Stock integra brackets not modified just switched drivers side to pass. and pass. to drivers so the bar will fit in the stock d-brackets. is it ok for those brackets that mount the bar to the subframe to be ~2" closer towards the middle. what difference does it make where on the bar they are mounted? also, this shouldn't have any problems with tearout right? btw, the total cost was $50 w/ dealer discount

 

you're gonna have a higher chance of tearing out your subframe if you're not using a reinforcement kit like the Beaks/BSQ.

http://www.geocities.com/bretq/swaybar_install.html

 

ummmm yeah you should have let me drill out the bushing some more hahaha so yeah. I found I found some one piece lights for the G2 so umm yeah. I need to order it you might think its cool or corney but oh well one piece ise one piece. which means no BS to deal with when adjusting.

 

ummm yeah.

 

That setup WILL tearout the subframe in time. I highly advise removing it or taking it very easy on the driving until you get a mount kit that will allow you to mount the bar directly to the subframe.

Those stock mounting brackets are a POS design if you ask me.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That setup WILL tearout the subframe in time. I highly advise removing it or taking it very easy on the driving until you get a mount kit that will allow you to mount the bar directly to the subframe.

Those stock mounting brackets are a POS design if you ask me. </TD></TR></TABLE>

agreed...id be very careful

 

I recommend not driving the car until you get the mounting kit. The cost of the kit it going to be ALOT less that repairing the damage that will happen WHEN that bar rips out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurboedGSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> so the bar will fit in the stock d-brackets. </TD></TR></TABLE>
So you used the original brackets? with no bushings?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RuskeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I recommend not driving the car until you get the mounting kit. The cost of the kit it going to be ALOT less that repairing the damage that will happen WHEN that bar rips out. </TD></TR></TABLE>

If he's lucky, the bolts will come out instead of the whole subframe tearing out...

But still, please get it fixed. A BSQ kit is very affordable.

-NRg

 

the big swaybar doesn't twist. the force will be transferred to those brackets to a higher degree. the force is an upward force and will tear the sheet metal.

buy the BSQ kit. it transfers the force to a larger area rather than just a square centimeter of metal. get either a bsq or comptech or similar kit.

i hope you didn't install the turbo in the same short-cut measure.

 

i see subframe tearout in your immediate future...
Please exercise caution

 

Spend the $20, buy a good mounting kit, and you'll never have to worry about it again. My ITR rear sway bar has held up fine for a year now. BSQ has had his for 6 years now.

 

You need to buy:

- A reinforcement mounting kit
- 2 ITR mounting brackets
- 2 ITR bushings

 

hmm we got lucky it didnt tear out when we check it out in the parking lot. I am guessing

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That setup WILL tearout the subframe in time. I highly advise removing it or taking it very easy on the driving until you get a mount kit that will allow you to mount the bar directly to the subframe.

Those stock mounting brackets are a POS design if you ask me. </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Not to steal your thread but, are you able to go to your local hardware store and buy the exact BSQ kit instead of buying it from the original person? (becuase of shipping time and wise) thanks

 

click on the link, the info is there.

Well after looking at it for 5 minutes i realized that little bracket with it's offset sway mounting points serves as leverage on the bolts attached to the subframe. I've only heard about people tearing the subframe when they bolt bushing brackets directly on the non flat subframe surface. couldn't find a case using flipped stock brackets so I dont know if the leverage is enough to tear the subframe but i guess i won't take the chance. this is what i did as well as some extra pictures for reference if anyone needs them:

plan was to use a srr lower tie bar and use its swaybar mounting points, didnt work at first.


this is the stock brackets in the stock configuration. i guess they used the stock gsr mounting points, but who wants a 14mm bar


flipped


my fabbing skillzzz


final product


now i'm thinking if maybe i should break the nuts inside and place washers between the nut and frame

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by steven975 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i hope you didn't install the turbo in the same short-cut measure.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes, it consists mostly of zip ties and jb weld

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SMC GSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So you used the original brackets? with no bushings? </TD></TR></TABLE>
close



I'll replace them with something better once i find that something

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HFsleepa &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ummmm yeah you should have let me drill out the bushing some more hahaha so yeah. I found I found some one piece lights for the G2 so umm yeah. I need to order it you might think its cool or corney but oh well one piece ise one piece. which means no BS to deal with when adjusting.</TD></TR></TABLE>

damn, that was random

edit: the first two pics are supposed to show how the bar didnt fit cause it was at an angle by that point