the other nite the girlfriend was driving the teg and she left the lights on again....
so we pop started it and not it more or less runs like ****...
every time i come up to a stoplight or whatever and press in the clutch to brake the car's rpm will drop all the way down to 0 then back up possibly pop starting it on its own. but other times when it hits 0 the battery light will flash and the car will just stay on.. and other times it dies completely.

so i turned up the idle screw and took her for a little run and seemed to work ok but later on i drove again and it started up again, so i unplugged my ecu and to no avail still pulling this **** on me.

so i was wondering if it could be such a low powered battery or a 1/2 dead alternator or something....
any suggestions at all would be greatly apperciated
thanks in advance
dusty

 

what kinda battery is it and how old is it? have the battery fully charged and try again. it takes a while for the battery to become fully charged after its been fully drained. if its a diehard i work at sears and theyll charge/check it for you. usually when people come in i do it regardless. most likely just the battery because it doesnt have enough charge and the whole car is running off the alternator and the battery isnt supporting it at all. its normal when the battery is discharged. worst comes to worst you gotta pay 59.99 and get a new battery. preferbally a diehard because they got good warranties.

 

it is the original honda battery from 98 and it has been fully drained a couple of times in the past couple weeks

 

bump

 

more than likely the battery is no good. from what i hear, each time you drain the battery it doesnt work as well as before. you can use a multimeter to check it or take it to autozone like places. you can also disconnect the battery and drive around and see if the symptoms are the same.

 

just take it to any local auto parts store and they should be able to check it for you

 

and what if the battery is good, it just needs a good charge where i wouldn't be drawing power from it. any thing else that you can think of?

 

bump for lunch

 

hehe...go for a optimal battery...their exspensive but well worth it......

 

Load test your battery. Just cause it says 14.4 on a meter does not mean it up to the task of running your car.

 

so every 1 thinks it is the battery

no other ideas

how do you test the battery w/ a load, you mean tap the throttle while having a meter on it ?

 

Load testing removes amps from a battery much like starting an engine would. A load tester can be purchased at most auto parts stores. Some battery companies label their battery with the amp load for testing. This number is usually 1/2 of the CCA rating. For instance, a 500CCA battery would load test at 250 amps for 15 seconds. A load test can only be performed if the battery is near or at full charge.
Basicly it test how much stress your battery is able to with stand.
You can also check this yourself by seeing what the battery voltage goes to under a cranking load. Should not dip below 9 to 9.5 volts. Use a Multimeter.

Acura should load test your battery free. It will tell you if its good or bad.

Easy place to start.

 

thanks i will try that tonite after work

 

Replace the battery first. When mine has died in the past, it's exhibited the exact same characteristics that you've described. A battery is an easy, relatively inexpensive fix, and the OEM battery from '98 is about due.

If that is not a sufficient fix, then the likely culprit is the alternator. If that were the case, the easiest thing to do is pull the alternator and take it to an alternator/starter shop, where it can be rewound (internally re-worked). This work usually comes with some sort of warranty is fairly inexpensive ($40, maybe).

good luck

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ndustryalGSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Replace the battery first. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I do agree that this is probably the source of the problem but I would still test it. It is free and it will save you from throwing money away if from some reason battery is ok. I am sure you will find that it fails the load test though. Good luck.

 

thanks guys my roomates work at tires plus and i am putting my wheels and tires on and the winter ones are comming off so when i am there tonite i will have them test the battery for me thanks for all the help
i will keep you posted if they battery and alternator are ok so i can get ideas for the next step if they are ok which i doubt they are

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dustrag &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks guys my roomates work at tires plus and i am putting my wheels and tires on and the winter ones are comming off so when i am there tonite i will have them test the battery for me thanks for all the help
i will keep you posted if they battery and alternator are ok so i can get ideas for the next step if they are ok which i doubt they are</TD></TR></TABLE>

okay good, its june tho, why do you still have winter tires?

 

b/c i wanted to try some new tires this season. and it has been rainy and crappy in wisconsin so i left them on they are all season tires that i use for winter.. and i got new rims so i figured i need new tires 2

 

all season are not winter tires. all season are for summer winter rain etc. winter tires are for winter only. the treads are shaped specially to dig into snow.

driving normally on them will wear them out prematurely.
it should be free to have them converted back over to your normal tires wherever you bought the snow tires from.

 

sounds like the battery has a bad cell in it. if the battery was completely drained and you push started it, it probably fucked up one of the cells in the batt. my solution: NEW BATTERY.