Yesterday afternoon, I started putting a turbo kit on my buddies 2000 Si, all we have to do today is finish putting on the downpipe(which is a huge pain), and put on one part of the charge piping.

Heres the basics of the setup:
stock b16 motor and tranny
max rev manifold
garrett t3/t04 turbo
tial wastegate
turbonetics boost controller
3" downpipe
3"intake w/ k&n filter
spearco front mount
greddy type-s
vortech 12:1 fmu

6 psi for now

thats pretty much it... now for a few questions.

What plugs should I put in? On my c1 I used 7e's, would these be good for the b16 too? Gap size?
What should I do about timing? I was told to retard it a LITTLE from the dist just to be safe, but i'm not too sure about this.
What should I do about check vavles/missing link? Right now, we dont have anything in yet, but I'm assuming it'll be throwing a code after we get it running and everything.

This is my first time dealing with an FMU setup(I've had hondata in the past), but my friend(owner of the car), cant afford a standalone, or even uberdata(all the supplies that is.....i know the software is free! ). Hopefully in a couple months he'll upgrade, but for now it'll just be an FMU.

Any other suggestions(besides getting rid of the FMU)?

Thanks everyone and if you have any threads that might be helpfuly post them up, I did a search but still had some unawnsered questions

 

bump so i can get a little help

 

I don't own a turbo b16, but I can answer a few questions.

For plugs, 7e's will be fine. It's what most people that I have spoken with with boosted B-series of all types run. I know my BKR7E's came pre-gapped to .035"...you may want to take it down a few thousandths and start from there.

Not sure about the timing. Since he's running an FMU [and nothing to control timing], I guess pulling a little from the distributor will help. Tell him to eat ramen noodles for the next month and buy a burner and a wideband and get uberdata!

You will need a check valve of some kind for the map...positive pressure on the sensor with no EMS will not do.

 

Thanks for the reply dax.

I was going to put a missing link on but i wont be able to get that for a few days. what do you think i should do in the mean time? go to an "aquarium" type of store and get a check valve? i feel like a total noobie, but if i DO get a check valve from the store, how, and where do i hook it up to?

thanks for your help

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by THE_HX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks for the reply dax.

I was going to put a missing link on but i wont be able to get that for a few days. what do you think i should do in the mean time? go to an "aquarium" type of store and get a check valve? i feel like a total noobie, but if i DO get a check valve from the store, how, and where do i hook it up to?

thanks for your help </TD></TR></TABLE>

Bump for an interesting question. I have Hondata so I don't need check valves but would like to know nonetheless.

 

If you use a check valve [or 5, ] stick them in line with the vacuum line going to the MAP, and have the direction of flow [usually indicated by arrow] pointing toward the manifold, and away from the MAP.

 

awesome, thanks a ton dax.