DIY: tint
n00b..
How hard can it be?
Spray some soap/water/tint spray crap, lay the tint over, make sure you lay down the correct side. Cut unnessary areas. make it flat with a scrapper/flat edge, then let it sit for a 2 days (do not roll down windows!)
How hard can it be?
Spray some soap/water/tint spray crap, lay the tint over, make sure you lay down the correct side. Cut unnessary areas. make it flat with a scrapper/flat edge, then let it sit for a 2 days (do not roll down windows!)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NrG »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">n00b..
How hard can it be?
Spray some soap/water/tint spray crap, lay the tint over, make sure you lay down the correct side. Cut unnessary areas. make it flat with a scrapper/flat edge, then let it sit for a 2 days (do not roll down windows!)</TD></TR></TABLE>
like an idiot ^^^ that was what i thought. it is harder tham seem. that is why tinters charge soo much for labor.. ^^^ u got any expertise in it. or u just mouthing off like a know it-all fool.
i'm not a noob.. i lost my old password
i used baby shampoo.. (what indicated)
cut everything lined it up correctly. when i scraped it some spots started getting creased up (maybe low-end tint). plus it was hard because it was a hatch rear window.. all the **** in the way. it came out ok but the crease bugged me, so i trashed it. i expected to get it smooth like the pros did it.. i got a quote last time. it was 225 or so.. but an amazing job.
just sharing my bad expirence thats all..
How hard can it be?
Spray some soap/water/tint spray crap, lay the tint over, make sure you lay down the correct side. Cut unnessary areas. make it flat with a scrapper/flat edge, then let it sit for a 2 days (do not roll down windows!)</TD></TR></TABLE>
like an idiot ^^^ that was what i thought. it is harder tham seem. that is why tinters charge soo much for labor.. ^^^ u got any expertise in it. or u just mouthing off like a know it-all fool.
i'm not a noob.. i lost my old password
i used baby shampoo.. (what indicated)
cut everything lined it up correctly. when i scraped it some spots started getting creased up (maybe low-end tint). plus it was hard because it was a hatch rear window.. all the **** in the way. it came out ok but the crease bugged me, so i trashed it. i expected to get it smooth like the pros did it.. i got a quote last time. it was 225 or so.. but an amazing job.
just sharing my bad expirence thats all..
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^^ this is tech moron. dont post pic if dont know how.
these guys did not think it was easy either https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=448108
these guys did not think it was easy either https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=448108
If there is one thing I've learned on DIY over the years it's never attempt window tinting. I've tried it thinking the same thing, and I've seen many of my friends attempt DIY window tinting. No one has ever completed a successful job out of anyone I know.
window tinting is impossible if you have curved windows. flat windows are easy but curved windows you need to go over it with a heat gun. you cut the tint to size on the outside of the window first. put it ont he inside squeegee all the water out and let sit . it is pretty hard
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92civicsi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">window tinting is impossible if you have curved windows. flat windows are easy but curved windows you need to go over it with a heat gun. you cut the tint to size on the outside of the window first. put it ont he inside squeegee all the water out and let sit . it is pretty hard</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ok on curved glass you have to use a heat gun.
(yes I know it was a pain I figured hey just put it on cut and wala. but you have to first mold the tint to the window before you do so if not then you will get creases and also folds.)
you first clean off the glass on both sides
then you takes the soapy water and spray the hell out of the OUTSIDE window. Now lay your tint with the tint side facing the glass and the glue side(with the film still on it) and cut according to what you need. Now after you cut it take your squeege and run it down the center horziontaly and let it sit on the glass. Now you take your heat gun and slowly run it thru the creases and while your doing that take your squeege and make it flat. Now go inside your car and wet the crap out of it. then take off the glue side plastic and paste it on the window. the water will allow you to move the tint to fit. now you should take the squeege and take all the air out. dont forget to go slow and to not crease the tint. Do this to all curved glass and you should have an almost professional tint job.
I did this on saturday while a guy who owns a tint business taught me.. after I did it I realized how easy it was.. (well after I over heated and almost melted the tint the first time I did the rear of my hatch)
Ok on curved glass you have to use a heat gun.
(yes I know it was a pain I figured hey just put it on cut and wala. but you have to first mold the tint to the window before you do so if not then you will get creases and also folds.)
you first clean off the glass on both sides
then you takes the soapy water and spray the hell out of the OUTSIDE window. Now lay your tint with the tint side facing the glass and the glue side(with the film still on it) and cut according to what you need. Now after you cut it take your squeege and run it down the center horziontaly and let it sit on the glass. Now you take your heat gun and slowly run it thru the creases and while your doing that take your squeege and make it flat. Now go inside your car and wet the crap out of it. then take off the glue side plastic and paste it on the window. the water will allow you to move the tint to fit. now you should take the squeege and take all the air out. dont forget to go slow and to not crease the tint. Do this to all curved glass and you should have an almost professional tint job.
I did this on saturday while a guy who owns a tint business taught me.. after I did it I realized how easy it was.. (well after I over heated and almost melted the tint the first time I did the rear of my hatch)
Yeah, I did the same thing. Tinting takes a lot of time though.
I did it myself and it's pretty good. Not as good as a professional, but not bad. After tinting a few cars, here's the key points I think are necessary to know:
- clean your windows both inside and out, first with windex, then with soap and water
- side windows can be one piece, but rear windows MUST be done in 3"-4"strips
- when cutting the strips for the rear window, cut along the lines of your rear defroster; this hides the seams when you put the tint on
- be really careful not to crinkle the tint, cuz it shows up later as blemishes
- use the soap/water solution the instruction tell you to
- a soapy wet window allows you to moves the tint around freely
- squeegee from the center of one SIDE and move to the other side; NOT from center out. This will help keep it flat and reduce chances for bubbles
- for windows that roll down, AFTER the tint is all dried for a few days, use clear nail polish to seal the edges of the tint
I did it myself and it's pretty good. Not as good as a professional, but not bad. After tinting a few cars, here's the key points I think are necessary to know:
- clean your windows both inside and out, first with windex, then with soap and water
- side windows can be one piece, but rear windows MUST be done in 3"-4"strips
- when cutting the strips for the rear window, cut along the lines of your rear defroster; this hides the seams when you put the tint on
- be really careful not to crinkle the tint, cuz it shows up later as blemishes
- use the soap/water solution the instruction tell you to
- a soapy wet window allows you to moves the tint around freely
- squeegee from the center of one SIDE and move to the other side; NOT from center out. This will help keep it flat and reduce chances for bubbles
- for windows that roll down, AFTER the tint is all dried for a few days, use clear nail polish to seal the edges of the tint
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chimchimm5 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
- side windows can be one piece, but rear windows MUST be done in 3"-4"strips
</TD></TR></TABLE>
my whole back window was one piece...
- side windows can be one piece, but rear windows MUST be done in 3"-4"strips
</TD></TR></TABLE>
my whole back window was one piece...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by igo4bmx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
my whole back window was one piece...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Mine as well.
my whole back window was one piece...
</TD></TR></TABLE>Mine as well.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by igo4bmx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
my whole back window was one piece...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
only SOME cars require a few strips.
my whole back window was one piece...
</TD></TR></TABLE>only SOME cars require a few strips.
I do standard and custom (layered graffics) tint... I have seen so many guys come in with their DIY tint jobs... then they pay me to fix it all the time, so without experience... take it to someone who knows and stick with a quality film.
thanks for the tips guys.. but from my expierencew i will never do it again.. i took charge of the rear first. the sides i probably could have done a good job.
by the way what is a good price for professional install.???
by the way what is a good price for professional install.???
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....ok i see


