Does anyone have a PDF of this?
I posted before if someone has a PDF of the power window assembly and was quite surprised and pleased that someone posted it.

I have never done a tune up before and I am expecting parts to arrive tomorrow.

1. Plugs
2. Wires
3. Cap and Rotor.

I did a search and copied and pasted all the text instructions but since I don't even consider myself a novice weekend mechanic, photo instructions helps me a lot, like when I installed my rear sway bar and Icebox.

Thanks in advance.

 

my manual is at the mechanics shop. but ill give you a quick walk through.

its very easy and you should be able to do without pics.

1. plugs
start by marking the spark plug wires with #'s 1-4 so you dont mix them up. then you can begin pulling out the spark plug wires. get yourself an extension bar a regular 3/8 ratchet and a spark plug socket. a spark plug socket has a rubber piece in it that grips onto the electrode so it can be air lifted out of the chamber. set the proper gap on the new spark plug, put a light coating of anti-seize to make future removal easier. you can use the same spark plug remover to put them in, if you do put them in loosely or else the rubber grip wont let you pull the socket off itll be stuck on the spark plug. or you can use a deep socket that fits the spark plug to tighten it. only hand tighten it, its not supposed to be super tight. make sure the extension is centered with your hand so you dont accidently damage the threads. repeat the process for all.
2. wires
take the old distributor cap off, theyre 8mm screws holding the cap onto the distributor. once you take the whole cap off put it next to the new one, and match it up so you can insert the wires the same exact way. they simply pop in and out just like they did from the spark plug.
3. cap and rotor
you already have the cap removed, so now the rotor. there is a little screw that holds the rotor onto the mount. you can crank the motor to spin the rotor to better access it. now the rotor might be stuck so you can use a little screw driver and gently pry it out. (on mine it was stuck so bad i completely crushed the old rotor and the metal piece was remaing and it was a bitch to get off but i finally got it.) make a note to remember what postiton the rotor was before taking it off, and install it the same exact way. its not hard because it has a special shape like a puzzle piece to make sure it only goes in that way.
replace the screw to secure it on the mount.
replace the cap, replace the screws, and replug the spark plug wires in the correct order. look at the old wires which you marked by #'s as a reference to double check.

start your car and enjoy the mechanical work you did all by yourself.

hope this helped.
sorry for no pictures.

 

Thanks a bunch and for the anti sieze tip. I will pick one up today.

 

your welcome.

 

I will finally have some time this Saturday to do this for the first time. I never done this before.
How long do you think will a "rookie" weekend mechanic take? The wife and I have a party to go to at around 2pm so I just wondering if I should wake up really early.

Also, any "make sure you don't do this" tips? Thanks again.

 

Be very careful with the screw that holds the rotor on. It strips very easy, use a good screwdriver that fits it perfect. Might want to just go buy a new one from the dealer if you happen to molest the one you need to take out.

 

Remember to put some dielectric grease inside the spark plug wire boots that will come in contact with your plugs. It often comes in a little package with the anti-sieze lubricant.

Also, number your spark plugs by cylinder when you take them out in case there are any defects, oil, etc. It helps in diagnosing many problems, as seen in this link.

http://www.bullittarchive.com/...Plugs/

 

dielectric grease, thanks for that one.

I already picked up the anti sieze compound.

 

Just making sure, I just bought some OEM NGK Platinums. Are they pre gapped?
Thanks again.

 

No, when I recently replaced my plugs, I bought the stocker NGK BP6 plugs and they needed to be gapped

 

Platinum plugs come pre gapped. Never try to gap a plat plug as you may damage the eclectrode.

 

when replacing the plugs MAKE SURE the head is cooled down because if you put the plugs into a hot head and tighten it...when it cools off, it'll get even tighter and be a bitch to get out.