99 prelude -- clutch to the floor
my clutch is so soft it goes to the floor before it allows gear change -- and 2-3 times recently (this week) it hasnt allowed gear change even at the floor. i have learned to change gears without it, but i 'd like to correct it asap.
it's a 99 prelude -- is the clutch fluid reservoir easy to get to? is it marked 'clutch fluid'? please help me find it!
i don't want to replace the clutch if it's not necessary..... it seems to be fine once it gets into gear. no noises.
if there is air in the (clutch) line, would the brakes also have trouble? i mean do they share the same hydraulic lines?
if anyone has any experience like this, please help thanks
it's a 99 prelude -- is the clutch fluid reservoir easy to get to? is it marked 'clutch fluid'? please help me find it!
i don't want to replace the clutch if it's not necessary..... it seems to be fine once it gets into gear. no noises.
if there is air in the (clutch) line, would the brakes also have trouble? i mean do they share the same hydraulic lines?
if anyone has any experience like this, please help thanks
Your slave or master clutch cylinder might be bad? I don't know which one makes the pressure.... The reservoir is in the engine bay, it's small about 2-3 times the size of a quarter. It should be labeled something. Check it out first to see if it even has any fluid in it. If it doesn't, then you have a leak somewhere. I know mines leaked where the clutch pedal rod goes into the car/firewall. Check it out.
mine did the same thing about a month ago, no it dosent necessarily mean you have a leak...it could just be the clutch reservoir is either very low, or empty...mine would sink to the floor and be really hard to get in gears. Usually you use like brake fluid and fill it up. then you clutch should regain its stiffness.
thanks to everyone! i love this forum -- just wish the keyboard-screen could help with bleeding the lines!
i'll check the reservoir if i can find it -- i might get lucky and find the fluid level low -- otherwise, since i have only 2 arms/2legs and all connected to the same body, i'll have to surrender the car to mechanix...
thanks again hope i can return the favor someday
i'll check the reservoir if i can find it -- i might get lucky and find the fluid level low -- otherwise, since i have only 2 arms/2legs and all connected to the same body, i'll have to surrender the car to mechanix...
thanks again hope i can return the favor someday
the master and slave cylinders are on the drivers side, right against the firewall. they will say DOT 3 brake fluid on them. make sure they are full. if they are bleed the clutch. if not fill it then bleed the clutch.
the bleed valve is near the front of the car. in the center. you will see it if you look around the exhaust manifold. it is the same concept as bleeding brakes. it may take quite a while. when i changed my clutch i had to use a power bleeder for 15 minutes to get it normal.
the bleed valve is near the front of the car. in the center. you will see it if you look around the exhaust manifold. it is the same concept as bleeding brakes. it may take quite a while. when i changed my clutch i had to use a power bleeder for 15 minutes to get it normal.
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hello again..,. i have checked 2 reservoirs under the hood that mention DOT 4.
One is larger than the other, maybe about the size of a squatty beer can, both are next to the firewall on the driver's side. both are full. i did not see any leaks in the area.
i do not have an assistant to help with bleeding... so i was considering taking it to the shop for service OR purchasing a 'power bleeder' to do it myself........
so i called shop #1 (not the dealer). asked what they would charge to bleed the
clutch... they said that if it needs to be bled, the master-slave cylinders
probably needed to be replaced (something around 300-350?) couldnt tell over the phone .need to take it in for analysis
shop#2 (the DEALER).i asked how much would it cost to replace the master-slave cylinders. about 10hrs -- $700 (plus parts?) and might as well replace the clutch at the same time because the labor is about the same.
i didnt ask the dealer about the bleeding, because the last time i took it in to them -timing belt @ 90K or so- i mentioned the clutch, which was only just 'soft' at the time, not problematic for shifting. they said -- 'well, at 90K it's probably getting old. and it's hydraulic so there's really nothing to adjust' ... ok nevermind...
my questions:
1) does the full reservoir suggest that the master-slave cylinders are ok? i mean
do they fail because of leaking outside of the line or are the 'leaks' internal?
2) is the labor really similar to change m-s cylinders as to replace the clutch?
3) i wonder if the dealer added fluid and air during the service. (about 2 months ago)
4) what about to buy a power bleeder to bleed the line myself? i've seen
one for about $50 online... but would probably buy locally at pepBoys or somewhere
any more ideas.................... ? i'm going to do something tomorrow....
One is larger than the other, maybe about the size of a squatty beer can, both are next to the firewall on the driver's side. both are full. i did not see any leaks in the area.
i do not have an assistant to help with bleeding... so i was considering taking it to the shop for service OR purchasing a 'power bleeder' to do it myself........
so i called shop #1 (not the dealer). asked what they would charge to bleed the
clutch... they said that if it needs to be bled, the master-slave cylinders
probably needed to be replaced (something around 300-350?) couldnt tell over the phone .need to take it in for analysis
shop#2 (the DEALER).i asked how much would it cost to replace the master-slave cylinders. about 10hrs -- $700 (plus parts?) and might as well replace the clutch at the same time because the labor is about the same.
i didnt ask the dealer about the bleeding, because the last time i took it in to them -timing belt @ 90K or so- i mentioned the clutch, which was only just 'soft' at the time, not problematic for shifting. they said -- 'well, at 90K it's probably getting old. and it's hydraulic so there's really nothing to adjust' ... ok nevermind...
my questions:
1) does the full reservoir suggest that the master-slave cylinders are ok? i mean
do they fail because of leaking outside of the line or are the 'leaks' internal?
2) is the labor really similar to change m-s cylinders as to replace the clutch?
3) i wonder if the dealer added fluid and air during the service. (about 2 months ago)
4) what about to buy a power bleeder to bleed the line myself? i've seen
one for about $50 online... but would probably buy locally at pepBoys or somewhere
any more ideas.................... ? i'm going to do something tomorrow....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rlhill »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i didnt ask the dealer about the bleeding, because the last time i took it in to them -timing belt @ 90K or so- i mentioned the clutch, which was only just 'soft' at the time, not problematic for shifting. they said -- 'well, at 90K it's probably getting old. and it's hydraulic so there's really nothing to adjust' ... ok nevermind... </TD></TR></TABLE>
are you saying here that they replaced the clutch when they
changed your timing belt? if so, i would take it to them and tell them
that your clutch if fuc*ed up, maybe they will bleed it for free if
that's the problem.
are you saying here that they replaced the clutch when they
changed your timing belt? if so, i would take it to them and tell them
that your clutch if fuc*ed up, maybe they will bleed it for free if
that's the problem.
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