hey you guys need some advice here bout my 97 ls, basically i decide to do forced induction which we all know that LS has a low compression so i choose greddy td05h turbo kit and intercooler. my question is what type of clucth should i put and what should i do on my internals and all the stuff that i need to do to make my car fast!

 

b18b is a great torque platform with a turbo its just the toppin of the cake....if u keep boost level low say 6.5-8 psi i think stock internals....are fine depending on fuel mangement you can exceed that and be safe.....

with a greddy kit a stock clutch is sufficient but if its goin out upgrade to a clutchmaster stage 2 something more gripy and can handle more power than stock.......

my friend with a bone stock ls with a custom kit super 60 t3 turbo at 12psi stock made 272/256 with hondata and 440 injectors.....pretty impressive but he cracked a sleeve 3 months later.......

so keep in mind a moderate level of boost and you be pretty quick....out of the hole all the way to redline.....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmshowcase97 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey you guys need some advice here bout my 97 ls, basically i decide to do forced induction which we all know that LS has a low compression so i choose greddy td05h turbo kit and intercooler. my question is what type of clucth should i put and what should i do on my internals and all the stuff that i need to do to make my car fast!</TD></TR></TABLE>

try getting a GSR head. vtec the damn thing already. you get better high end plus you have the low compression ratio of the LS.

now as for the internals get it welded and change up your internals. i recomend toda racing for that. this will help you with your low boost problems giving you a stronger block for higher boost aplications.

go with whatever turbo you think is appropriate for you application. i personally like turbonetics, and you can get a good kit at XS enigineering for 2-3 g.

but its useless to have a TC and a fixed up internal without tunning it. go with the hondata s100 cheap and reliable. or if going highboost (s100 is better equiped for cars under 10psi) ask hondata to recomend you an ECU.

go mugen with the clutch. im pretty sure that hondas official racing dvelopment engineers wont let you down on bringing down that sortof power to the wheels.

you might also want to get an LSD tranny. but that can wait. i personally dont kow too many good LSD's seeing as im new to the import scene as well. but trust me when i say you'll need it. oh and if your gong drag try to shorten you gears.

just my $.02

 

but you think act full kit clucth will be fine?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmshowcase97 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but you think act full kit clucth will be fine?</TD></TR></TABLE>

perfectly fine. with clutches it all depends on how much power your putting down and how long your gonna use the damn thing. just remember you get what you pay for.

 

how about my fuel management? which is im planning to go with e-manage

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmshowcase97 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how about my fuel management? which is im planning to go with e-manage</TD></TR></TABLE>

im not quite too sure about e-manage but who know do you your homework on it.

asfar as engine and fuel management systems are concerned again my first choice is hondata, if you want you can go AEM get an EMS, or a stand alone fuel manangemen system, or you can go with an AFC from APEXi.

again forgive me if im ignorant im still new to this.

 

did you get the greddy kit because it is smog legal? because its not really that great of a power-getter if thats what youre lookin for. if you upgrade anything with the greddy kit, its not legal anymore. so no point in getting it. youre better off getting a drag3 or revhard kit. if tuning it what youre lookin into, get hondata. you dont have to build your motor unless you plan on boosting more than 9psi. a good strong motor should handle anything up to 7-9 psi.

 

if u dont want to do internals just yet, get some turbo eclipse injectors(very cheap) upgrade your fuel pump, pick up a FPR and your golden for up to 10psi worry free. anything more than that i suggest u sleeve your block. and u dont need a vtec head so fu.ck what ya heard haha just get some crower cams. they give u an agressive cam profile throughout the whole power band aka its like running vtec all the time. i swear by them they are great. ls turbo is definataly a good choice beacase the options are endless. If u want a good clutch u dont have to spend. just pick up an exedy stage 2. exedy and act are the same but exedy cost less. just a tip. u might want to upgrade your igniton also. if ur planning on running more than 10psi contact some pros. its not worth the risk if ur not experienced enough.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by d0twinx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if u dont want to do internals just yet, get some turbo eclipse injectors(very cheap) upgrade your fuel pump, pick up a FPR and your golden for up to 10psi worry free. anything more than that i suggest u sleeve your block. and u dont need a vtec head so fu.ck what ya heard haha just get some crower cams. they give u an agressive cam profile throughout the whole power band aka its like running vtec all the time. i swear by them they are great. ls turbo is definataly a good choice beacase the options are endless. If u want a good clutch u dont have to spend. just pick up an exedy stage 2. exedy and act are the same but exedy cost less. just a tip. u might want to upgrade your igniton also. if ur planning on running more than 10psi contact some pros. its not worth the risk if ur not experienced enough. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Uh sounds good but far from true there is no such thing as a natural aspirated motor aftermarketed turbo charged being worry free. Next there are a many people running way more than 10psi on stock sleeves (even D series) making high numbers so that statement doesnt sound to feesible to me either but if your going with a ls I had a friend of mine with the 18g setup fmu the works running uber which in my opinion is much better than the emanage and in the eigth he was cutting 860's stock motor if that helps you any, also ran the motor for two years like that beating on it till the ringlands went. (After two years of pure carnage )

He's on the tech ask him about it yourself his name is notsocivic hit him up ask him about his old setup simple and to the point.


Modified by juggernaut at 8:42 PM 6/1/2004

 

if you don't know anything about turboing your LS, your best bet right now is to read up about it. if you want to go ahead and turbo it, don't listen to people who have hardly any posts(no offense). if you just can't help it and must turbo your ls, your best bet is to run an FMU setup which will allow you to just bolt on your turbo setup and run, taking away all the tuning issues that come along with all the hacks, uberdata, hondata, EMS, and other management systems. run this setup for awhile which is good to about 11 psi(which is kinda pushing it depending on motor condition), read more about fuel management, upgrades, and how a turbo system actually works and what makes power and doesn't, then make your final decisions.

as for going ls/vtec, if you want to keep it simple, do not even bother with slapping on a vtec head. that's just more wiring and another oil leak to worry about.

as for clutchs, myself and i'm sure many others would recommend you either getting a 6 puck or something similar. anything less than that and you'll surely burn it out within a few months. clutchmaster's stage 4 is a great clutch. if you want to drive your car everyday and still have great gripping power, try getting a sprung 6/4 puck. those work great but sometimes people experience slight chatters or noise with these for odd reasons.

anyway, i'm talking too much...just do some research before you start building. if your motor is still in good condition, just leave it and turbo it while saving up for sleeves, rods, pistons, bolts, cams, etc, my buddy whom i helped pieced together a turbo kit for and install it ran 12.99 at a shitty track on stock ls motor/gsr tranny/cx eg hatch. of course this was on slicks.


oh and another thing, you're fine with stock ignition unless you're making over 350whp. many people are running stock ignition and making over 400whp it's all in the plug gapping.