Like the title states, I have continuity at my battery lead wiring....where/what do I do from here?

My car is 100% completely bone stock (right now), I haven't touched any wiring.

I've been having problems with my battery running down overnight so I finally got around to testing my connections and now that I have, I don't know where to go from here.

A friend said 'just start testing everything from the battery leads back'...which makes sense, but I'm not sure I know how exactly to to so?

TIA

 

Open it in a new window and zoom

 

Thanks for the helpful picture, but I checked for continuity with the battery out....it was already dead.

I tried a brand new battery and it was completely drained overnight, so when I pulled it out I checked for continuity between the two battery terminal leads, and there was continuity.

What I need to do now is find out how far the continuity goes so I can try to pinpoint where the short is. I'm just not sure exactly how to do so.

 

just plug your tester to the negative side of stuff.. preferably right at the switch/relay.

like try the negative wires on all the lights, relays and all the grounds you can find like the radio, engine. try the ignition switch first, i had an odd problem with it where it would turn to off position but a little energy would get through. it wasn't enought to actually run anything but it would drain batteries.

im sure there might be an easier way to this, but you'll end up having to narrow down the leak anyways. so i'd start small and do dashboard items first.

good luck... random shorts are a biatch

 

Take your negative battery cable off and put the Voltmeter between the neg bat post and the neg bat cable and see how much voltage is there. If it is real low like .03v than you are cool but if it is like .1v than you know something is taking that power. Unplug all the fuses you can until the # goes back down than you know what circuit the draining is coming from.

That picture posted above came from my Toyota school books, here is the big version...

 

that sucks.

If it was me i would fix it the wrong way. Put a kill swich on the positive battery wire so it cant drain.

Im a lazy cheap *** though

-Eric

 

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The picture says to check for amperage . Fourthgen thanks for posting the full pic.

 

yah attach the volt meter between the neg bat cable (+ lead on volt meter) and the neg post on the battery and start pullin 1 fuse at a time starting w/ the dash fuse box. when you see no voltage inspect that circuit.

you will most likely be lookin for breaks in wires that are constantly powered @ a switch or relay. In some cases like the Radios memory wire.

 

Thank you very much for the help guys.

I should have looked closer at the original picture; The blown up one posted later helps me out.

I'm going out now to start testing at the fuse box like you guys say.

Thank you very much. I really appreciate the help.

 

After going through both fuseboxes (underhood and in the cabin) only one isolated the load.

It was the 60amp battery fuse in the engine bay. When I removed this, the continuity between the terminals ceased.

Which doesn't really tell me much, I don't think?