I need to buy a 2 doors sensors, a hood sensor and a trunk sensor.

I have had 4 Car audio systems lifted from me. its time i upgrade my alarms.

I know i will have to use diodes or something to hook these up to my input wire to the alarm unit but i need to. also a backup batter. can someone help me with ideas/instructions?

right now they open my door hold the door sensor down(this disables the voltage sensor) then pop the hood and disconnect the battery. or so thats what i think.

so please H-T help me. dont flame about a search i searched door trigger/sensor alarm sensor... blah blah....

Thank u ahead of time.

 

Anyone know where to buy these extra parts? please help?

 

well i will try to look around more...

 

http://www.directed.com/
I am not sure about alarm accessories though.

 

are you just setting up an alarm for the first time?

you could buy a PIN SWITCH for the hood, run to alarm

wire your trunk light to the alarm for the trunk "sensor" thus utilising the factory switch which is perfectly adjusted (if trunk light goes on = trunk open = alarm should sound)

ditto for the two doors, connect to your domelight wire. Domelight on, door open, alarm sounds


try it!
Shane.

 

Yeah right now i have an alarm... i got the hood pin. dome light is already hooked up and the Trunk in the DX civics came without a light so do you know what kind of a backup battery i need? a good one? i am also installing 2 additional sirens. now if i connect 2 more sirens wont that cause more power to be drawn from my alarm unit? if so i dont want to draw to much power is there a way around this?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EclipticX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah right now i have an alarm... i got the hood pin. dome light is already hooked up and the Trunk in the DX civics came without a light so do you know what kind of a backup battery i need? a good one? i am also installing 2 additional sirens. now if i connect 2 more sirens wont that cause more power to be drawn from my alarm unit? if so i dont want to draw to much power is there a way around this?</TD></TR></TABLE>

The sirens pull power from the battery, not the brain itself. The DEI backup battery is okay, but IMO it's garbage as the battery loses its charge after a year. You have a two door right? Why not swap door handles rear door handles of another car, (4 door) so you don't have the keyholes. Also, do hood pop actuator, along with mecury switches, and you are set to go. Hood pop actuator is very nice, as they cannot get to your hood without your remote. So, no need for battery backup, just get a siren that has battery backup on it. Code alarm has a very nice unit. I only say do this because if they cannot get under your hood, they cannot stop the siren from going off, but if you only have the siren hooked into the alarm, all the have to do is snip the 12v constant at the brain and say bye bye siren.

 

battery backup siren is the way to go - although yes - mine also lost the ability to hold charge after like a year (poo...i'll try opening and replacing it or something)

I'm assuming your connecting your 12v output wire to each siren, and then having them grounded locally. If your connecting more than one, I *THINK* you should be fine, since an internal relay switches constant 12 to the siren 12v output wire.

If you'd like to be safe, you could always wire in a relay, and switch on 100 sirens if you'd like.

-Rage

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by o_Rage_o &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">battery backup siren is the way to go - although yes - mine also lost the ability to hold charge after like a year (poo...i'll try opening and replacing it or something)

I'm assuming your connecting your 12v output wire to each siren, and then having them grounded locally. If your connecting more than one, I *THINK* you should be fine, since an internal relay switches constant 12 to the siren 12v output wire.

If you'd like to be safe, you could always wire in a relay, and switch on 100 sirens if you'd like.

-Rage</TD></TR></TABLE><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by itr_dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The sirens pull power from the battery, not the brain itself. The DEI backup battery is okay, but IMO it's garbage as the battery loses its charge after a year. You have a two door right? Why not swap door handles rear door handles of another car, (4 door) so you don't have the keyholes. Also, do hood pop actuator, along with mecury switches, and you are set to go. Hood pop actuator is very nice, as they cannot get to your hood without your remote. So, no need for battery backup, just get a siren that has battery backup on it. Code alarm has a very nice unit. I only say do this because if they cannot get under your hood, they cannot stop the siren from going off, but if you only have the siren hooked into the alarm, all the have to do is snip the 12v constant at the brain and say bye bye siren.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks for good feedback guys.

 

Also I have heard to thieves removing the glass from your back window to get inside without disturbing the shock sensor or pin switches.
Best way around that is to have a normally open magnetic switch stuck to the trunk with the magnet part on the glass.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by o_Rage_o &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">battery backup siren is the way to go - although yes - mine also lost the ability to hold charge after like a year (poo...i'll try opening and replacing it or something)

</TD></TR></TABLE>

How did you know it went bad? I've got one on order now, and this is the first I've heard of it...