hey guys what's up i've searched and found some answers but im not positive what's wrong with my situation is the CMC or SMC ... started about 3 days ago ... i got in my 94 civic ex coupe ... and the clutch pedal was really loose, no pressure at all until about 2 inches from the floor.... very uncomfortable driving and when starting wouldn't even let me get in reverse ... had to turn off the car put in reverse and then start it ... after about 2 hours of driving the pedal seemed to return to normal then after about a 10 minute short stop it was back to the lack of pressure feeling until really low to the ground... now today was the worst it was hard to up and downshift ... i almost started rolling backwards down a mountain ... i need info quick lol... supposed to be going to six flags on monday n def not driving like this ... if i DO need to bleed the cylinder(s) i will try to find a write-up on how to ... i've never done the brakes or this but i assume it's hold pedal open valve closed valve then release pedal ... possibly im wrong ... post gettin too long sorry to bore .. later

 

yeah try bleeding it... you're gonna need 2 people one to push the clutch and the other to open/close the bleeder screw good luck, have fun at 6 flags

and here is what Helms says to do as far as bleeding the clutch

1. Put a hose on the bleeder at the slave cylnder. put end of hose in an empty bottle.
2.Crack open bleeder.
3. Uncap clutch resiviour, make sure it is full.
4. Slowly pump and pull the clutch pedal with your hand. This will pump fluid through sytsem.
5. Keep an eye on the resiviour, dont let it go below the empty line. You should need to add fluid every 5 to 8 pump strokes.
6. Keep pumping and filling till you see no air come out of the hose on the bleeder.
7. Close bleeder.
8. Test clutch pedal.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EGRhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah try bleeding it... you're gonna need 2 people one to push the clutch and the other to open/close the bleeder screw good luck, have fun at 6 flags </TD></TR></TABLE>
gravity bleeding owns you.

remove clutch master cap, open the bleeter. watch fluid run out (may take a few seconds for fluid to flow)

dont need 2 people for that.

 

just let the fluid out on the ground? lol

 

bah! I've always done it with 2 people and haven't had any problems... you know, whatever works

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 976 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wow, misinformed.
!!!!!You cannot properly bleed brakes/clutch with one person. Unless you use some specific equipment.!!!!!

1. Make sure resivior is full
2. Pump clutch, slowly, wait 2 seconds after every pump. Do 4-8 times. Hold clutch pedal as hard as you can.
3. Have friend (whomever) open bleed screw on slave cylinder (8mm) until all the fluid comes out.
4. Close bleed screw
5. Release pressure from clutch pedal
6. Repeat, as many times as you want, to get clean fluid and all air bubbles removed.

IM me if you need anymore help.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

thx for the writeup

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ibe2fly &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just let the fluid out on the ground? lol</TD></TR></TABLE>
*smack*
drip it into a pan.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EGRhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bah! I've always done it with 2 people and haven't had any problems... you know, whatever works </TD></TR></TABLE>
it works eithre way, but gravity bleeding dosent take 2 people.

 

lol i stated before im a no0b .... im currently looking for the bleed cap...looking through my chiltons book ...:-\

 

if you look where the block stamp is, its right to the left... there is a hard line that goes around the tranny mount and then right in front of the transmission... if you have someone push the clutch in you should see it move... (hopefully) there might be a boot over it though GL

 

air can only get in if theres a leak or you lost all your fluid and air got in through the reservoir.

its the SAME as a brake system.

if your brake pedal sinks to the floor, its either you have a leak or your master is bad.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ibe2fly &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just let the fluid out on the ground? lol</TD></TR></TABLE>

a rag works good bc it usually comes out with hella pressure.

 

i checked my master brake cylinder and the fluid was filled to the top ... none was in the slave ... does that help? i mean i don't want to bleed it and there's a leak and it happens again .. so worse case scenario ... the master cyl is bad ... i looked in the book ... that's an easy install correct? no jacking up of car and no removal of major car components ?

 

theres more components than the clutch master cylinder, u have to check the slave cylinder too.

 

the brake master cylinder has nothing to do with it....

u need to check the clutch cylinder resevoir... the smaller one to the right of brake resevoir... IT SHOULD BE RIGHT AT THE MAX LINE.

if it is your clutch cylinder look under your dash where it comes through the firewall... it attached to the clutch pedal. if there is fluid all under there than that is your leak and you need a new clutch cylinder. they are an easy install and fairly cheap ~$70 from Honda i think.

OR, your slave cylinder could be bad... basically the trrick is to find where the leak is because it HAS to be going somewhere if there is none in the resevoir.

 

i call it clutch master cylinder.. sorry. same thing.

 

the smaller one to the right was completly empty lol .. i checked by my pedal on the floor inside of the car there was no fluid anywhere on it ... so that means i have a leak but not leaking inside the car perhaps?

 

add more fluid and see if it drains out again...

check all around the slave cylinder now...

then around all the nuts that connect the lines... make sure they are tight.

 

ok i think my slave's gone bad ... i opened the valve, pushed pedal all the way down, put a wood block to keep pedal down, then closed valve, took wood off pedal and then opened valve pushed it in again and held with the wood block.... first 3 times i heard sputttering like there was air being pushed out, next couple times there was no sound at all.... i didn't notice until about the 3rd time I closed the valve but the lower of the 2 screws on the slave was rusted brown and there was fluid around it ... the leak probably rusted the screw ... hence i need a new slave .... did i bleed right? this was my first time ... please any guidance or suggestions will help alot! o yeah i noticed there was some fluid coming through on the inside of the car as well where the slave is

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just caled junkyard they have one for $30 in a car .. he said he's not taking it out until i get there so ill be back going to try n install hehe ... later guyz


Modified by ibe2fly at 9:49 AM 6/7/2004

 

what a nub i am ... i went to the junkyard got the piece out and ready to go and realized this is the wrong piece .... i need the master clutch cylinder not a good day at all for me ... anyway i had to come home to get more money because they want $65 for it. well here i go again .. lata

 

the clutch cylinder is the one on the top on the firewall, the slave is the one down on the bottom on the tranny

 

yeah i agree with someoen above. DO you have fluid in the cylinder?? mine was empty and was doign the same thing. my clutch was kinda catchy when this happened . could launch really well . haha. but yeah. this post should be everything you need to try

 

i followed the line coming out of the CMC all the way to where it disappears under the battery somewhere .... it's gettin dark out ... im going to pick up the used CMC for $60 tomorrow @ the junk yard until i get some cash n buy one from nopi lol see u guys tomorrow

 

i think a new one isnt more than 60$

 

on nopi it's like $30 advance auto parts it's like $79-$94 ... think i should get money back and just buy a new one for $10 more dollars with a 3 month warranty from AA ... the $94.28 comes with a lifetime warranty