alright my battery isnt charging very good...ive hooked up a voltometer up to my alternator and grounded it..it reads over 14v which is good...so i ran the ground over to the negative side of the battery and got the same reading so i guess that means my ground is fine

but when i run it straight from pos to neg on the battery it fluctuates from 10-11...so where is the power loss?

this all started after i fucked up the wiring to my ECU...accidentally cut the blue alternator wire from B14 to the ECU....ive hooked it back up but it didnt fix my problem

one more thing is....the bolt that holds the power cable that comes out of the alternator gets extremely hot...even when the rest of the engine is still cold...nothign else is hot cept for that one part...the alternator itself stays cool, is this normal?

 

sounds like you have an open between the alternator and battery, maybe a short considering the heat on that post.

 

your alternator is probly not charging start the car and hook up your volt meater the the pos and neg post of the battery you should be getting right around 14 volts plus or minus .2-.3 while running. if not that check for voltage draw take off the neg battery wire and hook up a test light in series from the neg battery wire to the neg post. if the car is off and the key is not in the ignition the should be no draw witch mean the light wont light up, if it does there is something is shorted and most likley bi-passins the electrical switch. start with that and let me know how it goes. if none of that help let me know i have a few other ideas.

 

heres some pictures

this is run from the post on the top of the alternator, grounded to the shock tower while the car is running



then this is for Kyle...i dont think i understood you correctly but this is hooked up with the car OFF....from the negative post on the battery to the negative wire...



i tried the test light like i have the voltometer wired up to the post and wire...and the light didnt come on...

 

There is always going to be some current draw from the battery even with the car off.

1. Radio's constant 12v wire for memory/settings
2. ECU constant 12v.

It's AMPs you need to check. The manual has specific #'s that should not been seen.


Did you solder the wire that u cut @ the ecu?

 

orginally i did...but after getting frustrated i ripped all the wires back apart and just twisted them back together temporarily

now i cant find the damn solder but i guess im going to find it or go buy some more asap...

EDIT: can i measure amps wit that multimeter?

 

check to make sure your battery cables are on tight. i had the same exact problem, and it turns out the battery cables were lose. after tightening them, everything was fine. hope that helps

 

i wish it were that easy...ive got them pretty tight...

 

your batterys state of charge is a little low i mean it can drop down to 9.6 volts and still be consitered ok but i dont think it would stay above that if you put a load on the battery. i think your alternator is bad you need to load test it and see what the output is also are and of the wire going to or coming from the alternator striped or bare if so check to see if there touching a ground if they are you could be just grounding all the output from your alternator. good luck check that blue wire make sure your connection is good, solder it if you can.

 

9.6?...my car wont start if it drops at all below 12volts

 

it should deffently crank below 12 volts if it doesnt you also have a starter draw problem

 

I have a voltmeter in my car and when i start it the volts drop way less then 9v. Car always starts fine tho.

 

hmm so what should i do about that?

 

I would re-solder that blue wire at b14. maybe causing too much resistance due to poor connection.

 

would my old alternator from my d-series work on my b-series?

 

probly just make sure the pullys are the same if not just put the pully from the b-series on the one from the d series. also make sure the out put spec's are the same.