Alright rebuilt axles suck @$$, who sells new axles for a decent price?
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Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Nowhere and Everywhere
Well I returned the too-short axles to AutoZone, got some from NAPA (exact same brand), installed them today and of course, it figures, NASTY HORRIBLE vibration when accelerating thru 2nd gear and in other gears too.
I'm sick of rebuilt axles... I guess I'll either just keep getting free ones on warranty until I get some work, or I'll have to drop some MORE cash on new axles. Who makes or sells new ones (OEM Honda or otherwise) for a decent price?
*edit* just to give you an idea, ever seen a FWD car do a burnout at night and the headlights were vibrating from the wheel hop, yeah my car's headlights looked like that as I was accelerating through 2nd gear.
I'm sick of rebuilt axles... I guess I'll either just keep getting free ones on warranty until I get some work, or I'll have to drop some MORE cash on new axles. Who makes or sells new ones (OEM Honda or otherwise) for a decent price?
*edit* just to give you an idea, ever seen a FWD car do a burnout at night and the headlights were vibrating from the wheel hop, yeah my car's headlights looked like that as I was accelerating through 2nd gear.
Is it the whole axel thats smaller or just the part that connects to the intermediate shaft is smaller?
I got a rebuilt axel for my drivers side since I stripped the threads on the original one and I paid a solid 65$ plus core for a rebuilt. I went to my local performance shop and asked what year integra I have. He said that the newer ones have a different connection then the older ones (male vs female) and Im talking about gen 3 only. He also asked if I had abs which I do, so I dunno if napa asked you that or not.
But if the axel is bigger itself I dont think its a problem. Whats most important is the part the connects to the intermediate shaft.
I got a rebuilt axel for my drivers side since I stripped the threads on the original one and I paid a solid 65$ plus core for a rebuilt. I went to my local performance shop and asked what year integra I have. He said that the newer ones have a different connection then the older ones (male vs female) and Im talking about gen 3 only. He also asked if I had abs which I do, so I dunno if napa asked you that or not.
But if the axel is bigger itself I dont think its a problem. Whats most important is the part the connects to the intermediate shaft.
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Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Nowhere and Everywhere
Well the axles did change at some point according to Carland Acura, but I can't tell what the difference is, other than the newer ones are about $130 more expensive apiece.
When I was saying the other axles were too short, I mean the overall length from inboard to outboard joint was over 1" shorter than spec (the ones I returned, not the ones on my car now).
Everything fit together perfectly on these axles I just installed, although the passenger side inner boot seems to be extended out a bit farther than it should after everything was reassembled, but that is probably just because the smaller clamp on the inboard joint was tightened too far towards the middle of the shaft, making it appear to be extended out farther.
When I was saying the other axles were too short, I mean the overall length from inboard to outboard joint was over 1" shorter than spec (the ones I returned, not the ones on my car now).
Everything fit together perfectly on these axles I just installed, although the passenger side inner boot seems to be extended out a bit farther than it should after everything was reassembled, but that is probably just because the smaller clamp on the inboard joint was tightened too far towards the middle of the shaft, making it appear to be extended out farther.
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From: Nowhere and Everywhere
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LT6916 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I fear that my dad's mechanic may have installed rebuilt axles on my car. I do get some vibration while accelerating through the lower gears...</TD></TR></TABLE>
If the vibration occurs only while the engine is under load (stops when you take your foot off the gas pedal), then yeah it's probably the inner CV joints.
If it's all the time then it's more likely to be wheel balance.
If the vibration occurs only while the engine is under load (stops when you take your foot off the gas pedal), then yeah it's probably the inner CV joints.
If it's all the time then it's more likely to be wheel balance.
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I don't know, I got the remanufactured axles from NAPA and they're fine. I know you most likely didn't miss it, but when I was doing mine, I replaced a whole bunch of parts as just maintenance and some of them took a little bit of time to align correctly to have the car drive smoothly, are you sure nothing else could be causing that?
hmm...this is interesting. Reman axles can actually be better than new OEM axles. Since, the reman ones were probably very worn when they were rebuilt, larger bearings were probably used in them, which in their case, will make them stronger.
It's cool to get free ones through warranty and stuff, but, it's more the pain in the *** and pain in your time schedule to constantly change them that bites.
I don't know what's done to your car or what you use it for, but, how about something like gator axles or some high performance ones?
It's cool to get free ones through warranty and stuff, but, it's more the pain in the *** and pain in your time schedule to constantly change them that bites.
I don't know what's done to your car or what you use it for, but, how about something like gator axles or some high performance ones?
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Nowhere and Everywhere
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ScreaminTeg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hmm...this is interesting. Reman axles can actually be better than new OEM axles. Since, the reman ones were probably very worn when they were rebuilt, larger bearings were probably used in them, which in their case, will make them stronger.
It's cool to get free ones through warranty and stuff, but, it's more the pain in the *** and pain in your time schedule to constantly change them that bites.
I don't know what's done to your car or what you use it for, but, how about something like gator axles or some high performance ones? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Stock motor, no plans for any major upgrades at this time. That would make high performance axles a waste of money really. I don't know about that larger bearing thing... you think the people that rebuild them actually take the time to find a larger-than-stock bearing that will fit correctly? Probably not.
The Raxles website talks about the drawbacks of using worn tulip joints and stuff, and they talk about how their axles use only brand new joints, etc. I may look into Raxles, actually.
Those HASport ones from JHP look nice, but it would be nice if they had the rubber harmonic balancer on them like stock. Gator Stage 1's are cheaper than those HASport's, and do have the harmonic balancers.
It's cool to get free ones through warranty and stuff, but, it's more the pain in the *** and pain in your time schedule to constantly change them that bites.
I don't know what's done to your car or what you use it for, but, how about something like gator axles or some high performance ones? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Stock motor, no plans for any major upgrades at this time. That would make high performance axles a waste of money really. I don't know about that larger bearing thing... you think the people that rebuild them actually take the time to find a larger-than-stock bearing that will fit correctly? Probably not.
The Raxles website talks about the drawbacks of using worn tulip joints and stuff, and they talk about how their axles use only brand new joints, etc. I may look into Raxles, actually.
Those HASport ones from JHP look nice, but it would be nice if they had the rubber harmonic balancer on them like stock. Gator Stage 1's are cheaper than those HASport's, and do have the harmonic balancers.
THats weird, I've had my Auto zone axles for a while now and theyve been great. Goos luck man, changing out axles is a bitch.
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Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Nowhere and Everywhere
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SwedBoy2999 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">changing axles is not that big of a job...</TD></TR></TABLE>
It is when you're working in a garage w/ 2 cars parked in there and very little room underneath the car.
But hopefully today I'll be changing these out again while the car is on a lift.
It is when you're working in a garage w/ 2 cars parked in there and very little room underneath the car.
But hopefully today I'll be changing these out again while the car is on a lift.
I've been having the same problem in my R. I eventually got the vibration workled out with new remans from Advance and a new OEM intermediate shaft. After 500 miles or so the vibration seems to be coming abck. I'm gonna get another passenger side axle since I have the lifetime warranty and see if that fixes the problem.
Always be very wary of rebuilt axles. This past weekend I got a replacement from Advance Auto. I got the inner CV into the intermediate shaft, then I realized the outer CV did not move. I pulled the axle out and beat it against the ground and it still didn't move. The damn thing must have been put together wrong so I had to go bring it back, get my core back, and then go to another store to get another. What a PITA.
isnt the outer cv joint fixed, like not supposed to move?
i dunno...correct me if im wrong
raxle.com says the outer cv joint on FWD cars is fixed..
i dunno...correct me if im wrong
raxle.com says the outer cv joint on FWD cars is fixed..
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Nowhere and Everywhere
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 96integra »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">isnt the outer cv joint fixed, like not supposed to move?
i dunno...correct me if im wrong
raxle.com says the outer cv joint on FWD cars is fixed..</TD></TR></TABLE>
The outer joint pivots only (when the front wheels are steered), while the inner joint pivots a little (suspension movement) but mainly telescopes, because the axle pivots along a longer radius than the control arms do.
i dunno...correct me if im wrong
raxle.com says the outer cv joint on FWD cars is fixed..</TD></TR></TABLE>
The outer joint pivots only (when the front wheels are steered), while the inner joint pivots a little (suspension movement) but mainly telescopes, because the axle pivots along a longer radius than the control arms do.
I got some reman. axles, and my car shakes like crazy from 60-80 mph, and it does it only when there is a load on it, the vibration is the worst in 5th gear. I got an alignment, i got the tires rotaterd/balanced, and it still does it. Im in the market for some new ones as well, but i dont know what to get either. i can get the reman. ones through a friend for $39 a piece with his work discount, so i might do that and hope for the best!
There's no way the outer CV could be fixed. The suspension moves up and down and you have to turn the hubs when you steer. Not to mention you could never get the axles in there if they didn't move. The outer CV would actually move more than the inner CV.
I used to have vibrations too when accelerating with autozone axles. I bought reman axles from honda and the problem went away.
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Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Nowhere and Everywhere
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jonsteR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I used to have vibrations too when accelerating with autozone axles. I bought reman axles from honda and the problem went away.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Honda sells remanufactured axles?? How much?
I think the vibration problem with remanufactured axles lies in the fact that the bearing tolerances inside the inner joint might be too much. From Raxles:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Raxles »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Good Reasons Not To Buy CV Driveaxles With Reground Components:
1. It is virtually impossible to take used parts and hold them in position for consistent regrinding. Inconsistent regrinding results in an inferior product.
II. In order to clean up the wear on the internal components, you must grind into the case hardening. Once you have removed the hardening you have reduced the part's resistance to wear. The part would be predisposed to failure.
Ill. CV driveaxles with reground components have been found to have excessively high failure rates. Rebuilding with new quality components has been the only method found to provide an acceptable, long-term solution.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Honda sells remanufactured axles?? How much?
I think the vibration problem with remanufactured axles lies in the fact that the bearing tolerances inside the inner joint might be too much. From Raxles:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Raxles »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Good Reasons Not To Buy CV Driveaxles With Reground Components:
1. It is virtually impossible to take used parts and hold them in position for consistent regrinding. Inconsistent regrinding results in an inferior product.
II. In order to clean up the wear on the internal components, you must grind into the case hardening. Once you have removed the hardening you have reduced the part's resistance to wear. The part would be predisposed to failure.
Ill. CV driveaxles with reground components have been found to have excessively high failure rates. Rebuilding with new quality components has been the only method found to provide an acceptable, long-term solution.</TD></TR></TABLE>







