BEST place to mount the control unit of an alarm?
hey guys,
i just got a clifford 2.5x and i'm planning on installing it tomorrow. i have a 92 hatch. i'm gonna take my time and be very detail oriented. i wanna install it the best way possible...where do you guys think would be the best place to mount the control unit and such?
thx
i just got a clifford 2.5x and i'm planning on installing it tomorrow. i have a 92 hatch. i'm gonna take my time and be very detail oriented. i wanna install it the best way possible...where do you guys think would be the best place to mount the control unit and such?
thx
The longer it takes for you to get to it, the longer it'll take the theif to do the same.
But if i were to install it, i'd mount it as far away from the steering column as possible, that's where most people mount it. As a theif, i would probably look there first.
But if i were to install it, i'd mount it as far away from the steering column as possible, that's where most people mount it. As a theif, i would probably look there first.
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It don't matter...the theif don't need to get to the brain of the alarm to disable it anyway. (there are three points to bypass and disable any alarm, which I won't mention here, and the control unit is not one of them.)
Usually, you mount the control unit behind the dashboard by the drivers side. You need to get access to it for servicing purposes too.
Usually, you mount the control unit behind the dashboard by the drivers side. You need to get access to it for servicing purposes too.
Eric's R is right , best place is drivers side or close as most of your hook ups are on that side , hide it as best as you can ,but mount it so you can get at it and drop it down to work on if need be. Keep it neat and tiedy,remove [by depinning] all wires not being used, do not "wadd up" wires you are useing ,cut to lenth. Remember your alarm is a "CPU" and it needs clean power and grounds ,SOLDER all your conn. ,every wire you have to tag into has a plug someplace with a metal pin in it [depin solder alarm wire to it repin] use it ,no cuting cars harness hope this helps 94
i realize this may be too late but this may be stuff to consider asking your installer to do - he prob knows what he's doing, but you can approach him in a "just in case cause i'm paranoid" type of attitude (so he won't be offended)
1) Wire up the alarm somewhere nice like under the dash
2) solder all connections (ask him this, don't tell him)
3) fuse inputs such as parking lights, doorlocks (if not already in the alarm harness) to prevent damage from feedback.
4) use a relay on both the starter for a kill and the ignition
5) wire in a fuel cut for you (offer no more than $20) if you'd like a passive cut (so you push a button before starting rather than turning on and off a switch) offer no more than $20 extra (all it takes is an extra relay...but the labour is what u want to be done well)
6) re-locate your hood wire - or do it yourself (offer no more than $40)
7) mount your shock sensor somewhere central rather than dangling it
8) use a backstrap on the alarm if possible and keep away from any grounds.
9) INSTALL a hoodpin switch (offer no more than $15-25) and if it cannot be wired in directly, he should diode isolate it to an instant trigger.
10) don't put your damn valet switch in your damn fusepanel....for the love of god.
anyways, hopefully these 10 tips should help you on your way to having a great install. the prices i suggested are just estimates - i'm not an installed, or a professional, i'm just a DIY - so be fair with the shop guy - you pay for crap...guess what you'll get.
-Shane
EDIT: ahhh please excuse..i just realized after reading twice to make sure i answered your question as well as give some advice that your not getting it installed - your doing it youself.....good luck - and TAKE your time - don't go cutting wires! :D
you might also have more room to work if your not used to being cramped by taking out your front seat...
1) Wire up the alarm somewhere nice like under the dash
2) solder all connections (ask him this, don't tell him)
3) fuse inputs such as parking lights, doorlocks (if not already in the alarm harness) to prevent damage from feedback.
4) use a relay on both the starter for a kill and the ignition
5) wire in a fuel cut for you (offer no more than $20) if you'd like a passive cut (so you push a button before starting rather than turning on and off a switch) offer no more than $20 extra (all it takes is an extra relay...but the labour is what u want to be done well)
6) re-locate your hood wire - or do it yourself (offer no more than $40)
7) mount your shock sensor somewhere central rather than dangling it
8) use a backstrap on the alarm if possible and keep away from any grounds.
9) INSTALL a hoodpin switch (offer no more than $15-25) and if it cannot be wired in directly, he should diode isolate it to an instant trigger.
10) don't put your damn valet switch in your damn fusepanel....for the love of god.
anyways, hopefully these 10 tips should help you on your way to having a great install. the prices i suggested are just estimates - i'm not an installed, or a professional, i'm just a DIY - so be fair with the shop guy - you pay for crap...guess what you'll get.
-Shane
EDIT: ahhh please excuse..i just realized after reading twice to make sure i answered your question as well as give some advice that your not getting it installed - your doing it youself.....good luck - and TAKE your time - don't go cutting wires! :D
you might also have more room to work if your not used to being cramped by taking out your front seat...
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