ZC's w/Teg ECU
I can't find the post now, but I swear I saw a post that mentioned how their ZC motor with a Teg ECU tended to run rich & that they used the fuel pressure regulator to lean it out... (or something like this) I've got the same issue with my ZC - my Civic is white & I'm continually cleaning up carbon deposits from the back bumper around my tailpipe.
What is the best way to fix this? (Aside from doing a ZDyne or similar ECU conversion .... I don't have that much cash yet...) How do you use the fuel pressure regulator to lean out the mixture?
TIA
Eric
What is the best way to fix this? (Aside from doing a ZDyne or similar ECU conversion .... I don't have that much cash yet...) How do you use the fuel pressure regulator to lean out the mixture?
TIA
Eric
well i ahd that problem before i got my ZC ecu. but to use the FPR...if you are running rich you just lower your fuel pressure. if your running rich you are gettign to much fuel, the fpr will lower it to have a better mixture....hth
I can't find the post now, but I swear I saw a post that mentioned how their ZC motor with a Teg ECU tended to run rich & that they used the fuel pressure regulator to lean it out... (or something like this) I've got the same issue with my ZC - my Civic is white & I'm continually cleaning up carbon deposits from the back bumper around my tailpipe.
What is the best way to fix this? (Aside from doing a ZDyne or similar ECU conversion .... I don't have that much cash yet...) How do you use the fuel pressure regulator to lean out the mixture?
TIA
Eric
What is the best way to fix this? (Aside from doing a ZDyne or similar ECU conversion .... I don't have that much cash yet...) How do you use the fuel pressure regulator to lean out the mixture?
TIA
Eric
I live in Oxnard...where did you get your ZC swap done?
Hey there, I think you might be referring to one of my previous posts (not for sure though). I do have a ZC w/teg ecu that runs rich. I installed a B&M fuel pressure regulator with a NOS fuel pressure gauge. Don't buy the B&M fuel pressure gauge. Almost everyone I know has had problems with it. Spend the extra money, you won't regret it.
Anyway, you can use the FPR to make sure you have a good air/fuel ratio. I've got mine set at 38-39. I think stock ZC fuel pressure is 40-41. Make sure you don't go too low cause then you'll start running lean and you definitely don't want that.
You'll have to do some guess and check work to determine what your fuel pressure should be set at. It would be ideal to tune it on a dyno, but thats expensive. I use my air/fuel ratio gauge to get a general idea of whether its running rich or lean. Read the gauge at full throttle, not at idle.
I can't guarantee that this is the best way to do it, but its worked for me so far. If anyone has any suggestions let me know.
Thanks everyone...hopes this helps
[Modified by 606zc, 5:09 AM 11/8/2001]
Anyway, you can use the FPR to make sure you have a good air/fuel ratio. I've got mine set at 38-39. I think stock ZC fuel pressure is 40-41. Make sure you don't go too low cause then you'll start running lean and you definitely don't want that.
You'll have to do some guess and check work to determine what your fuel pressure should be set at. It would be ideal to tune it on a dyno, but thats expensive. I use my air/fuel ratio gauge to get a general idea of whether its running rich or lean. Read the gauge at full throttle, not at idle.
I can't guarantee that this is the best way to do it, but its worked for me so far. If anyone has any suggestions let me know.
Thanks everyone...hopes this helps
[Modified by 606zc, 5:09 AM 11/8/2001]
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Cool, thanks for the replies. I guess I'll look into doing the fuel pressure regulator & gauge setup.
I actually have two Teg ECU's (one seems to have gotten fried by a loose ground wire - it started going into limp mode with no codes, the other one that I'm using does it's own thing - the Engine Light comes on if I maintain around 2k rpms, then goes back out once the motor drops down to idle & it doesn't toss any codes, nor does it seem to go into limp mode when the Light is on) and one 'ZC' ECU (got it from Watanabe in San Diego with the motor, too bad they gave me an Automatic ECU - I don't think any JDM ZC's came with an Auto, but I'm not sure...)
So I don't think I need yet another ECU - although it'd be nice to get this one to not do this weird sh*t with the Light.
For Rob - I actually did the swap down in SD before I moved here with two buddies. I would hardly say that I'm now an expert on the swap, but it really wasn't too bad. (I'll say two things - one - take out the damn radiator - one of my bro's said leave the damn thing in there and we almost holed it trying to drop the motor in. It's <U>MUCH</U> easier without it in there. & two - you'll probably have to lose your power steering - we couldn't get it in on mine & had to rig the fluid reservoir so that the rack has fluid to lube it)
Any just because ... hopefully I'll get some pics of my car after it comes back from the shop - it's getting color matched & having all the small dings repaired right now... I still don't have rims, but I'm hoping that it'll be worthy of photographing after it comes back.
Eric
I actually have two Teg ECU's (one seems to have gotten fried by a loose ground wire - it started going into limp mode with no codes, the other one that I'm using does it's own thing - the Engine Light comes on if I maintain around 2k rpms, then goes back out once the motor drops down to idle & it doesn't toss any codes, nor does it seem to go into limp mode when the Light is on) and one 'ZC' ECU (got it from Watanabe in San Diego with the motor, too bad they gave me an Automatic ECU - I don't think any JDM ZC's came with an Auto, but I'm not sure...)
So I don't think I need yet another ECU - although it'd be nice to get this one to not do this weird sh*t with the Light.
For Rob - I actually did the swap down in SD before I moved here with two buddies. I would hardly say that I'm now an expert on the swap, but it really wasn't too bad. (I'll say two things - one - take out the damn radiator - one of my bro's said leave the damn thing in there and we almost holed it trying to drop the motor in. It's <U>MUCH</U> easier without it in there. & two - you'll probably have to lose your power steering - we couldn't get it in on mine & had to rig the fluid reservoir so that the rack has fluid to lube it)
Any just because ... hopefully I'll get some pics of my car after it comes back from the shop - it's getting color matched & having all the small dings repaired right now... I still don't have rims, but I'm hoping that it'll be worthy of photographing after it comes back.
Eric
Eg6, thats some awesome info you posted! I knew that my car was running a little better with its lower FP. Now I can see some proof that it actually increases hp. This dyno run was done on a ZC w/teg ecu right? Just wanted to make sure. Thanks for the info!
yeah and the zdyne gold is 900 bux. it better be great for that price.
i didn't get silver. it's the conversion ecu. to zc specs. with custom **** i added. but whatever the hell it is, it SUCKS. it messes my distributor/ignitor up BAD. definitely NOT worth 400 dollars that's for sure. i'll take my 75 dolla integra ecu anyday over that extra thick drink coaster.
-Seth
Just ITR cams <third smallest made(b16a, GSR)>, ITR intake manifold, jg throttle body, GReddy exhaust, and a good bit of tuning...
No biggie for CTR Horsepower territory
No biggie for CTR Horsepower territory
...my b16a, all stock, just these 3x upgrades:
Mugen chipped ecu, rsr exhaust, tanabe 4-2-1 header, still untuned had cam gears ready to go but sold the whole setup...
Mugen chipped ecu, rsr exhaust, tanabe 4-2-1 header, still untuned had cam gears ready to go but sold the whole setup...
Hmm, thanks for the dyno's - sure makes it an easy decision to put in the regulator and gauge. I wonder what kinda fuel pressure I'm running now...
Eric
Eric
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