I have a D16Y7, so the throttle body mouth opens upwards. A while ago, I got a SRI intake. Reason being the strut bar will press down the stock air box.

After I installed the intake, the metal pipe seems a bit high and is still hitting/rubbing the strut bar so I chop off about 1 to 2 inches off the end. Then the pipe miraculously fits over the throttle body mouth and that's when I realize the original pipe opening was slighly bent, and it was only connected by that rubber ring which cause the pipe to dangling as if it was sitting on a spring.

But it was too late, I already chopped it off. So I then cut the rubber ring a little to work with the curve SRI pipe. I then tighted the rubber to the pipe using the metal ring. But the rubber isn't long enough (and is rather thick), so in section (if you can picture it), it is rubber ---> metal pipe ---> TB mouth. But after a while (like a week of driving) the pipe will move up about an inch. And when it moves up, the pipe will hit the strut bar again. I will hear that knocking noise when my car idals. My current solution to that is to push it down, turn it left and right to make a tight fit and keep driving.

I have tried to tighten the metal ring but I don't think its force is strong enough to bend that metal tube to fit around the TB mouth? Any solutions to such issue? Do I really need that rubber thingy outside of intake pipe?

Thanks

 

So the pipe is connected to the TB without a rubber connector? Sorry, I'm a little confused. I had to wake up early, and my mind isn't right. Anyway, if so, make sure it's secured to the TB with a rubber connector, and tighten the clamps really well. Also, are you using any mounting brackets? If not, that can cause the piping to experience excess movement.

You make fabricate your own brackets out of strips of metal that they have at Home Depot; there are even pieces that have holes, so you don't have to drill any to get it to mount it to the chassis. If you can weld, do what AEM does and weld a piece of metal to the piping, and make sure the other end goes to a pre-existing place for an airbox bolt. That way is always better than the universal brackets most el cheapo intakes have, but some type of bracket is better than nothing in your case. (That is, if you don't already have one.)

 

I will try my best to explain the current situation.

You know the rubber connector? The one that's provided for the TB. It is thicker than the rubber connector that joins the SRI and the CAI extension. I cut that rubber connector on an angle because it was sticking out too much due to my cut SRI pipe. The rubber connector is on the pipe end, but it doesn't really do any work as it doesn't extend beyond the SRI pipe, it is flush with the end of it. I would think the top of the rubber connector is tighten to the pipe via a metal ring, and the bottom of it is tighten to the TB mouth via a metal ring. But in my case, the top and the bottom of the rubber are all tighten to the metal pipe. So really, it is just the pipe sitting over the TB mouth. I personally don't think the rubber connector is "connecting" to anything other then the pipe itself. Maybe that's why it becomes loose after a while.

I have made a little bracket. What I have is a regular metal strip bought from local Home Depot, I then curved it and the bottom of it is bolted to the existing grounding wire below the distributor cap, while the other end is bent and join close to the air filter with another metal ring. Because the plate is curved, it acts like a spring. But at least it holds the pipe in place even when it becomes loose. Before that thing was made, the pipe will become loose and fall off completely. When that happens, the only things that are preventing it from coming off is the strut bar block it, and the rubber tube that’s join to the engine vent.

So it is better to secure the pipe somewhere along the body via a metal plate to the chassis then secure it at the TB mouth? (since it will always be loose)


Thanks

 

Lot of hassle for an intake and a strut bar... I'd sell 'em both and go on with my life.

 

What I also wish to know is, can you just attach the pipe to the TB mouth without the use of that rubber connector? Since it is not connecting anything.

 

well, if you just slip the intake over the throttle body, how will you seal it to not let dirt get sucked in... and what will keep it relatively rigid, yet FLEXIBLE. Remember, in most cases the intake attaches to the chassis in some way, and the one end attaches to the t-body. The t-body is rigidly mounted to the engine, which moves independently of the chassis. So if you mount the intake to the t-body rigidly, and you mount the other end of the pipe to the chassis rigidly... and the engine moves in relation to the chassis. What happens to the intake? Something breaks. I would have to agree with the other dude.... cheap SRI and strut bar.... choose one and live with your choice.

 

esp given your stock susp and stock tires, I can see no need for you to use a strut tower bar. the SRI... I guess I can understand you like the sound.

 

The SRI was never intented in the first place. I went with the strut bar first because the guy told me it would fit. Then I saw that thing pushes down the air filter box so I had to do something about it.

Since it was a temp solution, so I just wanted something that will not touch the strut bar.

That's why I wish there is a way to connect the pipe to the TB firmly so I can get rid of that thin metal plate.

 

well, I have an idea, but I have to look at your car to see if it would work. basically take that rubber peice and throw it in the spare parts pile. Measure your t-body, and measure your intake pipe. Take the difference and go down to a industrial place and get two 0-rings that will fit on the throttle body and fill in the space between the t-body and intake pipe. Then, make two short vertical slits in the intake pipe and slip it over the rubber o-rings on your throttle body. Use a good quality hose clamp or t-bolt to hold it all together. Make a bracket for the intake that will attach it to the engine, not the chassis. This way the SRI moves with the engine and has no additional stress on it. That ought to do it.

 

I am a bit lost on your tech B...

I sorta know, but not sure how to put these together.