i'm thinking about putting in a nitrous kit..not sure which one yet but its still a while off...

how long does a bottle usually last before you refill it...like say i go to the track, how many runs am i gonna get in? how much does a bottle cost to fill?

lets just say its a 15lb bottle

also, im trying to do a stealth install, underneath the floor panel in the trunk where the spare tire goes...i need a picture of something like that

thanks!

 

first thing have fun trying to do a stealth install with a 15lb bottle, it's hard enough with a 10.

How long the nitrous last all depends on the shot you are running. A fill normally costs between 3.50 to 4.50 per lb.

 

no..im gonna go small...like a pair of 5's maybe..whoknows

i just asked about the 15 cause isnt that what most kits come with?

 

most kits come standard with a 10 pound bottle. go to team-integra and do a little more research

 

What kind of setup are going to go with? Wet? Dry ? ZEX ? NOS? Venom?

There are so many to choose from.

My theory is, if you're going to do nitrous, you might as well do a wet system. Possibly a system that piggy backs the injectors if possible.

The dry setups, the ones that you drill 6 inches from your TB plate and run the line to there, they are mostly just cooling the charge of the air. Because there is no way that there is an even amount going into Cyl. #4 as there is in Cyl. #1. See what I'm saying ?

It may just be my opinion, I've no real live testing to prove my theory, but, That's just what I believe.

 

all I can say is if your going to do it, do it right.

My friend borrowed the kit I used to have on my firebird and cut corners everywhere. Probably didn't wire it right and ended up burning the hell out of his exhaust valves.

I wrote an artical on the local board about nitrous which could hep you with some more background information.

http://www.slcstreetracing.com...e.asp

And another

http://www.slcstreetracing.com/articles/nos.asp

 

Three years ago I was paying 27-30$ to fill a 10 lb bottle, that was cheap compared to some places. There was a thread here recently and I remmeber seeing as much as $45 to fill a 10 lb bottle

If i can remmeber correctly I could get about 10-11 passed down the track with a 75 shot in my Gsr.

Not that you want my opinon, but I hate nitrous, it's so expensive to keep up. Yeah a $500 Kit is cheap, but ask anyone who has Nos, bottle fills add up and are annoying. If your on a budget I would rather look into piecing together a "Budget Turbo" kit

I spent way to much on my Nos Setup a few years ago, then add refills, and only to blow my Gsr motor after 5k miles on the bottle

 

thanks for the help...pretty informative articles and replies

i was originally gonna put on like a revhard stage 2 turbo kit, get a tuning and call it a day, but its a lot more $$

i still havent entirely made up my mind yet though

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 96integra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks for the help...pretty informative articles and replies

i was originally gonna put on like a revhard stage 2 turbo kit, get a tuning and call it a day, but its a lot more $$

i still havent entirely made up my mind yet though</TD></TR></TABLE>

why dont you sell your car and get a manual one?

 

cause i like my car..already put a lot into it, not as much as others, but its taken me awhile to get the cash together for the things ive done

i just got a job though, 13/hr so we'll see how much i can pull together this summer and see where i head with this

honestly..i'd love a turbo...just so much more $ up front tho

 

My 10lb. bottle lasts about 3-4 minutes of continous usage at 55 shot. Also, many people on HT say wet setup is better than dry, but I don't think so on a Honda. For 75 shot and under, a dry setup is the way to go. You'd think that mixing the fuel and nitrous before the TB in a wet setup would allow for better cylinder distribution, but in reality, it doesn't because fuel is much heavier than nitrous, and it's forced to make a 90 degree turn to get the cylinder 4. As a result, usually cylinders 4 and sometimes 3 run lean.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 96integra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">cause i like my car..already put a lot into it, not as much as others, but its taken me awhile to get the cash together for the things ive done

i just got a job though, 13/hr so we'll see how much i can pull together this summer and see where i head with this

honestly..i'd love a turbo...just so much more $ up front tho</TD></TR></TABLE>

what happened to the ws6? with the "blower"

 

a 15 lb bottle spraying a 75 shot should be good for 10 15sec passes down the strip so if you're quicker than that you should get 1 or 2 more passes out of the bottle. also before you go get your bottle filled again put it in the fridge at home. a cold bottle will hold more nitrous than a warm bottle will.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gsrlkn412s &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">a 15 lb bottle spraying a 75 shot should be good for 10 15sec passes down the strip so if you're quicker than that you should get 1 or 2 more passes out of the bottle. also before you go get your bottle filled again put it in the fridge at home. a cold bottle will hold more nitrous than a warm bottle will.</TD></TR></TABLE>

WTF are you talking about? 75 shot on a 15lb bottle should last nearly 3 minutes. So, say he's running 15 sec per run, that's 12 runs per bottle. Also, nitrous shops heat up the nitrous before refilling in order to increase the pressure. Cold bottle = less pressure

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gsrlkn412s &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...also before you go get your bottle filled again put it in the fridge at home. a cold bottle will hold more nitrous than a warm bottle will.</TD></TR></TABLE>

that sounds like a retarded idea. when the bottle returns to room temperature, the pressure will be higher than it should be in the bottle...

edit: yep, i just realized i'm wrong... a cold bottle will be smaller and hold less gas anyway though.

 

Actualy you'll get more nitrous depends on how they fill it. Some places fill by pressure in which case taking in a frozen bottle will give you more nitrous, cause as you fill them up the bottle gets hotter. And the hotter the bottle the higher the pressure. Some places use a scale in which case it doesn't realy matter.

 

a cold bottle will hold more compressed gas, but as it warms back up, it may over pressurize and blow out the burst disc


i used to play paintball a lot, and during the summer i'd fill the tank early in the monring, when it was 65ish, and then a couple hours later when it was mid 90s..the liquid CO2 would expand and blow the disc

 

ok... i've never had nitrous, but that just doesn't make sense to me. how does a cold bottle (cold = metal shrinks) hold more nitrous? are you sure it's not just that the pressure gauge reads higher because there's actually less volume in the bottle, not because there's more gas inside?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by quikB18B &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Three years ago I was paying 27-30$ to fill a 10 lb bottle, that was cheap compared to some places. There was a thread here recently and I remmeber seeing as much as $45 to fill a 10 lb bottle

If i can remmeber correctly I could get about 10-11 passed down the track with a 75 shot in my Gsr.

Not that you want my opinon, but I hate nitrous, it's so expensive to keep up. Yeah a $500 Kit is cheap, but ask anyone who has Nos, bottle fills add up and are annoying. If your on a budget I would rather look into piecing together a "Budget Turbo" kit

I spent way to much on my Nos Setup a few years ago, then add refills, and only to blow my Gsr motor after 5k miles on the bottle </TD></TR></TABLE>

I went through the same path a couple years ago. You'll like it, but refilling it is a bitch.
BTW: I have a set for sale: FS: NOS brand dry nitrous system. 50shots. Includes everything to install. EXTRA: bottle warmer. $250 pick up or trade for integra parts and turbo parts.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bay_707 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

what happened to the ws6? with the "blower"</TD></TR></TABLE>

**** you bay...seriously..you're a ****

thought my moms friend was selling his...he changed his mine, so im just gonna keep this and have fun with it...its off getting painted right now

but thanks for remembering cocksmack

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zomart &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok... i've never had nitrous, but that just doesn't make sense to me. how does a cold bottle (cold = metal shrinks) hold more nitrous? are you sure it's not just that the pressure gauge reads higher because there's actually less volume in the bottle, not because there's more gas inside?</TD></TR></TABLE>

heres how it works..putting the bottle in the fridge does not shrink the bottle...maybe by a few micrometers but nothing enough to change the interior volume. the idea behind a cold bottle is this..even though it wont work to well...NO2 is a compressed gas, compressed so much it turns into an extremely cold liquid...if that liquid is transferred to a cold container, it will stay condensed for longer, allowing a larger amount of liquid to enter the bottle[if the bottle was warm, the supercooled liquid would expand quicker and decondense into a gas, taking up volume in the cylinder and reducing the amount of liquid that can be transferred]

the downside, is either way the bottle will warm, it needs to, the gas expands and its quite possible that the burst disc on the bottle will blow, and there goes 40 bucks worth of nitrous

 

i hope where u live isnt hot. according to the location of the bottle, i assume ur just gonna leave the thing in ur car and not turn it off with the **** when u park your car? the bottle is gonna explode and the pressurized atmosphere created inside the car due to the exploding bottle will shatter your windows ( if not the sharpnels from the container). just be sure to take it out on really hot days, and close the **** when you u park for extended period of time.

just be careful

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 96integra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">cause i like my car..already put a lot into it, not as much as others, but its taken me awhile to get the cash together for the things ive done

i just got a job though, 13/hr so we'll see how much i can pull together this summer and see where i head with this

honestly..i'd love a turbo...just so much more $ up front tho</TD></TR></TABLE>
why not just get a si, gsr, or itr tranny and do a swap?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 96integra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

**** you bay...seriously..you're a ****

thought my moms friend was selling his...he changed his mine, so im just gonna keep this and have fun with it...its off getting painted right now

but thanks for remembering cocksmack

heres how it works..putting the bottle in the fridge does not shrink the bottle...maybe by a few micrometers but nothing enough to change the interior volume. the idea behind a cold bottle is this..even though it wont work to well...NO2 is a compressed gas, compressed so much it turns into an extremely cold liquid...if that liquid is transferred to a cold container, it will stay condensed for longer, allowing a larger amount of liquid to enter the bottle[if the bottle was warm, the supercooled liquid would expand quicker and decondense into a gas, taking up volume in the cylinder and reducing the amount of liquid that can be transferred]

the downside, is either way the bottle will warm, it needs to, the gas expands and its quite possible that the burst disc on the bottle will blow, and there goes 40 bucks worth of nitrous</TD></TR></TABLE>



apply this to N2O. at room temp, it is a gas. under a certain pressure, the temp goes up and vice versa. and under a certain pressure, its state of property changes from a liquid to gas. so bascially, u increase the temperature of the bottle, to up the pressure so the liquid becomes more gaseous. more pressure, the faster the nitrous flows. and when the nitrous is released, the pressure is lowered, therefore lowering temperature.

PV = nRT, p1v1 = p2v2, p1/T1 = p2/T2..... play with those numbers
R = (8.314 pka*m^3)/(mole*temp), n = moles (44 grams of N2O = 1 mole)

i am a nerd

 

i remember back in the day when i thought early 70's vettes were the **** and i would only drive american cars, 15lb was the standard. i think that ended with the 90s. wait a sec. early 70's vettes are still the ****, too bad no1 does them right anymore. i remember the first time i saw nitrous in a car was a tubbed 72 vette, blown 427. roasted them thru all 4 gears while spraying. he was moving but u couldnt see anything 'cept smoke. anyways, back to imports, hiding a 10lb bottle is still pretty hard if you want to mount it at the correct angle.

 

I ran NOS for a few years both the wet & dry system, and only ran a 50 shot on both.
I would put my bottle in a deep frezer for a few days before going to the track, REASON for a cold-frozen bottle for me is the gas flows quicker into the cold bottle, if your bottle is room temp or hotter then the gas has to be "pumped" into the bottle and that takes longer and also the gas heats up too when its compressed.
As far as getting more than 10 lb into the 10lb bottle.. never done it... theres already enough preasure in the bottle already why chance an extra pound when it could blow the safty and empty the $40 worth of gas?