if all else is built, when will the sleeves give out?

 

they can take at least 14psi........its all already forged iron to begin with...F's dont have that shitty aluminum high compression motors....

 

On a stock f engine I believe they can take like 6-8 psi. On a built motor I would guess up to 14-16psi

 

........accordfreak...........

its all about the shape the motor is in. if its sitting on 2xx,xxx miles, good luck with 6-8+

 

so only 15 psi, huh. i guess if somones goal was 400 whp they would have to resleeve.

im not to fimilar w/f's, im asking for someone eles...im an h man myself

 

a complete overhaul would definantly be worth it.....

just for some additional info, 400whp is a BIG goal


member accordfreak was running 14psi on stock internals w/ bolt ons, and hit about 280hp...that was untill he got sideswiped and totaled

400 would definantly require tranny and drivetrain work as well

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fw190bvi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">a complete overhaul would definantly be worth it.....

just for some additional info, 400whp is a BIG goal


member accordfreak was running 14psi on stock internals w/ bolt ons, and hit about 280hp...that was untill he got sideswiped and totaled

400 would definantly require tranny and drivetrain work as well
</TD></TR></TABLE>

ya we were seeing how much we could get out of fully built but stock sleeves. not worth it imo, but he was wondering.

 

just curious, what were his 1/4times with that 280hp?

 

Technically the stock f22 blocks are not sleeved.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boonacka &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just curious, what were his 1/4times with that 280hp?</TD></TR></TABLE>
should be good for a low 13 or so

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JakeIsCool &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Technically the stock f22 blocks are not sleeved. </TD></TR></TABLE>

technically this is true, but you can "sleeve" them when you replace pistons

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fw190bvi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">........accordfreak...........

its all about the shape the motor is in. if its sitting on 2xx,xxx miles, good luck with 6-8+</TD></TR></TABLE>

You said it yourself...it's all about the 'health' of the motor...mileage is just a number. An engine's health has absolutely nothing to do with how many miles are on it. My accord has 248k (too old by your standards) and I'm still returning near perfect compression tests.

Mileage = overrated. You drive a Honda, not a GM.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Justin Klemgold &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Mileage = overrated. You drive a Honda, not a GM.</TD></TR></TABLE>

gm=owned

 

the ring lands give out at 14 psi but if they were aftermarket the accord would ahve no problem with 17-18

 

question when you say your gonna sleeve the f22 i understand that but when you sleeve it do you bore out the cylinders alittle more so that when you sleeve it the ORIGINAL PISTONS will still fit back in or do you just sleeve it and get smaller pistons that are forged or something? just wondering. any help would be good help.

 

i had absolutely NO PROBLEMS with mine. ALL STOCK internals. even a stock headgasket. if compression and leak down tests are good then you're good to go..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by accordfreak &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i had absolutely NO PROBLEMS with mine. ALL STOCK internals. even a stock headgasket. if compression and leak down tests are good then you're good to go.. </TD></TR></TABLE>

accord turbo master....

theres no love for the F block.....its all iron + low compression, so its grenade proof y00...!!

 

My stock sleeve went out at 10 psi with a 11:1 cr. I crack my sleeve and my cylinder wall on #1. I ran 12 psi with a 8.5:1 cr no problems.

 

So, when it comes down to it, the F22 can actually take some "punishment" ? When I get my car, I want to swap the engine. I heard about the H22...but if the F22 can handle high hp, I may just build the F22 and slap on a turbo. Can it handle around 250 - 300 whp if built right?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Frook &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So, when it comes down to it, the F22 can actually take some "punishment" ? When I get my car, I want to swap the engine. I heard about the H22...but if the F22 can handle high hp, I may just build the F22 and slap on a turbo. Can it handle around 250 - 300 whp if built right?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Accordfreak was running 260whp and 280wtq on a stock block....so to answer your question, if its built right...it will probably produce more than 300

 

do you think that it is necessary to replace the stock rods if you want to run over 14 psi. Or I guess my question really is which one will fail first under high boost, the block or the rods. I want to turbo a f22b1 and was wondering if it was a waste of money to change the rods without sleeving the block. Would changing the rods alone allow me to run more boost reliably. If so what company make rods for the f22b1 motor.

 

@14psi depending on your fuel u might be able to get away from having to change ur rods. however u must change ur piston cuz ur rings wont last long. On my stock f22b1 turbo lasted about 6 months or so before my rings went out. I change my rods and piston ans left the stock sleeve and it ran good up to able 10 - 12 psi with a mf2 computer. Changing the rods will gave u a little more reliably, however your stock rings will go first. Anyways, if am using crower rods for my setup. I actually used a set of h22 rods, at the time that i got my rod there where no appication for my car, but im sure they have them now.

 

my old set up with a very shittly fuel set up lasted like 7 months on a 180k mile motor...now i am building mine up and hope to make this 30k mile motor hit the area accordfreak did b4 it pops...then it is rods and pistons and i will probly post it.... then shoot for the 350 range....


resleaving is deff not ness if u are only shooting for the 400 range...just post it and have a very good set up and your will be fine

not many people have made that much power on a f series...but if it is done right it will be very possible....and probly reliable...to a extent

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blackfrohatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
not many people have made that much power on a f series...but if it is done right it will be very possible</TD></TR></TABLE>

this reminds me of the debate over the d-series as well...i think turboing the f and d series(as opposed to b and h) is an excellent idea, lower comp. and parts are abundant and cheap(blocks are cheap too ), and it makes people say "you did that on a stock engine???"
but if your going to throw a lot of money at it to seriously build it up, that kinda ruins the whole idea of why i think they are great turbo motors...but i think that range is extremely possible. at 7psi i was probly at 190 to the wheels, untuned. its very realistic

 

[QUOTE=NXAccordTO4B I actually used a set of h22 rods, at the time that i got my rod there where no appication for my car, but im sure they have them now.

[/QUOTE]

what kind of pistons you running w/those rods?