Just installed a built h22a4 type s block on my jdm h22a head. I bought hondata and I was going to go get it tuned this weekend. I wasnt alowwed to get on it at all since I had no fuel management in it so I couldnt tell if anything was wrong. It was running fine and there ws no check engine light. Then when we hooked the lab top to the hondata and tried street tuning the vtec wouldnt work. All the vtec wires are ran correctly, power to all sides of wires, no check engine lights, plenty of oil, it just doesnt kick in. It's weird we tried looken at a bunch of stuff. We thought maybe the selenoid but the check engine light isnt on and the lab top isn't reading any codes neither. Anyone have anyclues at all what the heck it could be. Sucks cant get it tuned and I gotta stay out of boost. Thanks.

 

I'm probly gonna borrow my buddies selenoid and put it on to see if that is the problem.

 

Good luck with that.

 

h22a4 is not a type-S block.


What's your oil pressure? probably too low

 

That was me on Lonnie's name. I don't have an oil pressure gage, but we check the oil level on the dip stick several times and it was fine.

 

Oil level does not = oil pressure.

And again..it's nota type-s block.it's a plain old block...so do you have an ATTS tranny with all that junk on it?

 

Not to sound dumb but I dont know what you mean by atts. I still have my jdm h22a tranny.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by h22Hatchy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not to sound dumb but I dont know what you mean by atts. I still have my jdm h22a tranny.</TD></TR></TABLE>

nevermind...it's obvious you have a plain jane USDM A4 block becuase a JDM H22a tranny wil bolt to it...I hope you didn't pay a lot of money for the block

 

Well actually we had to fabricate the interemediate shaft to fit because the mounting is different on the jdm then the usdm. Well the block isnt stock. It it is bored out to 89mm, sleeved has 9:1 pistons and rods. Something also was done by removing the balance shaft and putting some block plates so that I can rev higher. I paid $2,000 plus my stock block, but my cylinder walls were all torn up from boost anyways.

 

ohh yaa and that was installed and they fixed my oil leaks and fixed some codes that I was reading.

 

Bump we need to get this problem fixed

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by h22Hatchy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well actually we had to fabricate the interemediate shaft to fit because the mounting is different on the jdm then the usdm. Well the block isnt stock. It it is bored out to 89mm, sleeved has 9:1 pistons and rods. Something also was done by removing the balance shaft and putting some block plates so that I can rev higher. I paid $2,000 plus my stock block, but my cylinder walls were all torn up from boost anyways. </TD></TR></TABLE>

that makes sense. it's just a sleeved type-SH block. Anyways since the sleeves and pistons etc..it doesn't matter there's nothing OEM about it...and it's not JDM for the last time.

Anyways I already told you to check your oil pressure..although if you have hondata...it probably ignores oil pressure anyway

and don't bump this damn post you just made it today

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by h22Hatchy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just installed a built h22a4 type s block on my jdm h22a head. </TD></TR></TABLE>

u mean head on block right?

 

I guess I will try to check the oil pressure. Thanks. And I never said the block was jdm. It is USDM. I said the head and tranny are; (h22a). And yes they are jdm I have the papers to prove it.

 

Have patience Obi-Wan. The young Pad-O-Wan is (Don't correct me on the spelling) just learning and anxious, Looking for knowledgable persons like yourself.

But I concur. Yes, please make sure there is pressure getting to the solenoid. Maybe when you put on the head, you blocked the main oil passage from the block that goes to the head and runs VTEC. A little oil orifice that sits between cylinders 2 and 3 and is on the firewall side of the engine.

 

h22Hatchy: What do you plan on using the hatch for? 2.2+turbo will produce such excessive torque that you will break traction all the time in such a light car, This thing is going to be hard to control even with drag radials at low pressure!

 

Make sure that you have good grounds off the motor, and battery. When I put my K20A2 in my Civic, we mounted the battery in the trunk. We didnt have a very good ground off of the battery which prevented me from going into VTEC. It took us an entire day of going over the motor to discover that it was just a bad ground. No check engine lights, no nothing, just a bad connection. I dont know if that will help you out, but good luck. Sounds like it will be a fun ride when its running right.

 

yesterday me and Lonnie took off my selenoid to check it out. It was getting oil to it. It seemed like it was in well working order. But I have not checked to see the oil pressure. I will try and do that today. Thank you for the help guys. Ill keep you posted. And yes the hb is for turbo. It is already h22 turbo right now. I am trying to get this problem fixed so that I can tune it on my Hondata. Yes traction will definately be a major problem. Thats when it will start getting interesting. :-D

 

Ohh yaa and to answer your question I will probly mainley be using the car at the track. It is as well my everyday driver too. I have already gotten into enough trouble with the cops on the street so I am gonna try keepen it on the track from now on.

 

Reminded by the oil pressure, I am having my head taken off again. The block I have now has an a oil valve that controls the amount of oil going into the head. Well one thing that was different with my old JDM block was, That it had no valve. It is just an open hole. Hopefully that is the problem. The valve is going to be removed to and then the motor will be reasembled to see if that is the problem. That would definatley lower the oil pressure to the head.

 

dude. the open hole for ther oil presssure on the block located near the knock sensor when your head is off should be open, its closed on a non v tec motor but has a tiny tiny pee pee hole in it that can be taken off to do the h23 v tec which u said u have a h22a4, not a h23... the reason why u r not getting v tec when your in v tec is b.c your motor is prob cold and since u have your balance shaft out all your pressure will be on the bottom of the block since the shaft isnt in. the oil shoots back down toward the bottom end which if u put a manual oil pressure gauge. it will read zero at idel and at 70-90 mph it will read 2-30 psi which when u try to get into v tec it doesnt go and if it does go half way... u gonna love that grinding sound of your cam in mid v tec mmmm sounds so good it will blow up.. its my opnion b.c that is what i have done to my first h22a build up with a welded oil pump that blocked off teh balance shaft back in 1999... after i stuff those big metal ***** shaft back in the block .. i got my pressure at 17-90 psi at idel and up to 90 psi when driving .. in final gear .. say u are going 80 mph.. your oil pressure should read 74-80 psi...... try stuffing those 2 metal ****** back in and leave the belt off if u got the crank reblance.. mine works fine for 4 years

 

ive heard of a dent in the oil pan can cause a problem...

try this as a getto test. run 12v switch in the car to the soloniod, when you get on it, hit the button sending 12v tot he soloniod. see if it turns on

 

The guy that I bought the block off had it in his car and it ran fine. Vtec worked perfect. So that can't be it. And we always try to see if it kicks in when it is warm. We tried the thing with the sylenoid too. The sylenoid is working fine. Its weird. Hope fully we will find out if it is that valve today. Ill keep it posted.

 

You do have this thing on the road when you are testing for VTEC, yes? I've never heard it officially, but from all of my experience, it won't engage without speed.

 

Yes we are testing it on the road. vtec will not engage if the speedometer is not reading speed/movement