able to get that thing off in about 2 seconds, just by swinging a dead-blow hammer at the inner joint.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Prybar. 2 seconds on jackstands.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Does that pin punch set from Sears have an 8.5mm size? I think that's what the Helms specifies to use to get that b!#ch pin out.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Follow the link, do the necessary SAE --&gt; metric conversion

There are not many places that i've found that sell metric sized punches.

 

I tried using an ~18" prybar when it was on jackstands, there was just no place to pry against. The carrier bearing didn't provide enough surface and it would slip off. I finally got it off by putting a long screwdriver on the inner joint (between it and the bearing) and going to town w/ a real hammer (not a rubber mallet or dead blow).

I never heard of using the 32mm socket, will try that next time.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I tried using an ~18" prybar when it was on jackstands, there was just no place to pry against. </TD></TR></TABLE>

You need a better prybar, I think. The hub (?) on the intermediate shaft is enough surface to pry against.

I have had no problems popping them out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TypeR 599 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You want to get the driverside axle separated from the intermediate shaft?
If so, take the 32mm socket you used to take the axle nut off, put it between the intermediate shaft and axle, and hammer. it'll separate after a few blows.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Can anyone elaborate on this for me, i don't really understand where you would put the 32mm socket wrench between the axle and intermediate shaft. Maybe some pictures, that would help alot, thanks.

 

please someone help me out with this, this is the only part im stuck at before pulling the engine.

 

Easiest but it takes a little longer. is remove the lower castle nut which is a 17mm. This is located on the lower balljoint. Should only take 1 minute to remove. Remove the lower fork.

Remove the 3 14mm bolts that are on the back of the block. This holds your intermediate shaft.

After all this is done, your axle will pop right out. That point, get a punch and seperate the axle from the intermediate shaft and you are all done.